Gardening Tips And Guide

Keep Critters out

2011-05-31T21:24:00.000-07:00

Your garden is no place for critters. You may enjoy a leisurely stroll with the family cat, but you won't be amused with his leavings. Dogs can trample a seed-bed faster than anything short of the neighbor's children, especially if you are out walking with the cat. Wild animals from deer to raccoon can do even more damage, because they are intentionally after your produce.

The most effective way to keep wayward wildlife from your garden is to erect a fence. Fencing materials are certainly not cheap, but a well-constructed fence will serve for years. Woven wire, poultry netting, or welded wire will keep out most neighborhood pets and pests. The bottom of the wire should be buried below soil level if rabbits are a problem. Foil persistent gophers by lining planting beds with fine mesh fencing. A fence up to 8 feet high is necessary to prevent deer from jumping over. Leave approximately the top 18 inches of the wire unattached to any support. This wobbly fence discourages such climbing critters as raccoon, porcupine, and opossum.

In lieu of expensive fencing you may first want to try some of the many intriguing animal repellents available. Forget the store-bought solutions and whip up your own thrifty alternatives. Here are a few suggestions:

® Hair clippings from the local barbershop scattered around the garden scare off critters that fear the ominous odor of humans. A few articles of really smelly dirty laundry, left about the garden at night will also deter many wild animals, including deer, raccoons, and rabbits.

® A sulfurous odor can be created by cracking a few eggs and letting set until pungent. The strong scent repels deer.

® Dried blood meal scattered around plants keeps away deer, ground squirrels, rabbits, raccoons, and woodchucks.

® Hot peppers, garlic, vinegar, and water mixed with a squirt of dishsoap and pureed in a blender deters large nibblers as well as insect pests from tasting any garden fare on which it has been sprayed.
® Ammonia. Ironically, the nasty smell of rags soaked in ammonia repels skunks and rats.

® Beer. Set out a shallow tray of beer to lure and drown slugs. To be truly frugal, use cheap beer.

® Repellent plants. Gopher spurge, (Euphorbia lathyrus) repels gophers, with varying degrees of success. Castor oil plant, which is highly toxic, also repels them. Both have some effectiveness against moles. Plant garlic, onions, or ornamental alliums to deter woodchucks. Plant garden rue to discourage cats.

Protect against Birds

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For the most part birds are very beneficial to the garden. They are wonderful insect predators, especially in the spring when they need a supply of protein to feed their young. But hungry birds also can take a toll on freshly sown seeds, tender seedlings and luscious fruits and berries. You may need one or more of the following controls:

® Netting is an important barrier to birds and some small animals. It is an absolute necessity with expensive berry crops, such as blueberries and strawberries. To keep greedy beaks away from berries, support netting on a framework several inches from the plants. Peeled poles or scrap lumber make inexpensive, rusticlooking frames. Handled carefully, netting will last indefinitely.

® Plastic berry baskets, panty hose, cheesecloth, salvaged window screening, and other no-cost finds also work to create handy bird deterrents. Fasten any of these to a wire tomato cage for an individual plant protector.

® Wire or fishing line, stretched between row markers over newly planted seeds, makes an inexpensive bird repellent. As birds approach for a landing they are snagged by theunseen lines and quickly retreat to safer ground.

® Scarecrows are cute but ineffective. Don't spend a cent on one.

Encourage Beneficial Organisms

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The use of beneficial organisms in the home garden is hardly new. If you think of Adam and Eve as the original garden pests, look at the effectiveness of one snake. Actually, snakes are wonderful, free rodenticides. They patrol for ground-level mice, shrews, bugs, and slugs. In return they need an accessible water source, maybe a nice, flat rock on which to sun themselves, and not to be run over by a lawn mower.

Bats are another fine addition to any garden. Bats consume many times their own weight of flying insects over the course of the gardening season. Persuade them to roost near your garden by putting in a little bat condo. Commercially made bat houses are available, or construct one yourself.

Birds are valuable bug-eaters. They will reward your thoughtfulness with years of dedicated service. Provide them with a bird bath, some cover in the form of bushes or trees, a small house or two, and perhaps a free meal every now and then.

Toads are underappreciated assets in the garden; they guzzle bugs daily. Encourage their presence with a damp, shady spot for them to hide in during hot, dry weather. A board propped up over a puddle is toad heaven.

Predatory and parasitic insects prey on other bugs for free, and unless you garden in a vacuum, they usually come with the garden. Be careful not to annihilate them with broad-spectrum chemical pesticides.

Beneficial organisms, from barely visible mites to 6-inch-tall praying mantises, are available to work in your garden. You can purchase them, but your money would be better spent encouraging existing, native populations. The trouble with many store-bought bugs is they are disloyal, and will probably leave.

Plant flowering herbs, such as thymes, mints, rosemary, sage, and dill for beneficial adult insects to eat. Or entice them by interplanting your crops with daisies, petunias, cosmos, nasturtiums, marigolds, and sunflowers. Provide a water source. The lingering dew on plant leaves is often sufficient; the constant moisture provided by drip irrigation is ideal. Most important, don't spray pesticides. Welcome the beneficials that occur naturally in your garden.

Disposing of Pesticides

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Many states set up regular hazardous waste pick-up stations at designated times and places. Always dispose of unused pesticides, as well as paints, solvents, and other chemicals, at designated stations. Most disposal sites provide an exchange service on site. If you need a pesticide or other chemical, you can pick up someone else's castoff for free. Contact your local state department that handles hazardous waste disposal for details of procedures in your area.

Use Pesticides Conservatively

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Sometimes a barrier isn't the answer. You wouldn't want to drape a cover over a rose bush or shimmy up an apple tree with a bolt of cheesecloth. There are situations when you need to spray a pesticide.

Many plants look or produce much better if kept on a regular spray schedule. Fruit trees in particular yield more fruit if maintained this way. This should be an important consideration in the decision to plant home fruit trees.

What you spray depends on several factors, one of which is your budget. Chemical pesticides are expensive in more ways than one. Research has determined toxins, once commonly used in the garden, can cause a range of ills from birth defects to cancers. Accidental ingestion by pets and children occurs every year, with tragic results. Toxins also wipe out beneficial insects, such as bees and ladybugs. And misapplication of chemical pesticides often results in plant damage.

As with the misuse of chemical fertilizers, the biggest problem home gardeners have with pesticides is over-application. Always follow label instructions to the letter. These are not mere recommendations, they are lawit is illegal to misuse pesticides.

Each product lists what insects it is effective against and on which plants it is safe to use. A general pesticide with a wide range of applications, such as Orthene or diazinon, will handle most problems of home gardeners.

Organic pesticides, such as botanically derived rotenone, pyre-thrum, ryania, and sabadilla are good substitutes for environmentally concerned gardeners. They pose less threat of environmental damage because they break down quickly, and will not leave any long-term residues. Other examples of non-toxic pesticides are horticultural oil sprays that coat and suffocate small bugs such as scale, and diatomaceous earth, which kills bugs at or beneath ground level when worked into the soil. Many organic pesticides, unfortunately, kill indiscriminately, wiping out pests and beneficial organisms alike.

Some of the most promising pest-control products are ones that cause diseasegenerating pest-specific disease organisms that spring to life like sea monkeys when mixed with water. They only harm the bug for which they are intended. Some examples include several forms of the bacteria Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), marketed under various brand names and effective at battling caterpillars and Colorado potato beetles; Nosema locustae, sold as Grasshopper Attack, which is a grasshopper disease that prevents successive generations; and Bacillus popilliae, or milky spore disease, that wipes out Japanese beetles.

Physically preventing bugs from touching your plants

2011-04-30T20:02:00.000-07:00

One of the best methods to prevent insect damage is physically preventing bugs from touching plants. Several methods work well depending on the plant and the insect. All methods mentioned are very effective and reasonably inexpensive when done properly.
Row covers are sheets of spun-bonded polypropylene that can be draped over food crops to eliminate insect problems. They are lightweight enough to drop directly onto most crops, or you can create a frame for the covering by bending PVC pipe or bamboo sticks. (Cheap tip: You can even grow useful bamboo stakes yourself.) The fabric stands between the bug and its meal. It allows most available sunlight and water to pass through freely and protects from wind, hail, slight frost, and windborne weed seeds, as well as bugs, birds, and small animals.

It is critical to cover the crops early, before bugs get to them, which is when planting or transplanting them. A sprinkling of inexpensive diazinon or diatomaceous earth raked into the soil will kill any current soil-dwelling inhabitants. This is important for direct seeded melons, a special favorite of cutworms. Leave enough slack in the fabric to allow for the eventual growth of the plants, and anchor the fabric along the edges with dirt or planks. This is very important, because not only might it blow away but also the idea is to prevent bugs from getting to the plant, and they crawl through the smallest spaces. Lift the cover occasionally to monitor a plant's progress.

Covers are most convenient for plants that will not flower for harvest, such as carrots or broccoli. Covers will work for plants that flower, such as cucumbers, as long as you remove the covers in time for pollination to occur.

Treat these fabric covers with respect to get your money's worth. Work cautiously around them, a careless swing of the hoe will tear the fabric. Never walk on them, always go around. Don't drive stakes through them as anchors. Fabric anchored by stakes will not always keep out bugs anyway, and the stakes will cause rips. Cut the fabric down to a size you can handle easily. You will run less risk of damaging the fabric while you are working with it. Above all else, fold or roll up fabric covers at the end of the season and store them. Don't just drop them in a pile on the floor of the garden shed, since mice find them irresistible for winter housing.
and organic protection, use a stem collar. Stiff paper or cardboard are often recommended, but one of the best and cheapest substitutes I have found is a plastic drinking straw. Salvage used straws, and cut them into 1 1/2-inch long pieces. Slit the pieces up one side, pull the plastic apart and fit around the stem of each transplant. Push the plastic down into the soil, and you have a plastic barrier no cutworm can chomp or climb.

Stem collars protect tender transplants from cutworm damage. Cutworms are underground caterpillar-like bugs. They will devastate beans, broccoli, cantaloupe, and a vast array of other plants with equal zeal. They are especially prevalent in new gardens freshly dug from sod or areas filled with weeds. A dash of diazinon or diatomaceous earth will eliminate those present at application. But for continuing

Rotate Crops

2011-03-31T10:31:00.000-07:00

Many diseases and soilborne insects that attack plants remain in the soil even after you harvest the crop. They wait there to reinfest susceptible plants. If you plant the same crop or a closely related one in that site a disease or insect will probably attack the new planting. Prevent this needless loss by rotating your crops each year. The practice costs nothing and could save a lot.

Crop rotation requires only a little planning. If you plant tomatoes in one bed this year, then don't plant tomatoes or a related crop in the same bed for the next two years. If possible, it is best to let at least three years pass before planting where the same or related crop grew before.

Integrate and Interplant

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It is the nature of disease organisms and pests to take the easiest route. What could be easier than moving down a row of your favorite host plants and attacking one after the other of them? Organic gardeners have known for generations a way to confound many pests, especially those that prefer one particular crop over others, and it doesn't cost a cent.

Interplanting mixing and mingling different species of plants in a garden bordereffectively confounds many types of pests. It slows the progression of diseases when the plant next to an infected one is not susceptible to the disease-causing organism. For pests, the turbulent scene of mixed textures, colors, and odors, jams their plant-seeking radar.

Weed out the Competition

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The first line of defense is to kick the competition when it's down. Don't allow weeds to get a foothold. Not only are they unsightly, weeds are real enemies of any gardener. They rob the soil of water and nutrients meant for cultivated plants. Many harbor diseases or serve as alternate hosts for pests. If allowed to grow, they may shade plants from sunlight, block air circulation around foliage, or crowd out crops entirely.

Rather than battle established weeds and the problems they create, get them before they get you. One tactic is to spray a pre-emergent herbicide, which kills weeds before they emerge. Another weed combatant is a heavy, water-permeable fabric that acts as a weed mat, laid out between landscape plants. It physically blocks weeds from sprouting. It's not cheap, but the time and money you save over other forms of fighting weeds may make it a good choice for your garden. A similar tactic is to put down a thick layer of mulch.

Young weeds are easy to scrape away with a hoe. Cultivate carefully around tender, young plants to avoid damaging roots. Use a scuffle hoe or toothed-wheeled weeder to tear out weeds while they are still small. When all else fails, get down on your knees and yank up weeds by their roots. It's good exercise and a well-weeded patch leaves any gardener with a real sense of accomplishment.

A Healthy Environment

2011-02-28T17:56:00.000-08:00

So much of the information already discussed contributes to your plants' overall health. The best site, proper planting, and transplanting, using resistant varieties, adequate watering, drainage, and nutritional support all help keep plants in optimum condition. Healthy plants have an edge. They are less susceptible to physical stress, attack by disease, or infestation of pests. In fact, studies show insects recognize and prefer ailing plants.

The best way to manage your garden is to keep a watchful eye on plants. Take time to notice any which may be particularly susceptible to problems. Watch for puddling after rainthis signals poor drainage which could suffocate roots. Look for unusual growth patterns, spots on leaves or stems, curling leaves, or anything that looks out of the ordinary. Glance around the plants for any evidence of pests, but realize that unless they are causing actual damage you may not need to take any action.

Make sure plants are not overcrowded; occasionally thin or divide them as necessary. This is especially important for good air circulation around perennials and shrubs. Damp, stagnant air trapped near foliage often leads to disease.

Animal droppings for compost

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Many gardeners buy compost starters to get a pile fired up. These are basically high-nitrogen products that may or may not work, depending on what else is in your pile. Fresh green weeds, with a little soil clinging to their roots, or a shovelful of soil or compost, tossed at intervals into the pile will suffice. But for a great, cheap pile activator, try alfalfa. Toss in handfuls from bales (old or rained-on bales are the cheapest) or use an alfalfa meal product. Horse feed, rabbit food pellets, even some brands of cat litter, are almost pure alfalfa meal.

Pets, except dogs and cats, can contribute significantly to the nitrogen content of a compost pile, some will even do the work of turning
If you live in an area where it is possible, and you like animals, keep a pet rabbit or some chickens. Rabbit waste, collected in a bucket beneath the hutch, is high in nitrogen, a fact attested to by the urea odor. But emptied routinely into the compost pile, you avoid the odor, while adding its riches to the pile.
Chickens are even better than bunnies. Toss your compost materials into an enclosed chicken run and let them turn it all into a homogenized, highly nutritious blend. Every few weeks rake out the run and add to the compost pile. Chickens will also produce fresh eggs for breakfast, and they love to eat garden bugs!

Ready, Set, Compost!

2011-02-28T17:48:00.000-08:00

You can make composting as easy and cheap as that leaf-dropping tree. All you need are the ingredients and as much time as you are willing to devote to the project.

For the sake of appearances, or ease of handling, you may wish to enclose the pile in a bin. My favorite siding for this job is a 10- to 12 1/2-foot length of 48-inch-wide hardware cloth, 1/2- by 1-inch mesh. It is sturdy enough to be freestanding, forms a circle of perfect dimensions for composting, and won't leak any small pieces of the pile. Bend over a few of the wires on one edge to form hooks to attach it to the other edge in a cylinder. It's cheap, easy to use, lasts forever, and stores almost anywhere. Lumber scraps and chicken wire, salvaged concrete blocks, or bales of straw arranged together will also serve the purpose.

The dimensions of the pile affect how quickly it breaks down. Research has determined that the pile must be at least 3 feet high by 3 feet across in order to have enough mass to retain the heat generated in composting. As the microbes work, temperatures can reach 140°F inside the pile. These high temperatures kill weed seeds and disease organisms. Piles about 4 feet by 4 feet will work fine, but piles much larger than 5 feet around take a lot of work to keep actively composting. Larger

piles require constant turning to keep oxygen supplied to those busy microbes.

There are no hard and fast rules for building a compost pile. Gardeners generally recommend layering nitrogen materials and carbon materials with a bit of soil, with finished compost or activator sprinkled throughout the pile as it is built. The first time you turn the pile this neat arrangement is shot. The most convenient way to compost is to toss in whatever is available at the moment. Weeds go in when you pull them, soil, and all. Toss in eggshells, coffee grounds, and melon rinds after breakfast. Throw cornstalks on the pile at the end of summer.

You can add many items whole to the compost pile, and they will degrade fine. But larger items, such as cornstalks, hedge trimmings, and spent broccoli plants, will break down much more quickly if chopped into smaller pieces first. When they are cut into pieces there is much more surface area on which the microbes can work. Reduce large pieces by running over a shallow pile of them with a lawn mower, hacking with an ax, or throwing them in a chipper/shredder.

Keep the pile moist as you add materials to it. An occasional sprinkling with the garden hose provides the microbes with water they need to survive. Don't let piles get dripping wet, however, as precious plant nutrients will leach out. Cover your pile during rainy weather or if it is within sprinkler range.

Turning the pile provides aerobic conditions for you and the pile. You get the exercise, and the pile gets a fresh supply of oxygen for those hard-working microbes. If using a bin, disassemble it, grab a fork, and start working. Turn the outsides of the old pile into the center so they will be exposed to microbial action. Sprinkle the pile with water intermittently as you turn it. The more frequently you turn the pile, the more quickly the compost will decompose.

What Does It Take to Make Compost?

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The good news is that anybody can make compost. Actually, compost will make itself without anybody. Consider a maple tree near a fence line. Each year it sheds its leaves, and some of those leaves are blown against the fence where they pile up. In time, the bottom layer of those leaves is no longer recognizable as leaves, but transformed into a dark, sweet-smelling, crumbly soil.
All organic matter rots. You can speed up the process by combining different types of matter, ventilating the mix to add oxygen, and keeping it moist. When you control the circumstances, the process speeds up considerably. You can make compost in weeks, not years.

In terms of composting, gardeners consider organic matter primarily a carbon-based material or a nitrogen-based material. Microbes burn approximately one part of nitrogen for every twenty-five parts of carbon they digest. So you need at least one part of nitrogen material for every twenty-five parts of carbon material. More nitrogen material is fine if you have it. Materials high in nitrogen, such as alfalfa meal, blood meal, or urea, act as pile activators by jump-starting the microbes into action. Which materials are nitrogen and which are carbon? In general the easiest way to tell is that materials higher in nitrogen are green and those higher in carbon are brown. Other ingredients add phosphorus, potassium, and trace minerals. Egg shells, wood ashes, banana skins, melon rinds, orange peels, stale bread, apple peels, potato skins, pea pods, and tea leaves are great for composting.

