Water Sprinkler Timers

If you have a good idea how much watering your plants need but don’t want to or can’t be there, the water timer’s for you. Though no bigger than a coffee can, some of these gadgets contain a small computer that you can program for watering time and duration. Others have a clever intermittent feature that delivers the water in on-off cycles (for instance, five minutes on followed by a ten-minute rest) over a period of time (say, three hours) before shutting off automatically. This allows the soil to efficiently absorb the water with far less runoff and evaporation.

The fancy battery-operated types with all the settings are handy if you need all these features, but if you’re after simplicity and dependability, you can’t beat the spring-operated ones. One end of the timer attaches to the faucet, the other to the hose end — you have no batteries, no wires to worry about. Some timers are more elaborate (and expensive) than others, so have a clear idea of your needs as well as your technological savvy when you go shopping. You can find water timers wherever gardening supplies are sold, as well as at specialty greenhouse supply companies.
Water timers are most often used with professional installed sprinkler systems

What is Hose-end sprinklers?

Here’s another way to put your good hose to work: A hose-end sprinkler is designed to screw into a standard hose and rest on the ground wherever you drag it and set it down; it then delivers water in a spray pattern in the immediate area. Clever designers have come up with all sorts of nifty alternatives, so you should have no trouble finding a sprinkler you like and that suits the lay of your particular landscape. Here’s a rundown of the common ones:

• Fixed-spray sprinkler: These sprinklers are the simplest types and are perfectly satisfactory for watering small areas. They deliver a fine, soft rain, rather casually (that is, without a super-reliable pattern). Use them on the lawn or for watering flowerbeds and shrubs; they’re less effective under trees because they fling water up into the branches, where it’s neither needed nor especially appreciated. You may have to run the water on low or get a heavier model if it tends to flip over on its side or upside down, a common problem.
• Whirlybird sprinkler: A spring-loaded arm breaks the shooting stream of water into droplets as it snaps back into place, which makes this sprinkler revolve. This deceptively simple design can actually accomplish a very thorough watering job in a circular shape.
  
• Rain tower: The rain tower is just an impulse sprinkler like the whirlybird, but it’s elevated on an adjustable tripod contraption so it can water a broad circle. Therefore, it’s terrific for watering large areas of tall plants, such as a corn patch or vegetable garden.
• Oscillating sprinkler: You have to set or assign these sprinklers their job, which can be a full-yard swing from left to right and back again, or a half-swing to the left or right, or just a held, stationary position. Oscillating sprinklers are marvelous for watering lawns and broad plantings. Splurge on the more expensive units; they last much longer and offer a greater range of settings that can make your watering more accurate and efficient. Compared to a whirlybird sprinkler, oscillating sprinklers tend to lose a lot of water to evaporation.
• Tractor (traveling) sprinkler: The tractor sprinkler is a little more hightech, at least for a homeowner. The small water-driven tractor scoots slowly across a lawn, using the laid-out hose as a guide. Meanwhile, a simple revolving sprinkler mounted on top does the watering. Some models have three speeds, for lighter to deeper watering.

Understanding Garden Nozzles

An awful lot of hose accessories are out there. Rarely are they expensive, so you can give one a try and see how you, and your plants, like it. Here are some of the common ones; they all screw onto the end of a standard hose:

• Watering wand: This gadget extends your reach for watering hanging baskets or irrigating the back of a deep flowerbed. The rose, or head, at the end of the wand delivers the water in a gentle, drenching spray. The watering wand is also nice for watering potted plants and seedlings if you keep the water pressure low so you don’t dislodge the little plants. Get a wand with a thumb-operated on-off valve so you can move from plant to plant without wetting things you don’t mean to or wasting water.
• Jet-spray nozzle: Usually brass, this tool focuses water into a strong, stiff spray. It’s ideal for hosing off muddy tools and boots or cleaning a walkway or driveway.
• Adjustable round nozzle: A refinement of the jet-spray nozzle, this nozzle can also deliver a softer spray right on down to a mist — all by twisting it until the water is coming out the way you want.
• Misting head: Though small, this tool can be a bit pricier because it usually comes in brass or brass-coated die-cast metal. It delivers water in a fine mist, nice for little emerging seedlings.
• Pistol-grip nozzle: Usually made of tough, UV-resistant plastic, this nozzle is a favorite among gardeners because you can vary the intensity of the spray by applying pressure to the trigger and thus use it throughout your garden.
• Fan head: This tool delivers a drenching sweep of water from its broad, broom-head-like end, making it a good choice for bigger watering projects like irrigating a newly planted shrub or rosebush.
• Multiple-head nozzle: These nozzles are showing up more frequently on the market. They have several types of nozzles built into one head and are quite handy.

Repairing a hose

Hoses seem to undergo more abuse than just about any other type of gardening tool, and chances are that sooner or later you’re going to find yourself owning a hose with some end or thread damage. When this happens, determine whether repairing the hose end is worth the trouble. If the hose wasn’t cheap and the damage is minor, by all means, give it a try.
For hoses that develop leaks, patch kits are available wherever hoses are sold. Always patch only when the hose is completely dry.

Hose storage and placement accessories

Coils and hose caddies are nice accessories to have. You see, a hose comes coiled and stores well coiled in its original direction and loop size — in other words, a hose has coil memory. Letting the hose return to this state when not in use is better for the hose’s longevity.
A hose guide is a simple but worthwhile gadget. A stake anchors the guide in the ground or in pre-drilled holes in your patio or pathway, and it holds the hose in place, even along curves or around corners. In this way, the hose can’t stray onto a path or across your garden plants.

