Wednesday, May 27, 2009

Mulching for your bulbs


Mulch helps keep down weeds, can add organic matter to the soil, retains moisture, and stabilizes the soil temperatures. Stable soil temperatures are important so the bulbs don’t sprout too soon and risk freezing damage from a late spring cold snap.
Shredded leaves, compost, or bark chips are all fine choices for mulch. Sprinkle it lightly around your bulbs just after planting them or when they’re up and growing. And add some more mulch after the show is completely over.

Fertilizing bulbs


Although newly planted bulbs have all the stored foods they need to perform the following spring, annual fertilizing can help keep this show going year after year.
A general-purpose fertilizer works fine for bulbs. A higher phosphorus content is often recommended simply because it inspires root growth as well as flower production. So go ahead and use the 5-10-5 or something close to this ratio.
People often recommend bone meal for bulbs, with its approximate formulation of 2.5-24-0. Alas, modern-day, store-bought bone meal is highly sanitized, and its benefits are questionable. Nonetheless, some bulb enthusiasts swear by it. This natural material tends to be very slow to release it nutrients, so some gardeners prefer using super phosphate instead; this material is rock phosphate that has been treated with sulfuric acid to make it more soluble. It’s 20 percent phosphorous (0-20-0).
Some people debate over where to place the fertilizer. In the hole? On the soil surface (top-dressing)? The case for adding plant food to the planting hole is that it’s right at the roots, where plants need it (some people are concerned that direct contact with fertilizer will burn a bulb or its roots, but not all bulbs are so fragile). The case for soil-surface feeding is that the nutrition can filter into the growing area more gradually.
What to do? Try whichever way is more convenient for you, and judge the results. You can always switch methods.
You need to fertilize only once, and you have three opportunities to do so:
  • At planting time (usually in the fall): Fertilizing at planting time gets the bulbs off to a good start.
  • As growth starts, usually in early spring: This fertilizing improves the current season’s display. Individual plants will be more robust, with brighter, longer-lasting blooms.
  • Post-bloom: While the foliage dies down naturally, this little boost sends food down to the bulb to fuel next year’s show. The standard application rate for fertilizer is a tablespoon or small handful per square foot, but read the label on the fertilizer package for exact directions.
Always apply fertilizer to damp ground, and water it in afterwar

Watering your bulbs


Just like grocery-store onions, bulbs rot with too much moisture. And yet, they need water to generate roots and get growing. But don’t fret — there’s no mystery or careful balancing act. Just grow bulbs in well-drained soil; they can use the water they need, and any excess moisture should drain away. Fall-planted, spring-flowering bulbs have it easy if you live where fall rains water them in and spring rains wake them up. (Of course, in an uncharacteristic dry spell, you can provide supplemental water.) Summer- and fallbloomers appreciate water most when they’re beginning to emerge and again when they open their flower buds. Water at these times only if the soil is dry.