There are a few things that, although they are organic matter, do not belong in a garden compost pile. Leave the following out of the compost pile:

• Weeds that have gone to seed. The seeds may survive.
• Obviously diseased or insect-infested material.
• Any meat, grease, or fat. It stinks and attracts vermin.
• Cat and dog feces, which may transfer parasites to the garden.
• Grass clippings or weeds that have been treated with weed killers. Chemicals may persist and poison the garden.
• Pine needles or large branches. They don't harm the pile but take years to decompose.

Why Compost?

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Let's answer this question not only from a frugal point of view, but from that of plant health and a healthy global environment as well. Yard and garden waste account for 17 percent of the trash that finds its way into our landfills. Kitchen waste makes up another 8 percent. Combined, kitchen and garden waste account for one quarter of all the garbage we throw out. By composting, you save money used to dispose of waste, including bags and cans, as well as your time spent collecting it. And the environment also wins. You also get the world's best free fertilizer, compost. Not a bad return.

What makes compost so great? It is very rich in nutrients derived from plant and animal matter. Unlike many store-bought soil amendments, it contains trace elements. Compost is rich in humus, and you remember that great stuff.
The process of composting helps purify the end result by killing many seeds and harmful organisms present in the raw ingredients. It's the closest thing gardeners have to spinning straw (and weeds and manure and eggshells and more!) into gold.

How to Fertilize Frugally

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The method of application depends on the type of fertilizer. Sprinkle granules around the base of plants, scratch into the soil, and water thoroughly to dissolve. Shovel a layer of compost or manure over the soil at the base of the plants, and scratch in with a hoe. This method is called side-dressing.

You can apply some fertilizers, including compost and manure, in liquid solution. Apply liquid fertilizers either to the soil or leaves. This is called foliar feeding. Plants can absorb nutrients in solution through their leaves as well as their roots. In fact, they absorb them more quickly this way. Apply these products through a sprayer or dissolve in a watering can and apply by hand. The second option is cheaper, but takes longer.

Is it possible, you may ask, to apply compost or manure as a liquid? The answer is, yes, if you brew a batch of fabulous, free ''tea." Scoop some compost or manure into a bagtry using an old pillowcase, old pantyhose, gunnysack, flour sack, or any bag made of porous fabric. Tie off the top and set in a 5-gallon bucket. Use larger containers if you need more fertilizer. Fill the bucket with water to the top of the bag and let it sit for a day or two. Nutrients from the compost or manure leach into the water, which you then use to water your garden or to foliar feed.

For lawns, a spreader broadcasts fertilizer evenly over the surface of the grass, liquid fertilizer applicators that attach to your hose are also available. Either one is a fair investment. Fertilize woody landscape plants by broadcasting the product throughout the lawn and just outside the drip line. If landscape plants are growing through the lawn, however, punch holes with a soil probe or soil auger attached to an electric drill, and put the fertilizer into the holes. This prevents burning the grass with an overdose of nitrogen. Make the holes 1 to 2 inches across and about 8 inches deep, spaced about 2 feet apart. Avoid placing them close to tree trunks as this process could damage roots.

Organic or Synthetic Fertilizers

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A common misconception is that synthetic fertilizers are better than organic. Another misunderstanding is that organic is better than synthetic. You can make political or environmental arguments for synthetic or organic fertilizer, but the plants can't tell the difference as long as the nutrients are available. However, don't forget the many benefits of adding humus to your soil, which only organic amendments can supply. Brand labels mean nothing to plants. It's the fertilizer analysis that countsthe list of three, sometimes four, numbers listed on the bag. They stand for the percentage of nitrogen (designated by the international chemical symbol N), phosphorus (P), potassium (K), and when present, sulfur (S), in the product, in that order. As mentioned in Chapter 1, these are the major elements plants need (except sulfur, which is a secondary element). Trace elements are also necessary, but manufacturers may or may not list them on labels. Organic fertilizers are much more likely to include these than manufacturers of chemical formulas.

Plants can only use nutrients that have been reduced to the molecular form. Chemical fertilizers work so fast because they have already been processed into the molecular form, whereas organic fertilizers must first be broken down by soil microbes. This activity depends on soil temperature. Below 70°F, soil microorganisms work slower, which makes the nutrients in organic fertilizer unavailable to plants in cold soils. Organic fertilizers release nutrients over a period of time, unlike synthetic fertilizers which make the nutrients available at time of application.

Chemical fertilizers dissolve fairly quickly in water, which makes them easily accessible to plants. Their labels instruct to water thoroughly after application. Unfortunately, this ready solubility also means that chemical fertilizers, unlike slow-release organics, leach more quickly from the soil.

For the best results with the least expense, strategically combine the two types of fertilizer. In the spring, while the soil is still cool, apply chemical fertilizer to lawn, flower borders, and vegetable gardens. Once the soil is warm, switch to compost or another low-cost organic source. Organic fertilizers are not necessarily more costly than synthetics. This is commonly misstated, because the measurable amount of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium in synthetic fertilizers costs less per pound than those in many commercially prepared organic fertilizers. But those aren't the only sources of organic fertilizer. Once you know, roughly, the fertilizer analysis of organic compounds, which varies with different sources, you can mix your own fertilizers balanced for your particular needs, at a fraction of the cost.

This is where ingenuity and the willingness to scrounge for something pays off. I never buy fertilizer, and you don't have to either. So long as you supply the plants' nutrient requirements, it just doesn't matter to them where the nutrients come from, whether it is an organic or synthetic source.

Feeding Plants on a Budget

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The most common mistake gardeners make is thinking more is better. If a bag of fertilizer says to apply a cup for every 10 feet of row, then two cups must make plants really grow. That is not the case. Manufacturer's instructions are not arbitrary numbers that somebody guessed at. Manufacturers base their instructions on the ability of plant roots to absorb nutrients in a set amount of time. This rate varies with the type, age, and health of the plant, as well as the soil type and texture.

Never Amend Backfill

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Not only is it cheaper to use the original soil to backfill a planting hole, it is better for the plant. By digging a hole and filling it with amendments or foreign soil, you create an artificial environment with a dramatic interface between it and the surrounding native soil. The result is water does not flow freely between the two media, and plant roots become entrapped in the planting hole, much like they would in a container. At first, the plant will look normal, in fact, most plants will appear to thrive. After a while, the plant becomes virtually potbound and dies, leaving the conscientious backfiller to wonder why.

Transplanting Bare-Root Stock

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Some of the best bargains in woody plants are bare-root plants. The selection is phenomenal, and it includes roses, grapes, blueberry bushes, canefruit, and many shrubs and trees.

Late winter is the best time to buy and plant. It is also the best time to dig up and move young plants that you have propagated yourself.

Plant bare-root plants as soon as you get them home, or dig them up, to prevent life-threatening dehydration. Bare-root plants are totally unprotected. If you cannot plant them immediately, place the plants in a bucket of water for no more than a few hours.

Check the plant carefully at both ends. Trim any damaged or spindly roots and cut back the top-growth in proportion to the roots. This seems to be a hard step for most gardeners, but the roots establish the life-blood of the plant and they must get top priority.

Prepare the soil the same as for container plants to transplant. Position the bare-root plant at the proper depth, again usually the same depth at which it grew previously. Build a cone of soil in the bottom of the hole and arrange the roots around it. Backfill, and water well.

Transplanting Container or Root-Ball Plants

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Container plants, similar to bedding plants, have their roots established in a growing medium. Unlike spring bedding plants though, it is best to transplant container plants when doRmant.

Perennials. Grow them in containers or special beds in the garden. Transplant at any time, but spring and fall are preferable. Top-growth is slower at these times, yet roots are still developing. At this stage the plant has the greatest chance of establishing roots before going dormant for the winter. The fun part about planting perennials is planning where you will plant them. Try arranging extensive borders using just the plants you propagate yourself (or sneak in a few store-bought plants if you must).

Make sure you plant perennials at the proper depth. Transplant most perennials at the same level they grew in the container or the field, usually with the crown at soil level. Perennials that tend to rot at the base grow better if planted higher. Plants that require dampness near the crown, such as Solomon's Seal and hostas should be planted lower.

Prepare a perennial bed by tilling and amending the soil at least a few days before planting. Ideally, this is a job for the previous fall. This gives the soil time to settle and mellow. If adding to an existing planting, begin by digging a hole about twice as big around as the roots of the plant and a few inches deeper. As for bedding plants, you can sprinkle in a little fertilizer or compost in the bottom and cover with soil. Water the potted plant and gently slide it from the container without breaking any roots. Carefully loosen some of the root soil. Tease any roots that have begun to grow in circles free of the root ball. Set in place and remove; refill the hole if necessary to adjust the planting depth. Backfill with soil from the hole and water well. As with bedding plants, pay perennials a little special attention until the roots are established.

Vines or climbers. Transplant vines or climbers from containers the same way as perennials. It is usually best to transplant in the spring to give the plant a chance to establish.

Install a trellis when planting climbers, or place the new plant near an existing support, such as a fence or tree. Supports, while necessary for climbers, pose a few challenges. Supports shelter the growing plant from essential rain or sprinkler water. If you use another plant as a support, the two will compete for water and nutrients. Plant climbers at least 1 foot from a support to reduce water deflection and allow for adequate air circulation. But plant them nearer tree trunks, however, since competing feeder roots spread out near the drip line rather than near the trunk.

Plant climbers grafted to a rootstock, such as wisteria and climbing roses, with the graft union below the soil level. This protects the union from extreme temperatures, and prompts the climber to send out its own roots. Also, clematis develops more buds if set about 2 inches deeper than it originally grew.

Shrubs and Trees. These are sold in containers or with the roots wrapped in burlap. The method for transplanting shrubs and trees is similar to the method used for other container plants, but on a larger scale. For roots wrapped in burlap, treat as you would a container plant, unless the soil crumbles. In that case don't worry, just proceed as for a bare-root plant. (See next section.)

Place the plant in the ground. Without burying the plant any deeper, backfill about halfway and water well. Finish filling the hole, water again, and gently firm the soil down. Shovel a ring of soil around the drip line. This forms a water-retaining well that pools water and funnels it to the plant's roots. Remove the well before hard frost or during heavy rains.

Trees require an additional Step. Many trees suffer root damage due to the effects of wind-rock. Winds rattle the tree, shaking it clear down to its unestablished roots. The motion tears tiny feeder roots, creates air pockets, and may prevent the tree from thriving. Place stakes or guy wires to keep the trunk in place while the roots gain strength. Don't make the common mistake of tying the tree down tightly. Tree roots need a little natural stress in order to grow strong. Make sure there is a little give in the tension of wires, or use a section of old rubber hose to tie the tree in place.

Transplanting Bedding Plants

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Bedding plants and other small plants are easy to establish in the garden. They are already growing and have an active root system. Plant them in the spring as soon as it is warm enough for the species. But don't rush out with a new flat of plants, and stick them in the ground. First you must harden them off. Most bedding plants are grown under greenhouse conditions and are not yet ready to take on the real world. Here are four critical steps to success.

Hardening off. Toughen bedding plants first to stretch your plant dollars. Hardening off is a physical toughening of plant tissues. It takes only a few days and pays off in the survival rate and vigor of transplants. Whether bringing home plants from the garden center or preparing your homegrown transplants, this is a crucial step. Begin by placing the plants outside for about thirty minutes in a protected site, near a south wall for instance. Even a gentle breeze can seem like a howling gale to pampered plants. The next day increase the plants' time and exposure to the elements. Continue this routine for about a week.

Site preparation. While the plants are hardening off, prepare the site by removing all weeds, turning and amending the soil, and dusting with diazinon or diatomaceous earth to kill soil-dwelling bugs. Transplanting. Transplant on an overcast day or in the late afternoon. Use a garden trowel to dig holes for the transplants 1 to 2 inches deeper than the roots of the plants. Sprinkle a little fertilizer or 1 inch of compost at the bottom of each hole. Refill the hole so that the transplant rests at the same depth it grew in the container. Gently loosen the transplant's roots, and place in the hole. Pat into place, and water. Epsom salts (magnesium sulfate) makes a cheap fertilizer substitute for tomato transplants.

Coddle transplants. Coddle the transplants for a few days even though they have been hardened off. They will suffer less shock and will grow more quickly. Water frequently, but don't drown them. If the weather is windy, give them a wind break by placing a board or bale of straw between them and the prevailing wind. If it gets too hot or sunny, rig a shade cloth over them. A good start will result in more robust and productive plants when they mature.

Windowpanes or Grow Lights

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The final consideration for starting seeds indoors is their individual light requirements. Most seeds germinate best in darkness, but some won't sprout without a little light. Knowing the light requirements of the seeds you sow prevents mysterious disappointments.
The light level is just as important after the seeds sprout. If grown at room temperature, they need supplemental light to prevent spindly growth. Plants grown on windowsills will do fine if the microclimate near the window is cool enough.

The alternative is to purchase cool-watt fluorescent lights. Sold as shop lights in 4- and 8-foot lengths, the lights are inexpensive and perfectly adequate for the task. They do not radiate the full sun spectrum, but unless you intend to hold seedlings until they flower, they won't need the full sun spectrum. The range of light waves from shop lights are just what seedlings need. Hang the lights within a few inches of the plants' tops, and adjust the lights as the seedlings grow.

Start Your Own Seeds in Containers

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You can start transplants either indoors in containers or in a cold frame. Start them under controlled conditions to get a jump on the growing season. For gardeners in areas with short growing seasons, this is standard practice. Also, plants that originated in the tropics, such as tomatoes or peppers, require a long, warm growing season to ripen fruit. Start them as transplants.
Starting seeds in containers requires seeds, a growing medium, and containers. Quell that stingy urge to use garden soil in containers. As discussed in Chapter 1, it compacts and carries disease organisms to which seedlings may succumb. A bag of seed-starting medium is not a bad investment, or mix your ow.
The next consideration is the container. The only requirements for transplant containers is that they must be at least 21/2 inches deep to allow for young, spreading roots, and they must have drainage holes. Those nicely matching plastic models at the garden center are a landfill nightmare. If you must buy them, use them carefully, wash thoroughly, and re-use them.

Do you need some suggestions to get started looking for free containers? Piece together wooden flats from scrap lumber, but make sure they are not painted or coated with a toxic preservative. Don't use old painted wood or treated lumber as it may contain toxins that could leach into the container soil. Cut milk cartons lengthwise and slice a few holes
in the bottom for drainage. Large, wax-coated cereal boxes and styrofoarn take-out containers are made to order. For a built-in greenhouse effect save plastic boxes from delis or bakeries. Poke holes in the bottom, fill, plant, and put the lid on. Wash out used margarine or yogurt cups and plastic trays from snack foods. Save toilet paper rolls, cut in half, arrange on a tray, and fill. Learn to find food-safe containers.

If you start seeds indoors, scrounge up trays to place beneath the draining containers. A shallow box lined with plastic wrap, plastic container lids, or cookie trays will work in a pinch.

Temperature is critical to how many seeds germinate and develop. Room temperature, 65° to 70°F works well to germinate most plants. Heating mats or tape underneath the seed containers encourage roots to grow downward. Once plants sprout, however, remove the bottom heat as cooler temperatures produce sturdier plants.

Sow the seed as for direct seeding. Don't worry about spacing. As soon as the seedlings show two to four leaves, carefully lift by the leaves and transplant into individual containers. Never pick up tiny seedlings by the stem because they will crush easily.

Planting Bulbs, Corms, and Tubers

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Not all plants start best from seed. Many, such as tulips, gladiolus, and dahlias, propagate best from underground storage organs (as discussed in Chapter 3). The methods for planting bulbs, corms, and tubers are similar to planting seed, except bulbs used for naturalizing or planted in grass. In these cases, don't prepare the soil in advance, instead use a handy bulb planter for forming holes.

For perennials, use a hand trowel to dig holes about three times deeper than the width of the bulb. This insulates the bulbs from extreme temperatures. Irises are one exception. Plant them with part of the rhizome above ground. Planting irises too deeply will kill them. Likewise, plant onions and garlic with the tops nearly exposed.

It is absolutely critical to place bulbs, corms, and other underground storage organs in the soil with the growing tip facing the sky. If you are not sure which end is the growing tip, check for roots. The growing tip is on the opposite end. Dahlias and other tuberous plants should have small growing shoots coming out of the tuber. Plant them so the tips of the shoots point up. Make sure you don't break or damage growing tips. Sprinkle a little bone meal in the hole before placing the bulb to help the roots develop. Place the bulb in the hole, fill with the soil removed from it, and press down gently.

Planting Seed at the Right Temperature

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It is important to know the temperature tolerance of the seeds you plant. Cool-season plants will sprout and grow at 40°F. Due to the process of microbial breakdown, however, cold soil has few organic nutrients available to plants. But warm-season plants will rot at 40°F. Most plants germinate very well at temperatures between 60° and 70°F.

Saving Money on Seeds

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When buying plants, seeds are much cheaper than transplants. Compare two extremes. Tetraploid pelargoniums cost $2.95 for a packet of only five seeds, nearly 60¢ for each plant. A transplant, however, costs around $3. Of course, you have to factor in the cost of growing the seed, but after doing that, even expensive seed is still a bargain. Then there are the seeds you buy on sale or wholesale, or those you save from your own plants. Outside of a few pennies for seed, soil, and water, the costs are negligible for a homegrown transplant.

Tucked away in its cozy little hiding place, protected by a tough seedcoat, a baby plant waits to make its grand entrance into the world. When conditions of light, temperature, and moisture are just right, which varies by the type of seed, the embryo bursts forth. It carries just enough nutrition in the seed for the incredible feat of breaking free and stretching upward. Afterwards, it makes its own food. Through the miraculous process of photosynthesis, plant cells convert light, air, water, and soil nutrients into sugars, starches, and proteins. Seeds may be direct seeded, which means planted directly into the garden where they will grow, or started in containers for later transplanting. Most plants are better suited to one method than the other.

Direct Seeding
This is the original plan for seed-bearing plants. They flower, set seed, and some seeds manage to get a foothold. Some types of garden seeds, especially those that develop extensive root systems, are best suited to direct seeding. Direct seeding begins with preparing a seed-bed. Begin by removing all weeds and cultivating the soil. Rent a rototiller or get a good workout turning the soil by hand. Rake the soil to remove any clumps, sticks, or rocks, and break the soil into fine particles. Water the area the day before planting so the soil is moist. You may want to treat the soil with an insecticide, such as diazinon (one of the less toxic of the chemical insecticides) or diatomaceous earth (an organic alternative), especially in soil freshly turned from sod. If soil-dwelling insects such as army-worms or cutworms get your plants before they emerge, you not only waste the money, time, and effort of planting, but you fall behind in the growing season. Space seed plantings to avoid wasting seeds and having to pull out healthy plants later.