Garden Hose Sizes

The most common hose size is 5⁄8 of an inch in diameter, which works very well with typical municipal water pressure (30 to 50 pounds per square inch). You may have cause to go down to 1⁄2 inch or up to 1 inch — the skinnier one delivers water more slowly; the fatter one, more quickly. Length depends on how far you have to reach the hose. For flexibility, you may want to buy your hose in 25-foot segments rather than longer lengths and just join them together as needed for different areas of the garden. Also, shorter lengths are lighter and thus easier to lug around.

Hose materials and construction

The best, most long-lived hose is one that’s composed of layers. The inner layer needs to be flexible, a nice smooth rubber or synthetic tube. To protect it and give it toughness, it’s covered or coated with at least one outer layer of nylon fabric or mesh. The outer skin beyond that, the part you touch and see, needs to be of a material that doesn’t break down after prolonged exposure to sun and weather. It also needs to resist punctures and scratches. Usually, the outer layer is vinyl, or a vinyl-rubber blend, and it’s often green or black. Multi-layered hoses may seem a bit fatter or heavier than the inexpensive alternatives, but as usual, you get what you pay for. The standard, vinyl-coated, layered hose comes in different forms: namely three-ply, four-ply, and five-ply. As with anything, heavier duty versions, like the five-ply, are more expensive. Heavier duty hoses don’t kink as often, can take higher water pressures, and last longer. For occasional watering jobs, the lower ply will work fine; for more frequent use and longer life, go with the higher ply.
Other types of hoses include

• The soaker or leaky hose: This hose “sweats” water slowly out along its entire length via tiny holes.
• The flat hose: Made of cotton canvas, the flat hose is lightweight and compact.
• The patio hose: The end of the patio hose is designed to attach to a sink faucet.

One more thing to look for when hose-shopping: The fittings at the ends should also be of good quality. Their job is to attach seamlessly to a faucet (or sprinkler, if at the other end) without leaking or spraying. How do you judge quality? If they’re cast brass rather than cheap metal, they’re built to last. A stamped, galvanized steel fitting never seems to hold up over time.

Garden Hoses Basics

The good old garden hose — it saves time and steps. You can just drag it out to the right spot, turn it on, let it go, and come back later. Coil it up when it’s not in use. Keep it for years. Simple, right?
Well, not always. Cheap hoses and older ones have an annoying flaw: They kink and tangle. If you aren’t watching, you can waste water and sometimes harm plants as the hose lashes around. Then you have the problem of hoses that crack, burst, and leak after being left out in the sun or run over by the car, or that just break down after what seems like not very much use. Read on for some important considerations when buying a garden hose.

Tilling soil with rototillers

Consider the rotary tiller, or rototiller: You may need one of these soil-eating machines if you’re going to create a large new flowerbed, a production cutflower garden, or a vegetable garden (or to install a new lawn) — any project too daunting to undertake by hand.
If your property is large or you like to keep busy with such projects and revisions of them, you may want to consider buying a tiller. But for most situations, you’re better off renting what you need (check the yellow pages under Equipment Rentals or Rental Services). The only drawback to renting, or borrowing from a neighbor for that matter, is that the tool may not be well maintained, which slows down the work or may be dangerous. Here’s how tillers compare:

• Full-size tillers: These beasts are for the bigger jobs. They’re heavy, and figuring out how to navigate and control them takes some strength and practice. But the powerful spinning tines do a great job of chewing up soil, mixing in compost or other amendments, and spitting everything out to create a fluffy, loose, wonderful planting bed. The tines may be in front, in the middle, or in the rear. These tillers come in various sizes. For heavy duty jobs like cultivating heavy soil for the first time, the larger tillers are more practical. The larger tillers are really intended for very substantial row crop gardens that are a quarter acre or so. For frequent use, after the initial cultivation, the smaller tillers are usually fine and are much easier to handle.
• Hand-held mini tillers: These lightweight helpers come either gas powered (two- or four-cycle engine) or electric (120-volt, much quieter); typically, they weigh 20 pounds or less. Choose an electric mini tiller based on how far from an outlet you’ll be. These tool s are suitable for smaller-scale projects and do a fine job of mixing amendments into the soil. Plus, you can control them so you don’t go where you don’t want to go and don’t stray into the root zones of established shrubs or perennials. Turning over the soil inevitably brings dormant weed seeds to the surface, where they’re only too happy to germinate and start growing. And if you till any weeds, alive or dead, into the ground, you may release and churn up their seeds as well. Your best bet is to try to clear an area of weeds before you do any tilling.

Working with weed trimmers and weed whackers

Weed trimmers and weed whackers can do a lot of different things around your yard and garden: They can cut grass (especially in tricky, hard-to-reach spots like under a fence and along edges and borders) and trim weeds and light brush. These useful tools come in different sizes and varying rates of power. They also come in three forms:

• Gas-powered: Noisy but effective and portable; they tend to be heavier than other types, but weight can vary a great deal depending on the power of the unit
• Corded electric: Less powerful, but not as loud and may be just fine for your needs; your extension cord may limit where you can go
• Battery-operated: The quietest and least powerful (running out of juice after around 30 minutes) but very portable

Chewing through chores with chainsaws

Chances are you don’t need a big, powerful chainsaw like the ones road clearing crews use. Plenty of good, smaller-size ones are suitable for homeowners — some are gas-powered (they have two-stroke engines), and some are electric-powered (which have the advantage of being quieter). Either way, confirm that important safety features are present, namely

• A two-handed switch
• A chain brake that triggers if the saw kicks back

Although a chainsaw can be invaluable, it can also destroy hedges that were meant to be trimmed with hedge shears and can do major damage to you if you don’t show it respect!