You can broadcast seeds or plant them in rows. Spice dispensers, such as those for salt substitutes, make handy, free seed broadcasters. Those with smaller holes work for small-seeded crops, such as carrots; those with larger holes, are great for bigger seeds, such as marigolds. Fill the dispenser and gently scatter the seeds evenly over the prepared area. Scatter tiny seeds more evenly by mixing with fine sand for a carrying medium. To plant in rows, use a dibble, made from a stick or your finger, to poke a hole the appropriate depth into the soil, and drop a seed or two in each hole. Use either method for raised beds or wide rows.

I include broadcast seeding because many gardeners use it, but I don't. I think it wastes seed. It is faster than placing each individual seed where it belongs. Much of the time saved is imaginary, because thinning the thickly sprouted seeds takes time. Since it is more difficult for me to justify yanking out a perfectly healthy seedling than it is to space my plantings in the first place, I take the extra few minutes spacing seeds according to their size at maturity. Since I plant wide rows in raised beds, I space the seeds a certain distance apart from a center point. For example, carrot seeds are 3 inches apart on all sides and bean seeds are 4-inches apart.

Once planted, cover seeds lightly with fine soil. The standard rule of thumb is cover seeds with soil two or three times as deep as the seed's thickness. Gently press on soil over the seeds until dirt is firm. Remember to keep moist. Tender seedlings will die if allowed to dry out.

When starting vining plants, such as pole beans, scarlet runner beans, or sweet peas, plant a support along with them. Another prime candidate for direct seeding is a lawn. Till and amend the soil; most lawns benefit from tilling in peat moss or other organic matter. Rake until as even as possible, then compact with a roller, a large metal drum you rent and fill half-full with water for weight.

Seed evenly with a spreader by walking across the area first in one direction, then perpendicular to the first pattern, and finally at a diagonal. This pattern prevents bare spots.

The best germination depends on good seed, warm temperatures, and constant moisture. Until the grass is about 1 inch tall, water it every day. Spread a grass seed mulch over the seed to reduce water loss. You will save money substantially by planting your own lawn rather than laying sod or hiring someone else to install it either way.

Tips on Planting Many Types of Plants

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Garden Vegetables
This may sound a little obvious, but grow what you like to eat. No matter how good a crop you turn out, it's a waste of time and money if no one eats it. The second important consideration for a cost-effective plot is to grow only those crops which are cheaper to grow than buy. Why toil over a bed of spuds when you can buy 10 pounds for $1.59? Actually, there are a couple of sound exceptions to this rule. If your heart's desire is for a vegetable variety unavailable at the grocery store, grow your own. If you worry about an organic diet, grow your own. But if cost is a factor, leave the cheap vegetables to the truck farmers.

Herbs
Herbs are among the most trouble-free plants to grow, rarely bothered by pests or diseases. This is an endearing quality to the gardener who likes to save time and money. Most are attractive plants that add beauty to the landscape and many are exquisitely fragrant. They fit in anywhere; interplant into a border or grow in containers, a windowbox, or a pot on a sunny kitchen windowsill.

Look at some of the wonderful ways you can save money through the benefit of homegrown herbs. Grow gourmet cooking herbs such as Italian parsley or cilantro, that are often difficult to find in grocery stores. Common culinary herbs such as dill, oregano, sage, and tarragon transcend into gourmet delights when homegrown and just-picked fresh. Moreover, all herbs seem to taste better when you know you didn't have to pay the high prices they bring at the market. Grow mints, chamomile, and lemon balm, among others, to create your own soothing teas at a fraction the cost of store-bought. You can also dry herbs to use and enjoy all through the year, or to give as gifts.

Small Fruits
Berries and other small fruits add a touch of sweetness to the summer garden. While expensive in the supermarket, most small fruits are easy to grow.

Annual and Perennial Flowers
We appreciate flowers for their marvelous colors, textures and aromas. Annuals provide color all season, while gardeners wait patiently for perennial favorites. By blending the two types, you can create a lasting portrait in living color.

Turf and Ground Covers
Choices in ground covers have expanded wildly in the last few years. From play turf to low-maintenance 'Blue Carpet' juniper, there is something for every lifestyle and every pocketbook. As nice as a lawn is, consider the time and expense that goes into maintaining it, and alternatives become all the more attractive. Many tolerate drought much better than a lawn, which saves you money on watering. And most add visual interest to the landscape that turf can't touch. Those listed tend to spread readily to cover the area, another valuable characteristic.

Climbers and Vines
Climbers and vines add interest to spaces that might otherwise go bare. Use them to create a privacy screen or to obstruct an unpleasant view. Quick growing annuals are handy for a nearly instant solution to such landscape problems, while perennials provide long-term cover. Growing and training vines is easy. Direct seed or transplant annuals where you want them to grow, and provide a trellis or other support structure at planting time. Plant perennial vines as you would other perennials. The method differs somewhat for container plants and bare root plants.

Landscape Shrubs
The main reason for landscape shrubs is to provide visual interest in the yard or garden. Those that stand out remain attractive even after their main growing season. Shrubs also provide a haven for birds.

Shade and Landscape Trees
Few things in life are more rewarding than trees. They provide shade, privacy, and good company. Recommended types on the next page are low-maintenance, and offer at least two seasons of interest.

The Value of a Plant's Character

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What characteristics do you look for in the plants you choose? Do you prefer a particular size and shape, a certain flower color, or productivity in food plants? As mentioned before, only the plants that suit your taste as well as your site, belong in your garden. But once you have decided your preferences for the more obvious qualities, consider some characteristics that will really save you money in the long-run.

Disease Resistance
Two rose bushes are next to each other in a border garden. One is practically defoliated, with the remaining leaves covered in black blotches. The other has full leaves and boasts blooms to boot. What makes the difference? Some plants are just naturally more resistant to disease than others are, and we don't always know why. Perhaps the cuticle, the waxy coating, on the leaves of the healthy rose bush is thicker, less acidic, or tougher than that of the sick rose bush. Physical and chemical attributes account for much of the mystique of natural resistance. We may not know exactly whysome plants resist illness, but we know disease resistance exists. Unfortunately, resistance often varies with climate or locale. Still, resistant varieties help you save money fighting plant diseases or replacing lost plants. Look for varieties that are resistant to diseases that are particularly prevalent in your area. Don't assume that just because you bought certified disease-free plants or resistant varieties, your plants will never get sick. The rest is up to you. Just as you can keep susceptible plants healthy with proper care, disease-resistant plants can get sick if not maintained properly.

Drought Resistance
Plants that evolved in arid places had to adapt in order to survive. Thin leaves, a glossy coating, fuzzy stems, or fleshy plant parts all help prevent water loss. Cacti are the classic example of drought resistance. But other plants also tolerate a lack of water. Remember that newly transplanted specimens usually will need to be kept moist until they adapt to their new surroundings.

Cold Hardiness
Frost damage can affect plants in many ways. Spring frosts may kill flowering buds, ruining a flowering or fruiting season, but causing little or no permanent damage. Severe winter cold may split branches or stems, which can kill the plant.
Gardeners who live in cold climate areas, including high elevations or northern latitudes, learn quickly to rely on short-season, late-blooming, and cold-hardy plants. If you garden in such an area, look for these designations when choosing varieties. Plants that evolved in cold climates developed some clever tricks for foiling frost. Short-season varieties take less time to flower or fruit than others of their type. They don't really tolerate cold, they avoid it. Late bloomers don't break bud in the spring until after hard frosts, hopefully. And cold-hardy perennials, shrubs, and trees have a unique method of surviving winter's chill, called super-cooling.
Cool temperatures alone don't cause winter damage. Dehydrating winds, bright sun, and temperature fluctuations all contribute to damage. Water retained in cells, freezing and swelling, and thawing and refreezing causes structural damage to plants. Cells burst and irreparably damage tissues.

Sun and Heat Tolerance
Severe cold as well as unrelenting heat, can damage plant tissues. With too much sun and heat, blossoms fade and fall, leaves drop, and fruit fails to develop. Even if plants are well-watered, the rate of transpiration (see Chapter 1) often outpaces the ability of the roots to absorb and replace lost moisture. But some plants have found ways to beat the heat.

Why You Should Go Native

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The plants best suited to your area are those nature put there. Check with your County Extension Service for ideas and sources. The trick to incorporating native plants is to get rid of any images of perfectly mowed grass surrounded by a neatly trimmed hedge. Wander out into the country and look at how nature arranges plants. A word of caution is necessary here. Not only is it bad manners to go out and lift plants from the wild, in many cases it is downright illegal. Check with your local Audubon Society Chapter or native plant society to determine whether a plant is endangered. Removing endangered plants from the wild is prohibited, and even collecting seeds from such plants may be restricted. In the case of others, you must have permission from a private property owner before digging up desirable natives. You can, however, make note of the plants you want, and gather seeds in the fall. Going native doesn't necessarily mean including only local plants in the landscape. Your hometown surely is unique, but there are other regions throughout the world with similar climateslatitude, altitude, and distance from large bodies of water. Plants from similar zones often grow equally as well in one as in another. For instance, Rugosa roses, native to the Far East, thrive in seaboard towns everywhere. Alpine plants from Switzerland flourish in rock gardens in Minnesota and Oregon. Cacti from Arizona prosper in any dry area. The idea is to use plants found in similar regions.

Nursery Shopping Strategy

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The very best way to get top-quality plants from your local garden center or nursery is to get the best service. The people who work there are your most valuable resource. They know the quality of their product, their wholesalers, when the plants arrived, how they were cared for, and any problems that may exist. Do yourself a favor; get to know these folks.

Know When to Shop
Plants arrive at the garden center from the supplier in the best possible condition, given the rigors of shipment. They sometimes go downhill from there. When scouting for plants, call and ask when the store expects to receive their shipment from their best supplier, and show up when the plants arrive. Not only will you get the healthiest possible plants, but you will also get first pick.
You won't get a bargain if you wait for plants to go on sale. If a plant has been sitting on a rack for months, especially if it doesn't receive proper care, then it probably won't amount to much. The best bets among such plants are perennials, but only if the price is really low. If you feel you can bring a plant around, then by all means take a cheap gamble. Otherwise, spend wisely, and buy early.

Signs of a Good Investment
Blossoms are the one feature that attract buyers most readily. Yet seedlings that have been forced into bloom in order to make them more tempting to buyers can actually result in less productive plants in the long run. The stress of life with few roots and a big head slows plant vigor.

Look for compact, vigorous plants that appear healthy. Pass by plants with dead or yellowing leaves or those that have grown leggy. Be wary of unstable stems or plants that look poorly rooted. Well-rooted plants will recover from transplant shock much more quickly than those with poorly developed roots. If you can find plants that are not yet in bloom, consider them first.

When buying perennials always look at the roots, because that is the future of the plant. A healthy root system ensures the plant will live to bloom for years to come.

No matter what type of plant you are buying, look it over thoroughly for any signs of pests or diseases. Never buy sick or infested plants at any price.

Two More Tricks to Cheap Seeds

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Once upon a time I ran a bedding plant business. I think I made about $200 that year. But from that experience I learned something so obvious it's embarrassing. Wholesale is cheaper than retail. And nowhere is that more obvious than in the seed business.
Owning a small greenhouse business has its advantages, not the least of which is you get to write things off on your taxes and maybe even realize a profit. You also get to buy from wholesale distributors. The price is always much less than retail. The catch is you must buy in quantity. This is not really a problem since most seed keeps for years, or you could resell some, perhaps at a reasonable mark-up, to gardening pals.

If you are not interested in going into business, then watch those seed-rack displays. Seed companies only sell seed packaged for the current year. At the end of each season, you can get mega-bargains on this year's product. Often seeds that sold for $1 a packet, sell at ten packets for $1 when the stores are clearing inventory. Garden centers offer the least drastic discounts, while grocery stores, hardware stores, and other stores not normally in the garden supply business just want to get rid of them. A word of caution, however, is remember that the perfect environment for storing seed is a cool, dry place. Don't buy from seed racks exposed to rain or excess summer heat. The seed may be ruined.

Dealing with Seed Bargains

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Mail-order catalogs and display racks everywhere from garden centers to grocery and hardware stores sell seeds. Which sources offer the best bargains?

Mail-order seed companies are big business. Pick up a catalog and wander through those glossy pages of perfect plants; you can't help but be tempted to order many. Rule number one is to take the pictures with a grain of salt. Your plants probably won't look just like the picture-perfect ones.

Compare several catalogs, and you will quickly find that most are selling the same seeds, packaged a little differently in a range of prices. Look for the best-priced varieties with the color, flavor, texture, growth habit, or other traits you desire. Hint: It's not always the biggest company that offers the smallest price. Furthermore small seed companies often focus on local conditions and offer varieties that will thrive in your immediate area. Check them first if there are any near you.

Gardening magazines often have a seed-savers exchange section. Someone has saved variety X and would like to trade for Y. These are a great way to get seedsoften rare or heirloom varieties that are hard to find elsewhere. There are seed-saving clubs, such as the Seed Savers Exchange, the members of which trade thousands of seed varieties. (See page 156 for address.) Finally, plant associations abound for nearly every kind of plantfrom alpines to water lilies. National groups usually send out a newsletter in which members often list plants they have to offer. If you have a real passion for a particular kind of plant, get involved with the local chapter of the appropriate association. (Of course, the really cheap way is to become friends with someone who is already a member and borrow a copy of the newsletter!)

Where to Find Homeless Plants

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Digging up someone else's landscape is obviously a bad idea, but there are a number of valuable resources for finding unwanted plants. Landscape companies frequently redesign existing plantings, both residential and commercial. Construction firms remove existing plants everyday when expanding structures, usually with a bulldozer. If you make contact with these people and offer to remove unwanted plants for free, you may find yourself with more plants than you can handle.

No matter what the source of a secondhand plant, transplant only healthy-looking specimens. A free diseased plant can become quite costly.

Slightly Used Plants

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Another way to save on plant costs is to ''reuse" grown plants from your own garden, or those unwanted by others.

One of the best reasons to belong to a garden club, apart from the friendship, is that members give each other or sell cheaply perfectly good plants. Plant swaps or sales are standard among clubs and a great way to increase your plant collection. If you're not a member of a formal club, create the same opportunities simply by talking with others about your garden and theirs. Once people know you are a plant nut, they offer you all kinds of plant items.

Plants move around some people's yards more than the people. A shrub just doesn't prosper in a particular corner. A rose bush might clash with a climbing vine. It's actually a lot like moving furniture around until you create just the perfect setting in your outdoor room. Furniture doesn't suffer transplant shock, however. The first rule of thumb for digging up and relocating any plant is to wait until the plant is dormant. This causes the least possible amount of stress on the plant. Fall is usually the best time. For most perennials, dig down around the perimeter of the plant to create a rootball large enough to accommodate the plant. For shrubs and trees, a burlap wrap will help hold the rootball in place. Dig a trench around the perimeter of the plant branches, the dripline, and use a fork or spade to pull as much soil away from roots as possible to create a ball of soil. Tip the rootball up with the edge of a shovel, and shuffle the burlap underneath. Repeat around the plant, shifting the burlap until it encircles the roots. For heavy shrubs or trees, you may need to slide a board or two underneath the rootball to create enough leverage to move the plant. Lift the plant carefully and transport.

You can dig up plants routinely sold bare rootsuch as roses, grapes, raspberries, blueberries, and many shrubsand treat them the same way as a bare-root transplant . A younger plant has better chances of survival.

Bulbs, Corms, and Tubers

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These are underground plant parts used to store energy for the coming year. Plants that grow from bulbs include common favorites, such as crocus, daffodil, narcissus, and tulips, as well as a range of others. They routinely develop offsets, smaller versions of themselves that you can separate from the parent.

Reap the bounty of tiny bulbs by lifting a clump with a fork and carefully pulling the bulblets free. Pot them and let grow for a year or two before planting outside. Some of the more common bulbs reproduce as follows:

Lilies form little bulbs along the length of the stem, which you can pluck and plant.

Gladiolus grow from corms, similar to underground bulbs, and you can separate them the same way.

Dahlias grow from large, fleshy tubers. In most parts of the country, you must dig them up every fall and bring them in from the cold. In the spring, as buds form, cut the tuber into sections. Make sure you include a couple of buds on each section.

Divide and Multiply

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Dividing is a quick way to multiply your collection of perennials, succulents, and some suckering shrubs. Dividing yields two or more plants from one, and it is healthier for the original plant than being left to overcrowd itself.

The best time to divide most plants is from late fall to early spring. Avoid especially cold or wet periods as these make it tough for the divided plants to reestablish. Plants with fleshy roots, such as irises, peonies, and poppies, have a better chance of rooting if divided in late summer.

Begin by gently digging around the base of the plant to expose the perimeters of it. Then carefully lift the plant with a garden fork. Shake or brush off as much soil as possible so you can see what you are doing. Often with older plants, there will be a dead spot of brown stems in the center of the plant. Cut this out and divide the remaining growth. The simplest way to divide most plants is to grasp large sections by hand and gently, but firmly, pull them apart. Plants that can't be pulled apart can be cut through with a sharp spade. Make sure you leave a few buds on each division.

You can dust any cuts with a fungicide to curb infection. Cut back the tops and place the new plants in the ground at the same height they were growing before, and water.

How to Take Root Cuttings

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Step 1: Gently dig through the soil to expose young, growing roots, approximately pencil-size. Herbaceous perennials may be thinner.

Step 2: With a sharp knife cut the root straight across, and place an angled cut further down the root. This way you can tell which end is up.

Step 3: If you must transport the cutting, wrap it in a moist paper towel.

Step 4: Remove any fibrous roots. You can divide long cuttings and shorten thinner ones to between 3 and 5 inches. Make a fresh, slanted cut in each piece to designate top and bottom.

Step 5: Dip cutting into rooting hormone.

Step 6: Insert cutting into moist rooting medium with the slanted end down and the straight-cut-end level with the surface. For thin roots, lay them sideways, and cover lightly with soil. You can root some species, such as lilac and sumac, directly into the garden site.

Step 7: Pot or transplant roots after a few leaves develop.

Leave it alone, except to water, until the end of the next growing season. If the roots are strong, then cut the new plant from the parent and transplant.

A variation, called serpentine layering, involves anchoring a long stem to the soil in several spots. It's a great way to make several copies of plants, such as clematis or climbing roses, that send out long, flexible stems.

Some plants, raspberry and blackberry varieties in particular, reproduce readily by tip-layering. It works like simple layering, except you bury the tip of the vine.

Another technique is air layering, whereby you trick the stem into believing it has been anchored in the soil. Remove any leaves that are in the way. Make a sleeve from plastic wrap and fit it over or around the stem; wrap the bottom with tape. Make a slanted cut upwards into the stem with a sharp knife, and quickly pack around the stem with moist sphagnum moss using the back of the knife. Pull the sleeve up, pack fully with more damp moss, and seal the top of the plastic sleeve firmly with tape. Eventually roots will show through the plastic. At this point, cut the stem off just below the new root ball and pot up the new plant.

How to Take Leaf Cuttings

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Step 1: Cut a healthy leaf from the parent plant.

Step 2: If you must transport it, wrap leaf in moist towel.

Step 3: Place it in moist rooting medium. There are different ways to do this. The leaf may be set upright so the blade is in contact with the rooting medium. You also can cut several nicks along the length of the veins, and press the leaf flat, vein-side down in the rooting medium. Or cut the leaf lengthwise and insert into rooting medium with the cut-side down to expose the veins.

Step 4: Cover with clear plastic.

Step 5: Water it and keep away from direct sunlight.

Step 6: Pot new plants after a few leaves appear.

If you master the art of taking stem cuttings, you may find yourself suddenly surrounded by new plants. Some plants root more easily than others. If a cutting doesn't root well in the spring, try again later in the season. Since plants mature at different rates, in different climes, and even in different years, there always will be some variability. Keep records to refine the practice for your area.

This method of creating free plants is well-suited to houseplants. Roots form along the veins and usually several new plantlets emerge from each leaf cutting.

How to Take Stem Cuttings

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Step 1: With a sharp knife, slice the stem of the parent plant approximately 1 inch beneath a node.

Step 2: If you must transport the cutting, gently wrap it in a moistened, absorbent paper towel.

Step 3: Trim end of stem to just below a node. Often you can take several cuttings from each collected stem. Snip off any flowers and all but two or three leaves.

Step 4: Dip in rooting hormone, if desired. These products prompt root cells to divide. Place cuttings in moist rooting medium. Some plants, such as pelargonium and coleus, will root in a glass of water.

Step 5: Cover cuttings with plastic.

Step 6: Pot or transplant cuttings when new growth shows.
you get plants and make friends. If you appear presentable, courteous, and knowledgeable, you will assuage any fears that you might damage their precious plants. Offer to propagate a cutting for the gardener, as well as yourself. This one almost always works!

Take cuttings from the stem, leaves, or roots of various plant species. Stem cuttings are referred to as softwood, greenwood, or hardwood. Softwood cuttings are those taken in the spring before new growth begins to harden. They are the easiest to root.

Greenwood cuttings are taken in the summer before the stems have fully matured. They root a little slower, but on average are more likely to survive. Hardwood cuttings are taken from mature stems at the end of the growing season. They are usually the slowest to root. Leaf cuttings, reserved for fleshy-leaved plants, can be taken anytime during the growing season. Root cuttings are taken from dormant shrubs or trees. Often one method works better than the others for a specific plant; even varieties within a species respond differently.

Cutting a piece from a plant and having a whole new plant form may seem like magic to non-gardeners, comparable to cutting off your finger and growing a twin.
you get plants and make friends. If you appear presentable, courteous, and knowledgeable, you will assuage any fears that you might damage their precious plants. Offer to propagate a cutting for the gardener, as well as yourself. This one almost always works!
Take cuttings from the stem, leaves, or roots of various plant species. Stem cuttings are referred to as softwood, greenwood, or hardwood. Softwood cuttings are those taken in the spring before new growth begins to harden. They are the easiest to root. Greenwood cuttings are taken in the summer before the stems have fully matured. They root a little slower, but on average are more likely to survive. Hardwood cuttings are taken from mature stems at the end of the growing season. They are usually the slowest to root. Leaf cuttings, reserved for fleshy-leaved plants, can be taken anytime during the growing season. Root cuttings are taken from dormant shrubs or trees. Often one method works better than the others for a specific plant; even varieties within a species respond differently.
Cutting a piece from a plant and having a whole new plant form may seem like magic to non-gardeners, comparable to cutting off your finger and growing a twin.

Why Sowing Seeds is Satisfying?

2010-04-30T02:04:00.000-07:00

Some plants just won't give you the satisfaction of saving and using your own seed. They are do-it-yourselfers or self-sowers. If you don't pluck every last spent blossom from plants such as calendula, French marigolds, forget-me-nots, or sweet alyssum, they will seed themselves back. Personally, I like this approach. You not only save money, but also time and effort.

Often second-generation seeds won't grow up to look just like their parents, which is fine as long as they produce interesting or attractive plants. When weeding in the spring look for familiar seedlings, lest you accidently cull volunteer flowers (self-sown plants that pop up unexpectedly).
Self-Sowing Plants:

Allowing plants to self-sow can save you money, time, and effort. But you have to be prepared for some surprises. Here's a brief guide to well-known self-sowers.

Will Grow True to Type:
Blue Cornflower, Calendula, Dill, French Marigold, Godetia, Love-in-a-Mist, Nasturtiums, Sweet Alyssum, Yellow Corydalis, Violets, Pansies.

Type Will Change With New Generation:
Forget-me-not, Foxglove, Snapdragon.

Sowing Saved Seeds

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The final step toward renewing your plant population is to sow the seeds. Chapter 6 describes how to start seeds and when to transplant. There is one other consideration, however, with home-cured seeds. Some types need a little help to sprout.

Most vegetable seeds don't need special attention to germinate. Soaking large vegetable seeds for one to two hours helps accelerate the process, but it is not absolutely necessary. Most flowers also don't require special treatment. A few perennial and shrub seeds, however, have unusual requirements.

Certain seeds, such as yarrow, or some varieties of aster or dianthus, remain dormant for a long time and will germinate best after their second year in storage. Others, such as some forms of primula or rhododendron, only germinate well when sowed fresh. Soaking seeds of camellia, cystitus, and other shrubs greatly enhances their germination rates.

Some seeds, such as those of lupine or peonies, are so tough they should be scarified. This means gently nicking or sanding the seed coat to give the embryo an escape route.

Testing Stored Seeds

2010-04-30T02:00:00.000-07:00

Faster germination results in more vigorous plants. For this to occur a high percentage of the seeds should sprout within the normal time for its type. To determine how well your seeds have survived storage, perform a germination test.

Moisten a paper towel or coffee filter, place ten or twenty seeds on it, and seal in a zip-seal plastic bag. Open daily to check for germination. After the appropriate amount of time has passed for that type of seed, count the number of sprouts to figure the percentage.

Five out of ten seeds and ten out of twenty seeds gives a 50 percent rate. More seeds in the test will yield more accurate results. Seeds that show a better than 70 percent germination rate are average, over 80 percent are good, and better than 90 percent are great to plant.
Don't bother planting poorly germinating seeds. They won't produce superior plants, a necessity for getting the most from your gardening dollar. Always start with the best seed possible, even if you have to go out and buy it.

Storing Seeds

2010-03-30T03:16:00.000-07:00

You can find good, cheap containers for storing seeds around your house, including old prescription bottles, glass jars with screw-on lids, and plastic film canisters. These containers all protect from outside moisture and pests. If you have some very small packets of seeds, label and store them within a larger container.

Seeds must be kept dry and cool, otherwise they rot or sprout. Humidity of less than 60 percent, and temperatures between 32°F and 41°F are ideal. Add a packet of desiccant powder (such as silica gel) or powdered milk, to combat high humidity. The gel absorbs best. Under good conditions, many types of seed will remain viable for years. The longer you store seeds, the less viable and vigorous they will be. The following table lists some common seeds and their storage life expectancies. Commercially packed seed may store longer than home-grown.

HOW TO COLLECT VEGETABLE SEEDS

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Asparagus. Only female plants produce the berries which contain seeds. Harvest when berries turn red.

Beans & Peas. Leave the pods on the plant until dry.

Broccoli. Let buds flower and develop until pods form. Collect after the pods have dried on the plant.

Cabbage. This biennial sends up seed stalk which develops pods. Pick after pods have turned yellow.

Carrot. Seeds on this biennial ripen about 60 days after flowering. Carrots cross with the weed Queen Anne's Lace, so don't allow it nearby.
Cauliflower. Pick after pods turn brown.

Corn. Different varieties cross-pollinate. Keep them separated by at least 100 feet or cover ears with a paper bag before the silks emerge. Hand-pollinate by covering tassels with a paper bag to collect pollen, and then by sprinkling pollen over silks. Allow the ears to ripen on the plant. Husk corn, and hang it until kernels are dry.

Cucumbers. Different cultivars cross-pollinate, so isolate them. Pick after cucumbers turn yellow. Scrape out seed pulp and wash seeds.

Dill. Let seeds dry on plant.

Eggplant. Pick when fruit turns dull and wrinkly. Separate seeds from flesh.

Lettuce. Wait for the last plants to bolt, then let flower. Harvest when fluffy, white seeds form.

Melons. Harvest fruit when ripe, scrape out seeds, rinse, and dry.

Okra. Allow pods to ripen on plant.

Onion. Harvest flowering tops as soon as black seeds are visible. Dry for a few weeks, then gently rub off the seeds.

Peppers. Wait until the fruit has reached the appropriate color for its variety; most turn red. Cut off the top of the pepper and shake or scoop out seeds.

Potatoes. Seeds do develop, but planting from seed potatoes is easiest. Dig up future seed potatoes and let dry in the sun to improve storage. Never do this with eating spuds, because they turn green and bitter.

Pumpkins & Squash. Allow fruit to ripen fully and scrape out seeds.

Radishes. Let flower and harvest when seed pods are dry.

Spinach. Let seeds ripen on plants.

Sunflowers. Allow them to dry on the stalk. You may need to cover sunflowers to protect from birds.

Tomatoes. Pick overripe fruit; squeeze pulp and seeds into a jar. Allow to ferment at room temperature for three or four days. Stir daily and pour off any liquid and floating seeds. Keep only the seeds that sink; rinse and dry them.

Turnips. Dig up this biennial, and overwinter 1-year-old plants in a root cellar. Replant in spring for seed production. Harvest seed pods when dry.

Collecting Seeds

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Once you have seeds, the next step is to gather and prepare them for storage. For most plants, it is critical to wait until the seeds are ripe before you harvest them. Failure to do so results in seeds with a low germination rate and poor vigor. Some exceptions are snap beans, lettuce, radishes, spinach, and tomatoes, which germinate fairly well when a little underripe. Although the seeds must be ripe, it also is important to make sure they are not yet rotten or expelled by the plant when harvesting. A dry, sunny day is perfect for gathering seeds or seed fruit.

The method of harvest depends on the type of plant. Many annual flowers, lettuce, and onions release their seeds as soon as they mature. Tie a small paper bag over the developing seed head to catch them as they fall. Wait until fleshy fruits, such as melons, tomatoes, rose hips, shrub berries, or tree fruit, are a little overripe to pick. Scrape the seeds from the flesh of the fruit, soak to remove any residue, and allow to dry completely. Some plants produce capsules or seed pods; snap them off, break open, and shake the seeds out over white paper.

The moisture content of stored seeds is critical to their viability. (Viability determines whether or not it will sprout.) Seeds must be kept as dry as possible. Spread clean seeds out on newspapers in a dry place for at least one week. Hang an incandescent lightbulb overhead to raise the temperature slightly and dry the surrounding air. Temperatures much over 100°F as well as any other factors causing the seeds to dry too quickly will damage them. Some seeds will dry just fine on the plant; poppy seeds and peas are good examples. An alternate method is to wrap the seeds in paper, and place in a jar with an equal weight of silica gel. Small seeds will dry in about ten days, while larger ones can take up to sixteen days. Test for dryness by bending the seeds. Those that snap back are not ready for storage, but those that break are ready.

Going to Seed

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The first step in seed-saving is to let your plants produce the seed. Choose the very best example of each type of plant as the parent for the next generation. Look for good color, fine flavor, superior size, texture, or yield, and disease or insect resistance. In short, choose plants with unique qualities that set them apart from the rest. Never collect seed from diseased plants, because some diseases are seed-borne. Growing conditions during seed development affect the quality of seeds, so take good care of the expectant plants.

To set seed, the plant must be pollinated. Some plants, such as beans, lettuce, peas, and tomatoes are self-pollinating, which means the flowers on the plant produce and accept their own pollen. Others require pollen from a second plant, delivered either by the breeze or the bees. This can complicate seed-saving when related plants cross-pollinate, thereby affecting the seed crop.

In the garden, usually only plants of the same species can cross-pollinate. If you grow several varieties of a species, cover selected plants, or individual flowers, to prevent cross-pollination. For wind-pollinated crops, such as beets, chard, corn, and spinach, use muslin or spun-bonded polypropylene to keep away the tiny grains of pollen. For insect-pollinated crops, such as broccoli, carrots, or squash, cheesecloth will keep the bugs away from the flowers.

Once you cover plants that are normally pollinated by insects, you become responsible for their pollination. They can be hand-pollinated by gently stroking flowers with a fine artist's paintbrush.

The process becomes simpler if you grow only one variety of each plant, or if you don't mind the effects of crossing two cultivars.

Often a cross between two types, say of tomatoes or carrots, doesn't result in any tremendous surprises. But let two cultivars of the species Cucurbita pepopumpkins, zucchini, scallop, crooknecks, acorn squash, spaghetti squash, and some gourdsmingle, and you could find some real oddballs in next year's pumpkin patch.

Understanding Free Seeds

2010-02-26T03:16:00.001-08:00

Compared to the overall cost of gardening, seed is really a bargain. But why pay for them when they are all around you for free? If you have plants, you have seeds. You should know, however, that seeds from hybrid plants don't produce plants just like their parents. Hybrids are the result of cross-fertilization between two or more species. Open-pollinated plants, on the other hand, are fertilized naturally"in the open"and are likely to produce offspring similar to the parent plant. If you plan to collect seed for future seasons' plantings, you will have better results if you choose seeds or plants that are labelled "open-pollinated" or ''OP" in a catalog or nursery.

The seed-saving process is simple and basically the same for all seed-bearing plants.

Annuals are the easiest plants from which to collect seed. Start with them if you are new to the practice. Many perennials are also easy to propagate from seed. Since biennials don't flower or set seed until their second year, they may require protection over the winter to stay alive long enough to yield seed.

Step 1: Let one or more plants of a chosen variety go to seed. First the plant must flower, then fruit, such as a tomato, pea-pod, rose-hip, apple, or seed head will form. Leave on the plant until it is past ripe or about to fall off.

Step 2: Pick fruit or seed head. Remove seeds.

Step 3: Dry seeds thoroughly before packaging in envelopes or airtight containers.

Step 4: Label and store seeds in a cool, dry place.

Step 5: When ready to use, test seeds for germination.

Step 6: Sow.

What to Look for in Used Gardening Tools?

2010-01-29T04:11:00.000-08:00

Ask yourself some general questions when looking at a used machine. Does it appear to have been well-maintained? Is it reasonably clean? Ask the seller to check the oil, and other applicable fluids or lubrication points. This will show you if the machine is currently in good condition. Also if a seller is not familiar enough with the machine to do this for you, he probably didn't perform routine maintenance. Ask for a "test drive." Evaluate how easily it starts, how comfortable it is for you to use, and how efficient the machine is for the type of job you have at home. Ask where you can take the machine for servicing, if necessary. This applies for new or used equipment, since not all places that sell garden equipment service what they sell. For specific tools, new or used, look for the following characteristics.

Chipper/shredders. Consider maneuverability, balance, the clutch system, and ease of feeding material into it. You don't want to lift heavy materials or shovel loads over your head to use the machine. A grate to regulate the size of material as it comes out will eliminate running material through twice.

Rototillers. Rear-tine machines are generally the easiest for most people to operate. After test driving, does the machine leave a well-prepared, fluffy seed-bed?

Lawn mowers. Variable speed drive offers a choice of working conditions, which is valuable because grass and mowing conditions vary. Opt for a mulching type of lawn mower if possible. Not only are they the most efficient, but they also are the most environmentally responsible. If looking at self-propelled mowers, try to find one with at least a five-horsepower motor. For the difference in price, it will last a lot longer than a smaller engine. For machines with baggers, test the bag. Look for ease of handling, removing, and emptying when full. If your yard is fairly even and free of debris, consider a push-reel mower.

String Trimmers. Try one long enough to determine if it is comfortable for you to use. Is it well balanced or too heavy? Correctly match the machine to your job at home. For grass edging, a small, curve-shaft trimmer should suffice. A mid-size trimmer will be more effective for weeds, but clearing the back forty acres may require a heavy-duty, two-handled model.

Hedge Trimmers. Make sure the tool can be sharpened; many cannot. Consider how much it weighs. Is it too heavy for you to operate comfortably for extended periods of time?

Leaf Blowers. Air speed and the volume of air the machine moves are equally important. Check the consistency of the sweep. Does it move material equally well at the edges and the center? If the machine has a vacuum attachment make sure material is not forced back through the fan blades.

What to Ask about Used Equipment

2010-01-29T04:09:00.000-08:00

The gamble of buying used equipment is you may just be getting someone else's headache. Without being too intrusive, you may want to approach this by asking if the seller still plans to garden. If so, then either the equipment no longer suits his purposes, or the gardener's sick of it!

Get as much information as possible from the seller about a piece of equipment you're considering buying. Following are some good questions to ask.

What is the make, model, and year of the machine? A used machine may have a warranty in effect.
What was the maintenance schedule?
Has the machine been adjusted or repaired?
Where can you take the machine for service when needed?
Why is the equipment for sale? (You may even get an honest answer.)

After you have gleaned as much information as possible from the seller, call a local dealer. Grill the dealer for information, especially on potential problems of that particular machine. Ask about specific things to look for in a used model.

Buying New or Used Gardening Tools

2010-01-29T02:31:00.000-08:00

If you have a Sunday newspaper handy, check the classified ads for used gardening equipment. From chippers to string trimmers, used equipment is a respectable market. Also look at yard sales and estate sales for used equipment.

When should you consider buying used equipment? The answer is if you are in the market for an item, and you find that the same investment will buy a better quality used machine than a new one. This is not all that unusual. Ask why the equipment is for sale. Two common reasons are the owner has either given up on gardening, or has purchased a more advanced model of machinery. Neither means there is anything necessarily wrong with the machine for sale.

NEW
Advantages
Warranty.
Broad choice of machines and
options.
No wear on working parts.
Clean and shiny. Looks great.
Service available when needed.

Disadvantages
Expensive.

USED
Advantage
Cheaper.

Disadvantages
No warranty.
May be worn out.
May need repairs.
Will have to find someone to
service it.

To Buy or Not to Buy

2009-12-31T11:15:00.000-08:00

I had always wanted the biggest rototiller I could get. I still don't have it, and now you couldn't give me one. I did, however, buy myself a chipper/shredder for Mother's Day one year. What makes gardener's spring for these big-ticket items? What are the alternatives to buying?

For me the rototiller became a non-necessity when I changed gardening styles. By forming raised beds, I eliminated the need for a tiller,

the soil stays soft, and is easy to turn with a spade in the spring. In fact, a tiller would make more work by tearing up the beds. But the shredder was different. Lots of barnyard critters, weeds, and pine cones add up to lots of waste that requires managing on a regular basis. The shredder makes quick work of turning mountains into molehills.

When considering adding tools to your gardening ensemble, take a hard look at how often you will use a new piece of equipment. If, like that heavy-duty rototiller, it will only see action a couple of times a year, think about renting one only when you need it. It is less convenient to pick it up, lug it home, and return it after use. But think about the perks. There are no maintenance costs, no storage, no parting with the purchase price, and you still save money. For example, a tiller, with a five-year warranty, sells for around $800. A similar machine rents for $40 an hour. You can rent that machine once a year for twenty years, or twice a year for ten years, before you spend the amount it would cost to buy it. Other "occasional-use" equipment you might consider renting include the chipper/shredder, hedge trimmers, and leaf blower.

Neighborly cooperation can go a long way to saving money as well. Get a nearby gardening friend or two to share your rental. Most rental companies charge just as much for the half-hour it takes to drive the machine home as they do for the time it is in use. By splitting the expense with others, you cut down on wasted rental time.

A Fix for Hoses

2009-12-31T11:14:00.000-08:00

My hoses seem to get shorter every year. That's because rather than throw them away after accidentally smashing the couplings or cutting them in half, I repair them.

There are two types of repair kits available at garden centers. They differ in how to secure the coupling. One type uses prongs that clamp down around the end of the hose, and the other applies a band at the hose end.

First cut away the damaged coupling or shredded section of hose. Soak the hose end in hot water for a few minutes to soften. If using a band repair kit, slide the band over the hose, and insert the fitting. Tighten the band as close to the coupling as possible. To repair with a prong-type kit, insert the fitting, and clamp the prongs down as tightly as possible with a pair of pliers.

Extend the Life of Wooden Tools

2009-12-31T11:11:00.000-08:00

You can extend the life of any wooden handle the day you buy it. Use fine sandpaper to remove the finish. With your bare hands or a soft rag, generously rub the handle with boiled linseed oil. The warmth from your hands will help work in the oil, or leave a rag-oiled handle in the sun to warm the oil into the wood. Tung oil or vegetable oils such as olive or safflower oils also make good preservatives. The result is a smooth, water-resistant finish. Replenish with another rub whenever the wood begins to lose its satin feel.
Replace cracked shovel or fork handles. Digging puts a lot of stress on these tools, and having one give out at the wrong moment can be dangerous. Repair splits in hoe or rake handles by prying them open, filling with wood glue or epoxy, clamping till dry, and sanding smooth. It's usually quicker just to replace the handle. Don't ever try to get by with wrapping tape around a cracked handle. It is cheap, but it only hides a potentially worsening problem.

Handles come in different styles, but the method of replacement is about the same. Begin by removing the old handle. There is usually a screw or rivet holding the handle in place. Take the screw or rivet out of the tool socket carefully, without altering the socket shape. You may have to bang the old handle out with a chunk of pipe.

Install the new handle by securing the tool head, spade or fork, in a vise and pushing the handle into the socket. Soak the handle in hot water or coat the socket with a little oil or soap to help the handle slide in easily, especially with curved sockets. Tap the handle as far as it will go. Prevent the new handle from ever flying free by drilling a hole and inserting a nut and bolt through the metal socket into the handle.

Hoes, Spades, Shovels, Forks, Rakes, and Edgers

2009-11-30T05:01:00.000-08:00

Keep a bucket of oily sand nearby for keeping tools clean and rust-free. Two things this type of tool deserves are a place to call home and a bucket of oily sand. Mix a bottle of vegetable oil in with clean construetion sand. After each use, hose off dirt and plunge the tool into the bucket with the sand and oil. The sand scours the metal, and the oil coats it preventing rust. Then hang up the tool in its proper spot. If the handles are wood, coat them with varnish, or rub with linseed or tung oil to preserve.

Hoes, spades, shovels, and edgers perform better if the edge is sharp. File tools to a sharp edge at least once a year.

The first rule is never misuse these cutting tools. They are meant to cut stems not wire. One wrong cut can ruin a good blade. Use soap and water to wash away sap or pitch; you may need a bit of turpentine or hand-cleaner for spots that are hard to remove. Scrub tool with steel wool to remove rust. Keep the moving parts lubricated with WD-40 or sewing machine oil. Check nuts and bolts periodically to make sure they are tight. Sharpen if cutting becomes difficult.

Understanding Planting Aids

2009-11-30T04:53:00.000-08:00

From starting seeds to maintaining full-grown plants, there is equipment for every step of the way. Almost anything you can buy for those jobs has a free or cheap substitute.

Seed-starting pots are available in plastic or peat. There is no reason to pay for either. Save pots and flats whenever you purchase plants and reuse them. If you purchase less plastic, then you will not have to pay to throw it away.

Soil thermometers can help you decide when to seed temperature-sensitive plants. However, with practice, and perhaps a little trial and error, you'll soon develop a ''feel" for soil temperature that's just as dependable. Just touching the soil will tell you if it's warm enough to plant.

Dibbles make holes in soil for placing seeds. A stick, pencil, or finger performs the same.

Labels are useful for remembering what you planted. Make your own by cutting waxed milk cartons into strips and writing on the plain side with a permanent market. Or push a stick through the seed packet and into the soil.

Plant ties and supports hold plants in place as they grow. Instead of using ties from the garden center, substitute cloth strips, plastic garbage bag ties, twine, or twist-ties, and your plants will never know the difference. Wire tomato cages are too small to support most mature tomato plants. They are great, though, as supports for many types of flowering plants. Use a pair of wire cutters to snip the cage just above the first horizontal wire for two small flower supports. For tomatoes and other vining crops, welded wire fencing, hopefully salvaged, makes a good support. Twine is great for many garden jobs, and it is often free from anyone who feeds baled hay to livestock. Metal fence posts are available in various lengths, are reasonably priced, will last forever, and will support the weight of any crop.

Plant protectors from waxed paper hot caps to entire greenhouses, can really extend the life of plants.

Comforts and Conveniences in gardening

2009-11-30T04:50:00.000-08:00

Some items just make gardening easier, and for that reason they may be worth the cost, but there are cheap substitutes you can use for quite a few of them.

Garden gloves protect your hands. Heavier material provides more protection. Cheap cloth gloves keep your hands clean. Heavy-duty leather gloves protect against thorns during pruning or brush-cutting, and guard against blisters after hours of hoeing or spading.

Knee pads or kneelers are valuable for anyone whose knees or back aches after weeding or performing other ground-work. Knee pads allow more free movement than a kneeler that must be picked up and moved every few minutes as you move.

Handle grips are rubber tubes that fit over tool handles, such as hoes, rakes, and spades. They reduce wear on both handles and hands. For a cheap substitute wrap handles with foam pipe insulation, and attach the foam neatly with electrical tape.

Wheelbarrows haul soil, garden waste, and other loads from one place to another. The bed, constructed of metal, plastic, or wood, attaches to one or two wheels, depending on the design. For large or heavy loads, the two-wheeled version is the easiest to use. Metal won't crack like plastic, but it will rust.

Understanding Watering equipment

2009-10-28T10:12:00.001-07:00

Watering equipment can be costly, but it may save you in the long run by lowering your water bills or pumping costs. Water containers are for carrying and dispensing water. Stores sell all kinds of expensive watering cans, but you can make cheap imitations. Plastic milk or water jugs are ideal. Punch holes in the bottom, put on the cap, and carry upside-down. Turn them over, and remove the cap to sprinkle water.

Garden hoses carry water from a faucet to its final destination. They vary in length and can be screwed together to cover long distances. Water pressure from the source forces water through the hose to the end. Rubber and vinyl hoses are the most common, and are available in 1/2-inch, 5/8-inch, 3/4-inch, and 1-inch diameters. Rubber lasts the longest and is least prone to kinking and splitting. For most uses a 5/8-inch size is the best buy. Look for hoses with a lifetime guarantee. Hoses go on sale in spring and fall.

Lawn sprinklers attach to a hose and spray water up and out. They are a tremendous improvement over hand watering for the time they save. Water pressure propels the spray in one of several patterns, with some types covering a larger area than others. The cheapest sprinklers cost between $5 and $8 and are small heads with holes punched in them. They rest on the ground and shoot water up over a limited area. These work all right for lawns, but in a border or vegetable garden the spray may be blocked by foliage. Rotating and pulse-jet sprinklers have moving parts that deliver an even spray. Impulse-jet types are the most versatile, because you can adjust them to water a range of patterns, including a full circle. Oscillating sprinklers have a rocking bar that sprays water. They are not the best for vegetable plots, flower borders, or landscaping plants, because so much water lands on foliage instead of near the roots. If you must use a sprinkler in these spots, elevate it with a step-ladder or other substitute so the spray lands unobstructed. Look for sales in spring and fall.
Drip irrigation systems deliver water through emitters to individual plants. They are great for putting just the right amount of water where needed, but can be costly to install.

Soaker hoses and porous hoses deliver water along their length either through a series of holes, the soaker hose, or through the porous skin. Use some soaker hoses to water lawns as the holes are large enough to send water spraying upward. Turn them over so the water sprays downward to water vegetables or flowers. These hoses conserve water by putting it only where desired by the gardener. Place one along each garden row, or wind through flower beds and landscaping, to save time moving them around. Attach a garden hose when ready to water. Though a soaker hose is a bigger initial expense than a garden hose or cheap sprinkler, the savings on water can pay for the hoses in a couple of seasons. They also will last indefinitely.

Timers shut the water off at a pre-determined time. Cheap ones simply turn it off after a preset time period, while you can program expensive computer models with a complete watering regime. Both models prevent waste from overwatering, but the less expensive mechanical type is simpler to use and should be sufficient for almost anyone.

Water gauges measure how much water lands at a given spot. Save money by placing an empty jar or can in areas you want to measure.

Gas- and Electric-Powered Tools for Your Garden

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Most power tools constitute a hefty initial investment, which must be worked off over a period of time. They also represent a monetary commitment to run; they require fuel or electricity, maintenance, and, occasionally, repairs. The trade-off is they save time and effort.

Chipper/shredders reduce garden waste by three-quarters or more. They can be a real boon if you are clearing brush, especially if you cannot burn. Chippers and shredders chop branches, twigs, and leaves into a homogenous mix which can be used as mulch. Shredders also can speed up the process of composting. Since the heavy-duty branch-eaters also make short work of leaves, they are the most versatile. Gas-powered models are the fastest and noisiest. Both types can be dangerous. Rototillers cultivate soil. Models range from 1 horsepower, lightweight tiller / cultivators, designed mainly for mechanized weeding, to 14 horsepower tillers, made for breaking new ground. Sharp digging tines rotate and cultivate the soil to depths varying from 4 to 8 inches. Considering that most plant roots penetrate at least 1 foot deep, a rototiller alone cannot prepare the soil deeply enough to accommodate them. The digging tines may be mounted in the front or rear of the machine. Except for the most powerful models, those designed with rear-mounted tines can be difficult to control at tilling depths greater than 3 inches. Rototillers can be dangerous; never buy one without a deadman control. This safety feature stops the machine and the turning tines when engaged. Lawn mowers cut grass. It's that simple. You may push, follow a self-propelled mower, or ride in style, but you are still simply cutting grass. The only real difference in cutting grass is how much you sweat, and whether the clippings are dropped, bagged, or mulched. Mulching mowers grind the clippings into tiny pieces that work their way back to the soil level. The tiny clippings provide beneficial mulch and eliminate waste. Self-propelled mowers generally cost at least $100 more than similar push-powered models, and the self-propelled models are twice as likely to need repairs. If your yard is small and level, you can get by with the less expensive push mower. If you have hills or a lot of ground to cover the self-propelled model may be better for you.

Some lawn-mower models have a blade-brake-clutch safety system which allows you to disengage the blade action without shutting down the engine. This is a real plus for moving the machine around when it's not actually cutting, say from the garage to the yard. Another helpful feature is a rear-bagging model, as opposed to a side-bagging one; they tend to be more maneuverable. Rear-wheel-drive machines, not front-wheel-drive models, have better traction. If you have physical limitations or a huge lot, a riding mower or lawn tractor may be necessary. Lawn tractors cost more but have the advantage of various accessories from garden carts to snow blades. They are also slightly less prone to repair jobs than riding mowers. Most lawn tractors can't rival the carpetlike evenness walk-behind mowers leave, and expect to spend more money. Don't even consider a lawn tractor without a deadman control in the seat. With the control, as soon as the driver leaves the seat, the engine stops. Tip: Lawn mowers go on sale after the Fourth of July.

String trimmers cut unruly herbaceous growth from weeds to overgrown grass. There are gas- and electric-powered models, but unless you have enough weeds to warrant the gas type, a good pair of garden shears will work instead. Some trimmers can also edge lawns; turn them so the string spins vertically.

Hedge trimmers are for yards with lots of big hedges. Gas-powered models are easy to use, cordless, and have little vibration. But they are loud and expensive. Electric trimmers are cheaper and more lightweight. Those with reciprocating blades, two blades cutting against each other are the most efficient. For most uses, a 16-inch blade is sufficient.

Leaf blowers move leaves. In a large area, a blower will save effort and time over a rake. There are hand-carried, back-pack, and push types, some with attachments. They are loud and expensive, and they take all the fun out of raking leaves.

Understanding Gardening Tools

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These are the fundamental tools necessary for gardening. They do not contribute to air or noise pollution, cost virtually nothing to operate, and require little cleaning and maintenance. Yet with a little people-power, these tools perform any task in the garden.

Cultivating tools primarily move around soil. They have a metal head and wooden, metal, or plastic handle. Look for carbon steel or stainless steel heads. If kept clean and dry between uses, carbon steel should not rust. Stainless steel is more expensive, but is rust-proof and makes work easier as soil falls away from it. Coatings on blades can wear off over time, making them a questionable expenditure. Wooden handles, such as hickory, are generally strong, and unlike metal or plastic, can be replaced if broken. Buy a handle that is of a comfortable length for you to use.

Forks loosen soil, cultivate, move bulky materials, such as weed piles and manure, and they lift root crops. In short, forks are versatile. Most forks have four, sturdy, metal prongs attached to a wooden or metal shaft. The best quality forks are those with the prongs and neck forged from a single piece of metal. Avoid forks pieced together or welded. Short-handled hand forks lift up plants and work well for knee-level weeding.

Hoes cultivate, weed, and form seed rows. They may have long or short handles with a blade attached. There are several types of hoes with specific uses. A Dutch hoe or scuffle hoe works well to remove small, surface weeds around plants. A combination hoe has prongs on one side for breaking up soil and a blade on the other for chopping or moving around soil. A triangular hoe creates V-shaped furrows. Hand hoes have short handles and small, narrow blades for cultivating between closely spaced plants.

Rakes create an even and level soil surface as well as rake debris. A forged metal, toothed head, attached to a wooden or metal handle, pulls material. Those with the most teeth work the fastest, because they cover more ground each time you rake. Flathead rakes last longer than bow-head types. Lawn rakes compared to cultivating rakes, are lightweight, and have flexible tines designed to move light debris such as leaves or mown grass.

Spades and shovels dig and turn soil. Splurge on a stainless steel one if you can, as it takes a lot of strain out of digging. A rounded spade turns over soil, while a pointed shovel digs into the ground as well.

Trowels are mini-shovels, great for digging small transplanting holes. They are especially handy for working in containers.

Other cultivating tools include pronged and tooth-wheeled models. The prongs or teeth break up the soil, but work well only after the soil has already been cultivated, and only to a shallow depth.

Pruning tools cut woody growth. Pruning is necessary to keep many plants in their prime . Short- or long-handled pruners, saws, and knives are examples of hand-held pruning tools.
Pruners work like scissors to snip branches. Buy pruners that give a clean, crisp cut. Ragged edges can leave plants open to infection. Get the best-quality stainless- or carbon-steel blade you can afford. Bypass pruners are the most versatile. Anvil pruners, unless kept very sharp, crush stems. Coated grips are worth the expense; they are more comfortable to use than bare steel.

Loppers are long-handled pruners used to cut branches in hard-to-reach places. The leverage created by the long handles makes cutting small branches a snap, and the shears can handle limbs 2 inches thick or more.

Tree pruners cut high branches. They work on a lever system, and some models can extend your reach up to 15 feet high. For most jobs though, a ladder and loppers will suffice.

Saws prune heavy branches. Of the several types available, a Grecian saw is one of the most versatile. It has a curved handle and teeth designed to cut only as you pull towards youself, making it easier to use in tight spaces. Bow saws work quickly, but are unwieldy to use in close quarters.

Knives have many uses in the garden. Use them for pruning, taking cuttings, grafting, and harvesting. A good pocket knife with a sharp, carbon-steel blade is a fine investment.

Shears can trim hedges, snip grass, cut back perennials, or create topiary masterpieces. Look for those with straight, sharp blades on sturdy wooden handles.

Lawn-care tools control where and how your grass grows.

Edgers make a clean cut at the border where grass meets another ground cover, such as pavement or planting beds. A sharp, half-moon-shaped head slices away sod. A sharp spade or garden knife does the same job.

Hand-held weeders such as ball weeders or a notched asparagus knife are useful for popping weeds out of the lawn without tearing up the turf.

Push-reel mowers may be a relic whose time has returned. Rotating blades cut grass evenly and provide a workout at the same time. Compared to motorized models, they are cheap to purchase, and they don't have any operating costs, except for occasionally sharpening the blades. Push-reel mowers also don't emit pollutants from burning fuel.

Spreaders apply fertilizer to lawns. There is a shoulder-carried version in which you turn a crank to spin granules out onto the lawn. But the more useful option is a hopper on wheels that you push. Most let you adjust the rate of application to your needs.

Save water through Planning

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Most of us have more water than we know what to do with. Even in and regions there are occasional deluges of rain. Rainbarrels are not a new idea, but still a useful one. Position clean, empty barrels beneath downspouts or up on blocks around the garden. Barrels, positioned a few inches above the ground, can incorporate spigots and drip tubing for a cheap, gravity-flow irrigation system. A barrel positioned high above the ground creates strong water pressure, and far-flowing water. This time-honored method is excellent for flower or vegetable gardens.

Lawns are water hogs. They also consume their share of fertilizer, mowing time, and expense. Compared to native landscaping or a xeriscaped yard they are a ludicrous luxury. (Xeriscaping is the landscaping art of combining drought-tolerant plants, garden design, and water-conserving tactics to create a low-maintenance landscape.)

Consider reducing water and other bills by creating a smaller lawn. You may even find that by enlisting the services of a paid professional landscaper, you could save buckets of money. Or try gradually replacing some of the grass with less thirsty landscape plants.

Be aware of which plants require the most water. Group them together so you don't waste water on plants that don't need it. Plants such as rhododendrons, azaleas, and ferns need more water than cacti. Also, if your yard has a naturally moist microclimate, put the water hogs there, not on the driest point of the property. Consider landscape points of interest that doesn't require water, such as a dry creek-bed of rock. Make it appear wet by varnishing the rocks. Position sprinklers to avoid watering sidewalks, streets, decks, and other structures; they won't grow.

Water Loss Means We All Lose

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In a perfect world every drop of water you put on your plants would run straight to the roots and would be used immediately by the plant. But we have to deal with water loss. Knowing how to reduce it saves water and money.

Moisture is lost from the soil in several ways, but you can cut these losses. By incorporating lots of humus into the soil, you will lessen the amount of water that percolates through the soil and out of reach. Humus is a water magnet. A lot of water is also lost through evaporation from the soil surface. Thanks to capillary action through the soil, which draws water up from below, evaporation can deplete water from deep in the ground. Keeping the soil surface covered with mulch (see pages 109111) protects against this. Another line of defense against evaporation is to get less of the soil surface wet in the first place. This means replacing a sprinkler with a drip system, soaker hose, or individual water containers for landscape or large vegetable plants. Finally, transpiration, the way in which plants metabolize water, can steal amazing quantities of water from your soil. One large shade tree on a hot sum mer day can transpire several hundred gallons of water. Misting plants on hot, dry days helps limit the amount transpired and reduces plant stress.

As mentioned, air evaporation is also a major water waster if you use an overhead sprinkler. Water early in the morning or at night for the least water loss. If you want to keep your water bill down, never water during hot, windy weather.

How Much Water Is Just Right?

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While there is no one answer to the question of how much water is just right for all gardens, there are some useful general guidelines. The most efficient and cost-effective way to water any plant is to fill the entire root zone with water, and let the soil become almost dry be fore the next watering. The amount of dryness depends on the plant. Let the top 2 or 3 inches dry out for most established plants. Let the soil around a large tree dry down several inches, but keep new or tiny plants moist to the top inch or so of soil.

Water most plants deeply and infrequently. When using a sprinkler, measure how many inches of water you apply by setting jars at intervals along sprinkler pathways. This will also tell you if the sprinkler gives even coverage.

Remember soil type affects how much water is necessary. Water sandy soils more frequently than clay soil. To make sure you are delivering enough water to where it is needed, use a soil probe or shovel before you water to determine the extent of dryness. Repeat the process after watering to see how deeply the water has penetrated into the soil.

Lawns. Use an overhead sprinkler. Water to a depth of at least 6 inches as soon as grass fails to spring up after walking on it. Avoid frequent, shallow waterings as they lead to shallow roots, which are far more susceptible to heat or drought. Aeration, or removal of soil plugs, helps send water to the root zone. Renting an aerator every other year or so also will help to reduce thatch build-up and combat compaction.

Vegetables, Bedding Plants, and Perennials. Water 6 to 12 inches deep every four to ten days for established plants. Don't wait for plants to wilt before the next watering. Wilting slows growth and reduces crop yields.

Soaker hoses or drip irrigation are efficient ways to water here. They can save up to 60 percent of the water used by a sprinkler. Place mulch over the hose to prevent evaporation.

A cheap version of drip irrigation is container watering. Bury a container, such as a plastic 1-gallon milk jug that has had 2 or 3 holes punched in the bottom, next to or between individual plants. Keep the containers filled with water and allow them to seep water directly into plant root zones. Tailor the size of the container to the size of the plant.

Sprinklers are not the best for vegetable gardens because they waste a vast amount of water. More water lands on the leaves, where it evaporates, than anywhere else. Hand watering is as much a waste of time as it is water. Unless you stand there for a few hours with a water wand, you cannot wet the soil deeply enough to do a worthwhile job.

Cultivate unmulched soil to increase water absorption. Crusted soil forms a barrier against water penetration.
Trees, Shrubs, and Landscape Plants. Water throughout the drip line of plants for the most efficient intake of water. Soaker hoses (see page 31) allow you to wind around individual plants. They are great for such shrubs as roses that are susceptible to moisture-loving disease organisms. Since no water rests on the leaves the diseases can't establish their spores. To allow water to slowly seep down into the soil, mound a ridge of soil around the outside of the drip line to form a basin and fill with water. Remove this soil during rainy weather to prevent waterlogged roots.

Plants on landscape berms. Check and water more frequently since they have more exposed soil from which water may evaporate.

New woody transplants. Water thoroughly both the nursery soil within the root ball and the native soil surrounding it. Failure to do so may prevent the roots from venturing into the surrounding soil, which can eventually kill the plant. Dead plants are an investment wasted.

Plants in containers. Water as soon as the surface feels dry. Keep a close eye on thirsty plants such as fuschias, which often need watering once or twice daily in hot, dry weather.

Watering your plants

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If you still use a lawn sprinkler to water a vegetable garden or landscape planting, or if you use an overhead watering system on hot, windy days you are wasting water. The idea of watering is to deliver an adequate amount of water to plant roots, no more, no less, and nowhere else.

There are several factors that determine how much water you need to apply and the best method of application. For starters, rainfall is a factor. No matter what plants you are watering in what type of soil, the amount of watering necessary depends on how much nature already supplies.

Another factor is the soil type. Remember that sandy soils drain quickly and that clay holds moisture for a longer period of time. These are functions of how the water moves through the soil, which affects its availability to plant roots. One inch of water applied in sandy soil will percolate down 12 inches. In good loam 1 inch of water will go down 6 to 10 inches, and in clay it will penetrate about 4 or 5 inches. Once water has filtered down beneath plant root zones it is effectively gone.

Finally, consider the plants you are watering. Some plants need much more water than others. New plants, from seeded lawns to bedding transplants and burlap-balled shrubs, require lots of frequent watering to establish their roots. On the other hand, established native plants need very little rainfall supplementation; they have naturally adapted to the area. Some plants, such as madrona, flannel bush, and western dogwood, suffer if watered in the summer.

Understanding Soil Acidity

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Acidity and alkalinity describe measurements of the pH balance. The pH level is measured on a scale from 1 to 14. 1 is extremely acidic, 14 extremely alkaline, and 7 is neutral. Each number represents a tenfold difference in acidity or alkalinity. Soil that has a pH of 6 is ten times more acidic than soil with a pH of 7. Most plants prefer a slightly acidic soil, while some, such as blueberries, prosper only in very acidic soils. Very high or very low pH affects the availability of soil elements to plants, which makes pH a key factor in nutrient supply.

Gardeners commonly alter pH with lime and sulfur products. Lime raises pH (reduces acidity) and sulfur lowers pH (raises acidity). Since young plants are very sensitive to pH levels, add amendments the season before you plant to give the additive time to change the acid balance. Often gardeners are impatient and don't give purchased products a fair chance to work, simply another waste of money. Also, apply lime at least thirty days prior to using fertilizers; they bind each other up when applied together, essentially wasting the money spent on both products.

Other soil additives also affect pH balance. When applied heavily, manures, sludge, peat moss, coffee grounds, and high-nitrogen fertilizers raise acidity.

A Guide on Organic Fertilizers

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You know you want humus or organic matter and also that other nutrients are necessary for soil and plant health. But before you run down to the garden center, let's consider some alternative low-cost soil
amendments, where you can get them, and how they will help your garden.

Compost. Your own backyard is the best and cheapest place to find this valuable soil amendment . You also will find it in the garden center's soil amendment section. Also, cities and counties are getting into the act with community composting. You can find huge heaps of the stuff near your local trash dump. Bring your own containers or a pick-up truck, and get your share for nothing or a nominal fee.

Mushroom compost. If you happen to live near a mushroom grower, they are an excellent source for low-cost or free compost. Mushrooms are grown indoors in huge containers filled with fine, dark, crumbly compost. Before growers plant mushroom spawn in containers, they steam-sterilize the compost. After a couple of months, growers harvest the mushrooms and clear out the bins. This used compost is still rich in nutrients and organic matter. A few little mushrooms may pop up, but since you know they are an edible variety, eat up.

Sewage sludge. Plants treat sewage for disposal using two methods, anaerobic digestion and air activation. Digested sludge is much lower quality as a fertilizer than the activated type. Activated sludge is usually much more expensive. Either type of heat-treated sludge is safe to use around your yard and garden. Inquire at your local treatment plant.

Green manures. When you spade green vegetation into the soil, you add precious organic matter, nutrients, and moisture. Green leaves, weeds, grass clippings, and cover crops such as clovers, buckwheat, rye, and oats return nitrogen, carbon, trace minerals, and other nutrients to the soil when turned under. Legumes, such as clover and alfalfa, make exceptional cover crops because they take nitrogen from the air, and convert it into a usable form for plants. One word of caution: If your plants go to seed, don't turn them into your garden soilunless you want more of them.

Animal manures. Where there are animals, there will be manure. The first rule is never use cat, dog, or swine manure in your garden. These types of manure harbor parasites and disease organisms that can be harmful to your health.

Racetracks, livestock breeding farms, dairy farms, rabbit runs, poultry farms, petting zoos, and non-petting zoos often are overjoyed to have someone actually volunteer to haul the manure away! Most manures should not be used fresh in the garden; salts will burn plant roots. Compost it first, or spread it over the soil in the fall so it has time to mellow.
Rendering plants. Organic gardeners are familiar with additives such as blood meal (rich in nitrogen), hoof and horn meal (high in nitrogen, phosphorus, and calcium), and bone meal (rich in nitrogen, phosphorus, and calcium). These are by-products of the slaughtering process and originate at rendering plants. Purchased in small quantities, these products are usually quite expensive. Most rendering plants sell these only in bulk, such as 25-ton tractor/trailer loads. Make friends with a plant worker who may be able to get you a smaller quantity!

Restaurants. Coffee grounds from espresso bars or coffee brewers are a good source of nitrogen. Ask the brewer to empty coffee grounds into a container for you to pick up once a week. The grounds are fairly acidic and useful in lowering pH levels when heavily applied.

Lumber mills. Sawdust is the by-product of turning trees into boards. Composed of cellulose, sawdust is a good form of organic matter for your garden. Don't add more than 2 inches each year as it requires a lot of nitrogen to decompose. For each ton of sawdust, a garden burns about 31/2 pounds of pure nitrogen. Offset this by adding 17 pounds of ammonium sulfate, 11 pounds of ammonium nitrate, or 8 pounds of urea. Avoid cedar sawdust, because it is toxic to some seedlings. Alderwood dust decomposes more quickly than others, such as fir or hemlock.

Don't waste money giving plants more nutrient supplements than they can absorb.

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The major elements are those listed on plant food labels as N (nitrogen), P (phosphorus), and K (potassium, available as potash or K2O). Many soils are naturally high or low in any of these, but nitrogen is the most water soluble, and therefore the most likely to leach away (and into ground-water supplies). Adding more nitrogen than plants can take up is a waste of money.

The elements plants use less of are called secondary elements. They are no less critical to healthy growth than the major elements; plants just require smaller doses of them. They are calcium (Ca), magnesium (Mg), and sulfur (S). Don't waste money by adding these to your soil on a yearly basis, because plants take them in slowly, and they don't leach away. A single application usually lasts several years.
Trace or micronutrients are those that plants require only small amounts of. They include boron (B), manganese (Mn), copper (Cu), zinc (Zn), iron (Fe), molybdenum (Mo), and chlorine (Cl). Short of a soil test, the best way to tell if you need to add any of these is by plant response.

Is Your Soil Nutritious?

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So you agree humus is good stuff. But will your soil contain all the nutrients necessary for healthy plant growth if all you add to it is humus? You already know incorporating organic matter that becomes humus means you will probably have to add nitrogen. Plants also need many other nutrients.
With the exception of carbon, which plants take from carbon dioxide in the air, as well as hydrogen and oxygen, which they derive from water, all other elements plants use must come directly from the soil. So what do they need?

Start with healthy soil for healthier, longer-lived plants

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Thou shalt not skimp on soil preparation! The more you put into your soil, the more you will get out of it. What, you may ask, is the big deal? Dirt is still dirt, right? The truth is your soil health predicts the health of your entire garden. Rich, healthy soil sustains healthy plants that are more productive and give you the best possible return for your gardening investment. They also cost little or nothing in pesticides, fertilizers, and replacement.

For a better understanding, look at the functions of soil in your garden. Soil provides physical support for the plants and a reservoir for

nutrients, water, and oxygen. Some soils do the second part better than others. Sandy soils drain quickly, providing plenty of oxygen, but they also lose water, and dissolve nutrients too quickly. Clay holds minerals and moisture well, but drains poorly. The magic ingredient for improving either type of soil, or any type in between, is humus.

Humus is organic matter that has gone through a degrading experience. Organic matter is the remains of previously living things, such as plants, micro-organisms, bugs, and us. When added to sandy soils, humus improves water retention by attracting water molecules. When added to clay, humus improves drainage by breaking up the clay particles that naturally cling together. Humus also provides fuel for millions of micro-organisms that reside in the soil. As they break it down, the micro-organisms release elements necessary for plant growth.

High levels of humus are a sign of well-managed soil. It is best to add small amounts of humus each year and build it up, rather than dump it all on in one application. This is important because in the process of decaying organic matter, micro-organisms tie up precious soil nitrogen, which must be replenished. A good rule of thumb is to add not more than 4 inches of organic matter each year to any garden area.

Incorporating humus into your garden can be as cheap or expensive as you make it. Not surprisingly, the cheaper ways are more work than the expensive ones. The ideal way to incorporate humus is to compost. Barnyard manures also provide plenty of partially processed organic matter. Of course, garden centers offer bags of dried organic matter in the form of peat moss, processed compost, and steer manure. The advantage of compost, manures, or commercial products containing fertilizers is they also contain soil nutrients, usually including necessary nitrogen. So while it is less expensive to compost your own, the good news about buying bags of fertilizer is your money will be well-spent.

Mix Your Own Soil

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A standard formula for mixing planting medium is:

1 part soil
1 part peat moss
1 part perlite, vermiculite or sharp, clean sand
1 part compost (optional)

Find a container large enough to suit your needs and stir in the above ingredients until thoroughly mixed type of plant. The biggest mistake gardeners make with containers is shoveling garden soil into them. It compacts when used in containers. Compacted soil squeezes out oxygen, dries out easily, and is difficult to wet again thoroughly. All this results in unhealthy plants. Even though dirt from your yard is free, to use it alone in containers will cost you.

There are countless reliable growing mediums sold in garden centers, and they are a good investment. But, you can mix your own for less money than you can buy it.

You can incorporate garden soil in your mix to save some money. Use only a rich, loamy soil and sift out any clods, stones, sticks, or other foreign matter. Healthy transplants and established plants can tolerate raw soil in the mix. If you are starting seeds, however, pasteurize the soil you add to your mix: Garden soil teems with tiny life-forms, from visible bugs to invisible ones. This is a dirty, smelly job and a great argument for germination mixes without soil. To kill off all soilborne organisms properly, heat soil to over 140°F for about thirty minutes. You can do this with pans in an oven.

Customize mixes for the type of plants you are growing. For plants requiring free drainage, such as cacti or succulents, add an extra part of sand or perlite. For those with specific nutritional requirements, mix in fertilizer accordingly.

The container. As for the containers you should use, there are a few things to consider. Will you be raising food or ornamentals in them? Never grow food crops in containers that have previously contained something unknown or questionable. Plant roots transport many toxins; they could end up on your dinner table. Also, the container must have drainage holes at the bottom. A larger container requires more and larger holes. Poor drainage kills off more plants than anything else.
The material the container is made of can affect the plants. Metal containers get very hot in direct sun and transmit the heat to tender plant roots. Black plastic pots absorb more heat than light-colored ones. But many plants, such as poinsettias, must have their roots in a dark environment. Wood containers may harbor fungi. Stone or brick containers absorb heat, and release it slowly. Terra cotta or clay pots are decorative, but they absorb water away from plant roots. Peat pots also absorb water from roots.

Lovely, decorative containers abound in trendy garden centers, and they can set you back a few bucks if you must have them. But creativity and an eye for unusual items are free.

Salvage an old pair of cowboy boots, and fill them to overflowing with lobelia or ivy geraniums. An old wheelbarrow makes a purposeful planter, deep enough for carrots, large enough for broccoli, and decorative enough for a variety of flowers and trailing vines. Wooden crates, dented metal buckets, plastic-lined wicker baskets, hollowed-out logs, leaky watering cans, antique milk cans, discarded lunch boxes, junked, claw-footed bathtubs, unseaworthy rowboats or canoes, and countless other finds make fun, functional, frugal planters. See what you can find.

Exploit Microclimates

2009-06-23T08:55:00.000-07:00

To understand microclimates a little better, let's look at a typical house and yard, as illustrated. The north side of the house is shady from mid-morning through the end of the day. The east side receives morning sun, but not direct sun in the afternoon. The south side's yard receives full sun all day long. And the west side of the house doesn't get full sun until mid-day, but then bakes until dusk. Each side of the house has a different set of growing conditions and is a distinct microclimate. Additional landscaping will create even more microclimates. A white painted fence along the yard, a pond, trees, and bushes will produce different growing conditions for plants near them. Why should the cash-conscious gardener care about microclimates? Because if you plant things where they don't like to grow, it's a waste of money, time, and effort. Plants all have their own unique growing requirements. Some plants thrive in shade, while others falter there for lack of sunlight. When assessing your site, note your microclimates. They will help you decide what plants to grow and where to put them.

Elements you really need to start a garden

2009-06-23T08:53:00.000-07:00

What elements do you really need to start a garden? The simple requirements are soil, water and seed. But what about location of the soil, the type of soil, and its structure and content? How much water is necessary, and how will you deliver it? Thousands of seeds in garden varieties are available. How will you narrow your choices? Do you really want seeds, or should you get transplants instead? See what I mean, it's simple.

Let's begin with the first choice every budding gardener must make: the site of the garden. Whether you are landscaping a small, city plot or planting a large, country garden, you still must take stock of your site first.

Imagine what you'd do if you could choose the perfect garden site.

The Perfect Garden Site Avoids:

® Low-lying pockets. Frost settles in low areas, air does not circulate freely.

® Exposed hilltops. Exposure to wind and temperature extremes makes gardening a challenge.

® North-facing slopes. They receive less sun and are often cooler than surrounding areas.

® Shade, if planning a fruit or vegetable garden.

® Compacted ground, such as former parking lots or areas where
heavy machinery has been used. It's murder to convert such areas into decent growing soil.

® Subsoil. Unfortunately, this describes almost all new housing sitesas well as parking lots, because contractors often scrape away precious topsoil.

® Sand or clay. Both extremes have their challenges.

The Perfect Garden Site Features:

® A gentle south-facing slope. It will receive full sun and the slope facilitates both water drainage and air circulation.

® Well-draining soil. Test by digging a 1-foot-deep hole, and filling it with water. If it takes more than a few hours to drain, you may want to take steps to improve the drainage. (See "Soil Toil," page 9.)

® Fertile, friable loam, rich in humus. Nobody ever just finds soil like this; it takes years of building. But it is nice to dream about it in a perfect site.

® Full sun. Many plants prefer it, and you can surround those that require shade with trees, shrubs, or garden structures.

® Available water. Realistically, how far are you willing to lug the garden hose?

Make the Most of Your Site by Finding Out About:

® The average rainfall for your area.

® The average first and last frost dates, from which you can then calculate your anticipated growing season.

® Low temperatures in your area and your USDA Zone designation.

® Your soil's pH.

And Consider Such Facts As:

® Gardens in cities are warmed by the artificial environment surrounding them, which extends the natural growing season. Plants and gardeners also must be able to tolerate air pollution.

® Seaside gardens get whipped by salty winds, but are buffered from sudden temperature changes.

® Nearby bodies of water substantially change the immediate growing conditions. They retain heat through the day and release it over a prolonged period of time.

® Higher elevations usually mean lower temperatures.

Mulching for your bulbs

2009-05-27T08:20:00.000-07:00

Mulch helps keep down weeds, can add organic matter to the soil, retains moisture, and stabilizes the soil temperatures. Stable soil temperatures are important so the bulbs don’t sprout too soon and risk freezing damage from a late spring cold snap.
Shredded leaves, compost, or bark chips are all fine choices for mulch. Sprinkle it lightly around your bulbs just after planting them or when they’re up and growing. And add some more mulch after the show is completely over.

Fertilizing bulbs

2009-05-27T08:17:00.000-07:00

Although newly planted bulbs have all the stored foods they need to perform the following spring, annual fertilizing can help keep this show going year after year.
A general-purpose fertilizer works fine for bulbs. A higher phosphorus content is often recommended simply because it inspires root growth as well as flower production. So go ahead and use the 5-10-5 or something close to this ratio.
People often recommend bone meal for bulbs, with its approximate formulation of 2.5-24-0. Alas, modern-day, store-bought bone meal is highly sanitized, and its benefits are questionable. Nonetheless, some bulb enthusiasts swear by it. This natural material tends to be very slow to release it nutrients, so some gardeners prefer using super phosphate instead; this material is rock phosphate that has been treated with sulfuric acid to make it more soluble. It’s 20 percent phosphorous (0-20-0).
Some people debate over where to place the fertilizer. In the hole? On the soil surface (top-dressing)? The case for adding plant food to the planting hole is that it’s right at the roots, where plants need it (some people are concerned that direct contact with fertilizer will burn a bulb or its roots, but not all bulbs are so fragile). The case for soil-surface feeding is that the nutrition can filter into the growing area more gradually.
What to do? Try whichever way is more convenient for you, and judge the results. You can always switch methods.
You need to fertilize only once, and you have three opportunities to do so:

At planting time (usually in the fall): Fertilizing at planting time gets the bulbs off to a good start.
As growth starts, usually in early spring: This fertilizing improves the current season’s display. Individual plants will be more robust, with brighter, longer-lasting blooms.
Post-bloom: While the foliage dies down naturally, this little boost sends food down to the bulb to fuel next year’s show. The standard application rate for fertilizer is a tablespoon or small handful per square foot, but read the label on the fertilizer package for exact directions.

Always apply fertilizer to damp ground, and water it in afterwar

Watering your bulbs

2009-05-27T08:14:00.000-07:00

Just like grocery-store onions, bulbs rot with too much moisture. And yet, they need water to generate roots and get growing. But don’t fret — there’s no mystery or careful balancing act. Just grow bulbs in well-drained soil; they can use the water they need, and any excess moisture should drain away. Fall-planted, spring-flowering bulbs have it easy if you live where fall rains water them in and spring rains wake them up. (Of course, in an uncharacteristic dry spell, you can provide supplemental water.) Summer- and fallbloomers appreciate water most when they’re beginning to emerge and again when they open their flower buds. Water at these times only if the soil is dry.

Putting in the bulb

2009-04-26T10:47:00.000-07:00

You want the nose, or growing point, to point up and the roots, or basal plate from which they’ll grow, to point down. (If you can’t tell, plant the bulb on its side — the plant will figure it out in due course! Botanists call this nifty skill gravitropism.) Make sure the bottom of the bulb is in contact with soil; if you leave an air pocket, the roots can dry out and the bulb won’t grow or won’t grow very well.
As you scoop soil back into the hole, firmly press it in place to prevent
air pockets. Water well (some settling will occur) and then add a bit
more soil as needed. Indicate where you’ve planted your bulbs so you don’t plant other flowers in
the same place. Mark the locations with perm

Adding a fertilizer for bulbs

2009-04-26T10:45:00.000-07:00

Use a fertilizer that has a higher phosphorus number, such as a 5-10-5 fertilizer Phosphorus (the P in the N-P-K on fertilizer labels) is important for the root growth as well as flower production. Just sprinkle the fertilizer in the bottom of the hole and scratch it in so it mixes with the soil a bit. If the ground is bone dry, water a day or so before planting so the ground is damp but not muddy when you’re planting the bulbs. If you want to wait to fertilize, you can scratch the fertilizer into the surface of the soil in the spring as the bulbs are growing.

Digging the hole for Bulbs

2009-04-26T10:37:00.000-07:00

photography by Margaret MacGillivray of http://www.plantsforprofit.com

If you’re planting only a few bulbs or you’re spot-planting (tucking bulbs in among other plants in a mixed bed), use a trowel. Various bulb planters are on the market, but frankly, I don’t find them very useful unless the soil is loose. If you’re planting lots of bulbs, break out the shovel and make a trench.
Not all bulbs are the same size, so not all bulbs should be planted the same depth. The general rule is three times as deep as the bulb’s height. This guideline varies a bit based on your soil type. In sandier soils, you can plant a little deeper; in heavy clay soils, a little shallower. If you forget how deep to plant your bulbs, consult the supplier’s label or catalog. Too shallow, and your bulbs may poke their heads above the soil surface too early and get damaged by wintry weather; too deep, and they’ll take longer to emerge.
Roots grow out of the bottom of the bulb, so the quality of the soil underneath it is more important than what you pack the hole with. If you’re amending the soil with organic material like compost or sphagnum moss, dig somewhat deeper-than-recommended holes so you can accommodate this addition. Distance apart varies with the type of bulb and the sort of display you have in mind. If you crowd the bulbs underground, the eventual show may suffer. Certainly, don’t let the bulbs touch one another. The general rule is at least three bulb-widths apart “on center” (from the center of one bulb to the center of the next). But experience can tell you what the bulbs you’ve chosen tolerate and how dense you like your displays.

Naturalizing: Plants gone wild

2009-03-29T03:34:00.000-07:00

Naturalizing is just a gardening term (and a rather sensible one, actually) to describe bulbs usually planted in large informal drifts, where they remain undisturbed and multiply. You can naturalize in a grassy area, under fruit trees or other deciduous trees, at the edge of a wooded area, or on an embankment. You want a semiwild area, because the bulb foliage should be able to die down undisturbed after the plants finish blooming. Over time, the bulbs tend to increase their numbers, spreading out the show with each passing year, with virtually no effort from you.
To begin, invest in a large amount of good-quality bulbs. On planting day, literally toss them out over the chosen area and plant them where they land. This display ends up looking more spontaneous and, well, natural.

Planting Bulbs in Containers

2009-03-29T03:33:00.000-07:00

Growing bulbs in containers handily solves every display problem. Individual plants can get exactly the sort of soil and planting depth they prefer. When the bulbs come into bloom, you can place them front and center on your porch or patio or even tuck them into a flowerbed and enjoy them at their peak. You can turn or elevate the container to show off the flowers to best advantage. And when the blooms and foliage begin to fade away, you can move the plants out of sight and replace them with pots of fresh reinforcements. Something about a potful of blooming bulbs is so immediate and perky.
They’re right before your very eyes, cheerily delivering their jolt of color. You can line your front steps with them or place a pot in the middle of the patio table, like a living bouquet.
Pots dry out faster than garden-bed soil. Keep your potted bulbs watered. Consistent water (that is, every day or two instead only when the plants are gasping) leads to a healthier, longer-lasting show. Also, if you’re in a cold climate, be sure to pot your bulbs in containers that can freeze without breaking, like plastic.
One drawback: In most climates, bulbs grown in containers are spent after one blooming cycle. If you enjoyed them, you have to start over next year with fresh new bulbs, unless the pot is large enough for the bulbs to go through their dormancy and remain in good health.

Planting Bulbs in Flowerbeds

2009-03-28T23:14:00.001-07:00

Flowering bulbs are very happy in prepared flowerbeds. They receive the good, loose soil they relish and the elbow room they need. Here are two good approaches:

Bedding schemes: Perhaps you’ve seen these beds in public display gardens: broad areas devoted to nothing but, say, tulips. The mass of color can be very impressive. You can prepare these flowerbeds at home. Pick a nice, open spot, choose a large amount of the same or very similar bulbs (in terms of color, height, and/or bloom time), and plant them fairly close together.
Mixed beds: Bulbs are only part of the show in a mixed bed; they can share the stage with early-blooming perennials, some colorful annuals, and perhaps a few sheltering shrubs. The overall show never declines: Whether you’re waiting for the bulbs to burst into bloom or waiting for their fading foliage to die down, you always have something to look at and enjoy.

Keeping your cool: The skinny on forcing bulbs

2009-02-25T21:59:00.000-08:00

Forcing bulbs may sound cruel, but the term merely means that you’re encouraging the plants to bloom early by treating them in a special way. You can force potted bulbs into early bloom, but they still need 8 to 16 weeks to chill (generally the larger the bulb, the longer the chilling time). Place the bulbs in the fridge, in an unheated garage that doesn’t freeze, on chilly basement stairs, or in a cold frame (a wooden or concrete block box buried in the outside soil during the cold months). Some of the easiest and most popular bulbs to force are paperwhites.
As soon as you pot the bulbs you want to force, you have to keep them cool and the soil lightly damp. If the soil dries out, their roots won’t form, and if the temperatures are too warm, the flower buds in the bulbs may end up being blind or will blast (they’ll shrivel and never develop into full blossoms).
Forcing spring bulbs has two stages, and the first is the rooting period. For the rooting stage, place the potted bulbs in any cool (40–50°F), dark spot for 10 to 16 weeks. Some varieties take longer than others. Don’t worry if the temperatures aren’t in this range every day; the temperature range is just the ideal. The important point is that the bulbs are in a cool, not freezing, place to root. A refrigerator is perfect. Tip: Before moving the potted bulbs to the next stage, look at the drainage holes in the pots. Roots should be growing out of the holes; if they aren’t, put the potted bulbs back into a cool, dark area until they are. One of the most common ways people fail in this game is by not allowing the bulbs to root sufficiently before going to the next stage. Alternatively, the bulbs may be ready to come out of the big chill when you see at least an inch of top growth and the bulbs don’t move when you try to wiggle them by hand. After the bulbs are well-rooted, you can move them to the growing-on phase, where the foliage starts to grow and the eventually bulb blooms. First, you want the bulbs to adjust to warmer temperatures and higher light, so place the rooted bulbs in their containers in a cool, bright spot that’s around 60°F for a few weeks. Remember to keep the soil lightly moist. Next, move the bulbs to an area that’s slightly warmer — mid to high 60s — and very bright to finish the plant’s growing-on cycle. A sunny, south-facing windowsill is fine. Turn the pots a quarter turn each day; otherwise, the stems will lean toward the light. You can also place the bulbs so their foliage is a few inches from a two-tube, or preferably four-tube, fluorescent light fixture.
The bulbs should bloom in about three to four weeks. The blossoms will last longer if you move the bulbs to a spot that’s cool (in the lower 60s) and not quite as bright (without direct sunlight).

Planting summer-blooming bulbs

2009-02-25T21:58:00.000-08:00

Most summer-bloomers, such as gladioli, calla lilies, dahlias, tuberous begonias, and crocosmias, love warm soil and toasty summer sun. If you garden in a mild climate (Zones 8 to 10), you can plant these bulbs in the early spring and expect flowers by summer. If you garden in a colder area, early spring planting isn’t feasible. Instead, wait until late spring or early summer — the same time locals plant tomatoes outside — or start bulbs early indoors in a warm spot and care for them until danger of frost has passed; then you can move the plants outdoors. In either case, regular doses of all-purpose fertilizer (applied according to label directions) can nudge your plants into faster, more robust growth and more and better flowers.
To get flowers earlier and longer from these summer bloomers, visit a nursery in late spring or early summer (or place your order then with a mail-order house, either via catalog or Web site) and buy a larger, pre-started plant.

When to plant bulbs

2009-02-25T21:34:00.000-08:00

Bulbs aren’t instant-gratification plants. They need some time in the ground before they send forth stem, foliage, and flowers. But they’re not inert when they’re in the ground, of course. They’re generating root growth, which will help nourish the show as well as anchor the plants in place. The following sections explain what different types of bulbs require, depending on when they bloom.

Planting spring-blooming bulbs
Spring-blooming bulbs require a chilling period. They’re dormant when you get them and break dormancy only after the chilling. Winter conveniently supplies this necessary cold period! That’s why you put the bulbs in the ground the fall before you want them to bloom.

Purchasing bulbs through mail-order

2009-01-28T07:02:00.000-08:00

Sometimes you just don’t have enough time to get to a retail store or you want a particular variety of bulb that’s not commonly found in your local garden center or home supply store. This is where buying from a mail-order supplier can be a real advantage.
Here are the perks of sending away for your bulbs:

Quality: Mail-order bulbs are frequently bigger and fresher. Every step of the way, from climate-controlled storage to the cushioned box they arrive at your door in, mail-order bulbs get premium treatment.
Selection: Catalogs and Web sites devoted especially to bulbs are impressive: You can browse beautiful bulbs you’ve never seen at your local garden center. The selection of cutting-edge varieties also comes into play, because bulb merchants often work directly with Dutch growers to get the new and improved bulb varieties that sometimes aren’t produced in enough quantity to be distributed by mass merchants.

Take a look at the disadvantages:

Wait time: There’s a lag between the time you place your order and the day you receive your bulbs. When you order the bulbs matters. If you order bulbs in spring or summer to be sent the coming fall, you may wait many weeks. It you order them in the fall, delivery usually just takes a few weeks, sometime less. Wait time also depends on the supplier. If the seller has the bulbs in his or her warehouse in the U.S., the bulbs are usually shipped faster than if they have to be sent to you directly from Holland.
Inability to inspect the merchandise: You can’t handle or inspect your bulbs until they arrive. However, all reputable mail-order suppliers guarantee their wares and will replace bulbs or refund your money if the bulbs don’t meet your expectations. Find and read the guarantee and return policies, just in case you have to use them.

Buying bulbs from home stores and nurseries

2009-01-28T07:00:00.000-08:00

You can buy bulbs in so many places these days. If you’re a novice and need some planting information, want top-size bulbs, and need help with your selection, garden centers and nurseries are often your best choice. Home centers have a reasonable selection but usually sell smaller bulbs, and they rarely provide much gardening information.
Here are the advantages of buying bulbs in person:

Instant gratification and impulse buying: You can get the bulbs you want, or come across others that tempt you, and buy them on the spot.
Immediate planting: Shopping and planting on the same day is an option if you have the time and are feeling gung-ho.
Poor storage conditions: Normal display-rack or display-box conditions aren’t ideal for bulbs. Some may dry out; others may sprout prematurely. The smaller the bulb, the faster it dries out. In spring, summer-blooming bulbs are often displayed in home stores weeks, if not months, before the soil is warm enough for planting them.
Lack of variety: Selection isn’t all that varied. Buy spring-blooming bulbs early for late-summer to early-fall planting. That way, the bulbs will be fresh and in the best condition, and you’ll have the biggest selection.
Questionable contents in the bin: Bulbs may get into the wrong bin as customers pick through them. You may end up with the wrong color or a completely different type of bulb.
When selecting your bulbs, read bin or packaging labels with care so you know the names of what you’re buying as well as something about the plants, like how tall they get, when they bloom, whether they grow in sun or shade, and how far apart and deep to plant them.

The Search: Where to Get Your Bulbs

2009-01-28T06:46:00.000-08:00

Making a successful, beautiful bulb display doesn’t begin at planting time. It begins when you go bulb-shopping or bulb-swapping. Neighbors can be a great resource for extra bulbs when they’re dividing their bulbs. But do be picky: Free bulbs aren’t a bargain if they aren’t strong and healthy. Bulb quality can vary, so starting with good ones is important. Here’s what to look for:

Appearance: A fresh, good-quality bulb is plump and clean, without obvious damage to its outer layers. Avoid bulbs with disfiguring dents or blemishes, which can let in rot-inducing bacteria. Bulbs may contain a small amount of green penicillin mold, which is rarely harmful. Some bulbs, like anemone and ranunculus, always look dried up.
Heft: Pick up a bulb and handle it for a moment. Then pick up a few others from the same basket or bin (of the same variety) and compare their weights. Bulbs that feel lightweight relative to their peers are likely to be dried out and not viable (they may even be last season’s leftovers, for all you know). While you’re at it, gently squeeze the bulb. A squishy texture indicates rot, but a good, firm feel means the bulb has sufficient moisture content.
Size: With bulbs, bigger is better. A larger bulb has more stored reserves and therefore can produce larger and more flowers on more substantial stems. You get what you pay for; you can get incredible deals on bulbs, but they may be too young and small to bloom.

A daffodil by any other name . . .

2009-01-13T02:34:00.000-08:00

What’s the difference between a daffodil and a narcissus? None! Narcissus is the Latin name for the genus common to all daffodils. Jonquil, another common name ascribed to daffodils, is proper only when you’re referring a particular type, or division (Division 7), of daffodil called jonquilla. Essentially, the name refers to the species Narcissus jonquilla and its hybrids. These plants are the ones that have multiple flowers to a stem, and the blooms are usually very fragrant. In other words, all jonquils are daffodils, but not all daffodils are jonquils.

Mixing up your daffodils

2009-01-13T02:25:00.000-08:00

Daffodils simply don’t have the color range that tulips do, but they do offer a fresh elegance in their whites, creams, yellows, oranges, and near-pinks. Daffodils come in about a dozen different forms, too, which aficionados call divisions. These varieties include the ever-popular trumpet forms; little ones that bloom in clusters; daffodils with tiny, almost flat trumpets; and flowers with trumpets so plush with petals they hardly seem like a daffodil at all. A great feature of daffodils is that nothing likes to eat them! Not squirrels, not mice, not voles, not rabbits, not deer!
And many daffodils are scented. Most have a light, sweet perfume that’s not overpowering. (If you’re after knock-your-socks-off fragrance, check out the jonquil type of daffodils.) To capitalize on fragrant daffodils, plant them in quantity so they can make an impression. Or at least plant enough so you can spare some for bouquets and enjoy that wafting sweetness indoors. Here are some tips for choosing daffodils:

For single-color displays: Daffodils whose petals and trumpet are both the same color, all-white or all-yellow, make excellent massed displays, lovely in their simplicity. For a little more definition, you can seek out a few differently named varieties in the color you like. Varied forms can make such a display more intriguing.
For mixed-color displays: A planting devoted entirely to yellow-andorange bicolor daffodils is a lot of fun. You can tuck in a few solids just to keep things interesting. Another nice idea is to mix the white-petaled, so-called pink-trumpeted daffodils with some plain whites. Blending all the colors and forms doesn’t tend to work well, because the pastel daffodils jar against the bolder hues and a mix of varied forms often looks too busy.
For a longer-lasting show: Situate daffodils in an area that gets part-day shade or filtered light.
For smaller areas or pots: You’re best off devoting a limited area to a single variety or two compatible ones. Miniature growing varieties are also a perfect choice.

Don’t mix daffodils of differing bloom times. When a daffodil is done blooming, you need to let the leaves die down (so they can replenish the bulb’s energy stores for next year’s show). Having some yellowing or drying leaves among up-and-coming bloomers doesn’t look good at all!

Combining various types of tulips

2009-01-13T02:12:00.000-08:00

If the only tulips you know are the classic red ones lining a neighbor’s walkway, you’re in for a treat. The world of tulips is amazingly varied. You can find a wonderful range of hues, from royal purple to golden yellow to shell pink to pure ivory white; there are also many fabulous bicolors, especially the smashing red-and-yellow and pink-and-green ones. Forms also vary, from the popular goblet-shaped flowers (mainly the Darwin hybrids) to ones that resemble plush peonies or elegant lilies. Some tulips have flared or fluted petals or petals with fringed edges. Some are nearly knee-high; others are surprisingly low to the ground. All tulips are equally easy to grow. But before you get carried away with an ambitious planting scheme, remember also that although tulips are always spring bloomers, they don’t all bloom at the same time. You can find everything from “single early” to “double late” tulips, and you have to take these designations into account if you want your plans to work out. Check out the following tips for different types of displays:

For single-color displays: Use a large quantity of the same exact tulip variety and plant closely.
For mixed-color displays: Stick to a theme, such as pastel or bold colors. Tuck in a few bicolors that tie the display all together. Of course, if you have lots of space, going for the full rainbow can be fun, but to be effective, such a show needs to have a generous number of tulips in every hue.
For a longer-lasting show: Research the bloom times so you get a range. Then mix up the varieties up throughout the display so it doesn’t look unbalanced and so something is always in bloom.
For smaller areas or pots: Choose tulips of different heights and place the taller ones in the middle. That way, you can distinguish each one, and the variety and complexity of the show gives it more splash. Don’t plant your tulip display in a shady spot. Some spring bloomers don’t mind, but tulips do.

Choosing to Combine Your Bulbs

2009-01-13T02:10:00.000-08:00

A lone bulb isn’t much of a show; nor, in truth, is a scattering or a row of a mere dozen. Bulbs are meant to be planted, enjoyed, shown off in generous numbers. The more, the merrier!
This need for company isn’t just because bulbs are small plants. In fact, some plants can grow fairly tall and even sport big, dramatic flowers. The case for putting in lots of bulbs, in sweeps or mix-and-match displays, is compelling:
The whole is inevitably greater than the sum of the parts. Flowering bulbs simply look fabulous in groups; their natural exuberance is multiplied.

Getting acquainted with the most popular bulbs

2009-01-13T01:43:00.000-08:00

You can find many different types of bulbs, but they all have one thing in common: They’re packages of life just waiting to be planted. They differ from seeds in that they contain within them the beginnings of leaves, stems, and flowers. All they need is to be planted and watered, and the growth process can begin.
The common spring-flowering bulbs include tulips, noted for their impressive range of flower types and colors; daffodils, some of the most rugged and easiest to grow of all bulbs; and lilies, which, by planting different varieties, you can have blooming from late spring to early fall. Check out the color insert for a look at some of these bulb superstars.

The time of the season: Looking at early and late bloomers

2008-12-29T18:35:00.000-08:00

Many bulbs bloom in springtime — those bulbs are the most familiar and beloved to gardeners in cold-winter climates. However, fewer but no-lesspretty ones make their show in summer or even fall. See the next section for examples of these types of bulbs.
The terms early, mid-season, and late abound in bulb descriptions. All this naming system means is that some bulbs burst forth earlier rather than later — all during the springtime. A month or more of time can separate the first snowdrop from the first tulip or the first tulip from the last tulip. The expected bloom time is worth knowing so you can plan for continuous color or set up nice color duos or spectacular full-bed shows. The reason people plant most spring-blooming bulbs in the fall is not just so the plants can get a head start on root growth. These bulbs also need a period of cold (so obligingly supplied by a winter in the ground) to maintain their biological clocks. The warmer, thawed-out but moist soil of spring, not to mention the warm sun above, coaxes them at last to burst into their full and glorious potential. In mild-winter regions, gardeners can buy some bulbs pre-chilled (these plants have a limited selection compared to all the springbloomers), or gardeners can refrigerate regular bulbs for a specified period (at least eight weeks) and then plant them in late winter or early spring.

Defining terms: Bulbs aren’t always, well, bulbs

2008-12-29T18:33:00.000-08:00

When you shop for garden bulbs, you may immediately notice some variations on the underground-storage theme. The minor but key differences are worth knowing because they affect not only what sort of plants the bulbs produce but also how to divide them to get more plants. Here’s a rundown of some of the plant structures that gardeners call bulbs:

True bulbs: Bulbs are composed of concentric fleshy scales, or layers, which are actually modified leaves. Yes, just like an onion. At the base of a true bulb is a basal plate, the place from which the roots grow. Examples of true bulbs include allium (flowering onion), amaryllis, daffodil, hyacinth, and tulip. Interestingly, when you cut a bulb in half, you can see the future plant parts — stem, leaves, flowers. Offsets that you can pry off and plant may appear. In some cases, notably with lilies, you can grow new plants from individual scales.
Corms: These structures resemble true bulbs somewhat, with a growing point on top and a basal plate at the bottom. However, they don’t have the clasping modified leaves; technically, corms are swollen underground stems. Also, they use up their store of food in one growing season — though new little cormels (baby corms) often appear atop the old one to carry on. Examples include autumn crocus, crocus, crocosmia, freesia, and gladiolus.
Rhizomes: Rhizomes are thickened stems that grow horizontally; the roots grow down from the underside. The tip tends to have a primary growing point, though productive side-buds are common, and you can cut them off and plant the buds individually. Examples of rhizomes include agapanthus, bearded iris and many other irises, canna, and lily-of-the-valley.
Tubers: Tubers are swollen stem bases. Roots grow from their sides as well as their bases, and you may see multiple productive buds. A classic example of a tuber is the potato. Other examples include most anemone, tuberous begonia, caladium, cyclamen, dahlia, and gloxinia. The way to divide tubers varies by the type — dahlias, cyclamen, and gloxinia involve different methods. Generally, you want to cut the tuber so that each piece contains a bud.
Tuberous roots: These structures are in fact roots, not modified stems. Fibrous roots, like fingers, radiate outward from a central point. You can easily divide these roots to get more plants, making sure, of course, that each piece has at least one bud on it. Examples include alstromeria, clivia, eremurus, and ranunculus. Many gardeners discuss the differences between hardy bulbs and tender bulbs. Unfortunately, making the distinction isn’t easy, because a tender bulb in one climate (like Zone 4) may be a hardy one in Zone 7. Generally, hardy bulbs can survive wintering in the ground without too much trouble, whereas tender bulbs have to be dug up and stored. Your local nursery can help you determine which bulbs are considered hardy in your area.

Shedding Light on Bulbs

2008-12-29T18:32:00.000-08:00

A bulb is a structure that grows underground; it stores food during its dormancy and then supplies energy for an emerging plant. You know what bulbs are if you buy onions or garlic at the grocery. Good ones are dense and have some heft to them, plus a thin papery skin for protection; as bulbs age, their robustness diminishes and they dry out. They sometimes begin to sprout the beginnings of green leaves out of their tops. Gardeners also consider foods like potatoes, sweet potatoes, ginger, and water chestnuts to be bulbs. Garden bulbs are actually much the same as the ones at the grocery. Good ones have some plumpness and density because they’re full of healthy, moisture-filled plant tissue. They really are a package of life! With the right conditions, and in time, they’re sure to generate leaves — and the big payoff, gorgeous flowers.

A slick trick for keeping out moles and voles

2008-12-29T18:30:00.000-08:00

If you’re having problems with moles (or other small animals), try using this formula to drive them out of your yard:

1⁄4 cup castor oil
2 tablespoons liquid detergent soap
6 tablespoons water Blend the castor oil and soap together in a blender (they won’t mix properly otherwise).

Add the water and blend again. Store this mix in a container till needed.
When you’re ready to apply the solution to the area where the moles are active, mix 2 tablespoons of the solution into 1 gallon of water. Pour it into the problem area (all over the affected area, not just down the holes).

Dealing with perennial pests and diseases

2008-12-29T18:28:00.000-08:00

Good news — perennials aren’t especially pest-prone. If they’re growing in an appropriate spot with elbow room and you water regularly, they’re in good shape. And healthy plants are your best defense against potential problems. There are but a handful of common perennial-garden pests. Read on for their descriptions and some ways to control them:

Aphids: These small whitish critters congregate on stems and nodes, sucking the life out of your plants. A strong spray from the hose can dislodge them. Ladybugs can also make a quick meal of aphids, so don’t get rid of these helpers.
Black vine weevils (snout beetles): In late spring and early summer, these critters are harmless pupae resting in your soil. Then the adults emerge and eat the foliage of dozens of perennials (and lay eggs for the next generation while they’re at it). The telltale sign is notched leaf edges, especially lower down on the plant where the insects find more shelter. Starting in early fall, the newly hatched grubs eat roots. Launch your counterattack in fall by releasing beneficial nematodes (roundworms), available from well-stocked garden centers and mailorder sources; apply according to label directions. Other pesticides are registered for controlling these creatures; check with you local Cooperative Extension Service agent for more information.
Leaf miners: These bugs form brown or tan or clear traceries — tunnels or channels — on affected leaves but rarely kill the plant. Just remove and discard affected leaves, and the plant will generate new ones.
Root nematodes (roundworms): Affected plants develop severely distorted growth. Rip the plants out and discard them before the problem spreads.
Voles: These little rodents slip out of their underground tunnels when you’re not looking and nibble on your perennials, especially the leaves but also roots, seeds, and bulbs. They’re a bit larger than mice, with a shorter tail and smaller ears. You can try trapping them with a baited mousetrap, but the best deterrent is a cat who’s a good hunter. Castor oil as a repellent works fairly well. You can also surround plants with small moats of sharp gravel.

As for diseases, they, too, are mercifully few on healthy perennials. You may encounter mildew or other fungal diseases. These problems appear as spots or a powdery coating on leaves, and severely affected plants may have distorted growth and buds that fail to open. If the problem is bad, tear out the plants or resort to spraying with a fungicide.
If fungal problems are chronic in your garden, your best line of defense is good air circulation, particularly in hot, humid summer weather. Also, be sure to pick off and discard sick leaves or clean up fallen affected leaves around the base of your plants. Regular, even watering right at the roots (that is, not splashing the leaves) is also wise.
Of course, an easy way to avoid both pests and diseases is not to grow vulnerable plants! You can deliberately seek out varieties touted as resistant.

Preparing perennials for winter

2008-12-13T08:35:00.000-08:00

If you live in a cold are and want to overwinter your tender perennials, simply dig up the roots or entire plant and bring it indoors to a nonfreezing spot to spend a few months as a dormant or semi-dormant houseplant. Pot the plants in any good soil and grow them in a cool (40–50°F) and bright area. Keep them barely moist. The idea here is to just keep them alive until you can plant them back outside after the danger of frost next spring. Then with warmer temperatures and brighter light, they’ll spring back to life. You can also trim and prune down your perennials and use mulch to protect them through the winter.

Off with its head! Deadheading your plant

2008-12-13T08:31:00.000-08:00

Deadheading is just a gardening term that refers to the practice of removing spent flowers or flower heads. Not only does it leave your perennials looking nicer, but it also encourages more blooms. Deadheading works by thwarting the plant’s natural inclination to go from flower to seed and thus finish up for the year. If you deadhead, the chemical messages that put that process in motion are stopped and the plant redirects its energies into making more buds and thus more flowers. You can keep a perennial in bloom a lot longer by doing this. So make a habit of deadheading your perennials every time you walk by. Toss the faded flowers on the compost pile. Or bring your clippers along and cut bouquets while the flowers are still in their prime — cutting fresh flowers has the same effect as later deadheading!

Supporting with stakes or rings

2008-12-13T08:08:00.000-08:00

Because some perennials are tall, or tall and broad, a little support is a good thing. It not only keeps the plant more in bounds and manageable, but it also prevents the plant from keeling over under its own weight. You’ve been waiting for those flowers — don’t let them cast downward or flop on the ground! Using a stouter or larger support than you think you need never hurts — if your perennials are healthy and happy, they’re probably going to need it. Resourceful gardeners like to rig their own plant supports, and certainly, nothing’s wrong with bending some old coat hangers or recycling sticks and stakes of various kinds, including tree branches or twigs. But your local garden center, home store, or favorite mail-order catalog may well have a perfectly affordable alternative , saving you the time and effort.
Here are a few important tips to remember about using perennial supports:

Install early. Press a peony hoop (a ring on legs that’s useful for many more perennials than just peonies) over the plant well before it reaches the hoop’s height. This way, you can center the support right over the plant, and when the perennial does grow as expected, the stems, leaves, and flowers will froth over the hoop and hide it from view — without a struggle. Early installation also reduces the risk of damaging the root system as you poke the support in.
Press the support in deeply. At first, the support may be equal to the job, but as the plant grows ever-larger, the stake or hoop may lean or slump. Anchoring the support deeply at the outset can make the support more stable and stronger. A foot or more into the ground is usually best, depending on the plant.
Help out with ties. As the plant grows, check on it and fasten the stem or stems to the support at regular intervals. To avoid abrading the plant tissue, use soft material (not wire! Try string or cloth); if you loop it once around the stem and create a second loop for attaching to the support, the plant will be able to move in a breeze but still be held gently but firmly to its appointed place. (Use green string or cloth, and you’ll hardly be able to see it.)
Be tidy! Remove and store or discard the support at season’s end. This step will also remind you to cut back the perennial (and mulch if your winters are cold). With a season’s experience under your belt, you should now know whether the support is the right one for the job and thus worth saving or replacing. If you need something more substantial, add it to your springtime shopping list.

You really don’t know whether a perennial needs support until you grow it. Whether a support is necessary depends not only on the type of plant but also on cultural conditions — a plant that may be self supporting in full sun in a protected location may need to be staked if grown in a shady spot or one with a lot of wind. Perennials that do need support need it every year.

Preparing for the actual Perennial Planting

2008-12-13T06:03:00.000-08:00

How to plant your perennials has a lot to do with how you acquired them, whether by mail-order, from the local nursery, or as a division from a fellow gardener.
If you purchased your plants mail-order as pots or bare roots, here’s what to do when they’re delivered to your home:

Unpack immediately, and inspect the plants. As with potted ones, you want to be on the lookout for obvious problems of pests or rot. And you want to see crisp roots. You shouldn’t see any green stem or leaf growth yet, or at least not much.
Hold the plants in a cool, dark place until you’re ready to plant them — perhaps for a few days or a week at the most. The refrigerator is also fine. Mist them lightly if they seem dry. If you can’t plant right away, pot them, water well, and care for them in a sheltered location.
On planting day, rehydrate the roots by soaking them in a bucket of tepid water for a few hours.

Here’s how to handle plant divisions (see “Dividing perennials” for info on doing the separation):

Keep plant divisions moist. Don’t let them dry out! This idea is especially important if you’re not prepared to plant the divisions in your garden right away. Place them in a plastic bag or box and sprinkle on some water or temporarily pot them; water well.
Clean them up. Clip off or tug out weeds and limp, yellowing, or damaged foliage. Cut off flowering stalks (don’t worry, they’ll generate new ones soon enough). Right now, you just want to the divisions to devote their energy to establishing their roots in your yard.
Plant in a prepared area and keep an eye on them. Don’t just toss divisions on the ground and hope for the best, even if your friend characterized them as tough guys. They need time, water, and weeding to get their legs under them.