The time of the season: Looking at early and late bloomers

Many bulbs bloom in springtime — those bulbs are the most familiar and beloved to gardeners in cold-winter climates. However, fewer but no-lesspretty ones make their show in summer or even fall. See the next section for examples of these types of bulbs.
The terms early, mid-season, and late abound in bulb descriptions. All this naming system means is that some bulbs burst forth earlier rather than later — all during the springtime. A month or more of time can separate the first snowdrop from the first tulip or the first tulip from the last tulip. The expected bloom time is worth knowing so you can plan for continuous color or set up nice color duos or spectacular full-bed shows. The reason people plant most spring-blooming bulbs in the fall is not just so the plants can get a head start on root growth. These bulbs also need a period of cold (so obligingly supplied by a winter in the ground) to maintain their biological clocks. The warmer, thawed-out but moist soil of spring, not to mention the warm sun above, coaxes them at last to burst into their full and glorious potential. In mild-winter regions, gardeners can buy some bulbs pre-chilled (these plants have a limited selection compared to all the springbloomers), or gardeners can refrigerate regular bulbs for a specified period (at least eight weeks) and then plant them in late winter or early spring.

Defining terms: Bulbs aren’t always, well, bulbs

When you shop for garden bulbs, you may immediately notice some variations on the underground-storage theme. The minor but key differences are worth knowing because they affect not only what sort of plants the bulbs produce but also how to divide them to get more plants. Here’s a rundown of some of the plant structures that gardeners call bulbs:

• True bulbs: Bulbs are composed of concentric fleshy scales, or layers, which are actually modified leaves. Yes, just like an onion. At the base of a true bulb is a basal plate, the place from which the roots grow. Examples of true bulbs include allium (flowering onion), amaryllis, daffodil, hyacinth, and tulip. Interestingly, when you cut a bulb in half, you can see the future plant parts — stem, leaves, flowers. Offsets that you can pry off and plant may appear. In some cases, notably with lilies, you can grow new plants from individual scales.
• Corms: These structures resemble true bulbs somewhat, with a growing point on top and a basal plate at the bottom. However, they don’t have the clasping modified leaves; technically, corms are swollen underground stems. Also, they use up their store of food in one growing season — though new little cormels (baby corms) often appear atop the old one to carry on. Examples include autumn crocus, crocus, crocosmia, freesia, and gladiolus.
• Rhizomes: Rhizomes are thickened stems that grow horizontally; the roots grow down from the underside. The tip tends to have a primary growing point, though productive side-buds are common, and you can cut them off and plant the buds individually. Examples of rhizomes include agapanthus, bearded iris and many other irises, canna, and lily-of-the-valley.
• Tubers: Tubers are swollen stem bases. Roots grow from their sides as well as their bases, and you may see multiple productive buds. A classic example of a tuber is the potato. Other examples include most anemone, tuberous begonia, caladium, cyclamen, dahlia, and gloxinia. The way to divide tubers varies by the type — dahlias, cyclamen, and gloxinia involve different methods. Generally, you want to cut the tuber so that each piece contains a bud.
• Tuberous roots: These structures are in fact roots, not modified stems. Fibrous roots, like fingers, radiate outward from a central point. You can easily divide these roots to get more plants, making sure, of course, that each piece has at least one bud on it. Examples include alstromeria, clivia, eremurus, and ranunculus. Many gardeners discuss the differences between hardy bulbs and tender bulbs. Unfortunately, making the distinction isn’t easy, because a tender bulb in one climate (like Zone 4) may be a hardy one in Zone 7. Generally, hardy bulbs can survive wintering in the ground without too much trouble, whereas tender bulbs have to be dug up and stored. Your local nursery can help you determine which bulbs are considered hardy in your area.

Shedding Light on Bulbs

A bulb is a structure that grows underground; it stores food during its dormancy and then supplies energy for an emerging plant. You know what bulbs are if you buy onions or garlic at the grocery. Good ones are dense and have some heft to them, plus a thin papery skin for protection; as bulbs age, their robustness diminishes and they dry out. They sometimes begin to sprout the beginnings of green leaves out of their tops. Gardeners also consider foods like potatoes, sweet potatoes, ginger, and water chestnuts to be bulbs. Garden bulbs are actually much the same as the ones at the grocery. Good ones have some plumpness and density because they’re full of healthy, moisture-filled plant tissue. They really are a package of life! With the right conditions, and in time, they’re sure to generate leaves — and the big payoff, gorgeous flowers.

A slick trick for keeping out moles and voles

If you’re having problems with moles (or other small animals), try using this formula to drive them out of your yard:

• 1⁄4 cup castor oil
• 2 tablespoons liquid detergent soap
• 6 tablespoons water Blend the castor oil and soap together in a blender (they won’t mix properly otherwise).

Add the water and blend again. Store this mix in a container till needed.
When you’re ready to apply the solution to the area where the moles are active, mix 2 tablespoons of the solution into 1 gallon of water. Pour it into the problem area (all over the affected area, not just down the holes).

Dealing with perennial pests and diseases

Good news — perennials aren’t especially pest-prone. If they’re growing in an appropriate spot with elbow room and you water regularly, they’re in good shape. And healthy plants are your best defense against potential problems. There are but a handful of common perennial-garden pests. Read on for their descriptions and some ways to control them:

• Aphids: These small whitish critters congregate on stems and nodes, sucking the life out of your plants. A strong spray from the hose can dislodge them. Ladybugs can also make a quick meal of aphids, so don’t get rid of these helpers.
• Black vine weevils (snout beetles): In late spring and early summer, these critters are harmless pupae resting in your soil. Then the adults emerge and eat the foliage of dozens of perennials (and lay eggs for the next generation while they’re at it). The telltale sign is notched leaf edges, especially lower down on the plant where the insects find more shelter. Starting in early fall, the newly hatched grubs eat roots. Launch your counterattack in fall by releasing beneficial nematodes (roundworms), available from well-stocked garden centers and mailorder sources; apply according to label directions. Other pesticides are registered for controlling these creatures; check with you local Cooperative Extension Service agent for more information.
• Leaf miners: These bugs form brown or tan or clear traceries — tunnels or channels — on affected leaves but rarely kill the plant. Just remove and discard affected leaves, and the plant will generate new ones.
• Root nematodes (roundworms): Affected plants develop severely distorted growth. Rip the plants out and discard them before the problem spreads.
• Voles: These little rodents slip out of their underground tunnels when you’re not looking and nibble on your perennials, especially the leaves but also roots, seeds, and bulbs. They’re a bit larger than mice, with a shorter tail and smaller ears. You can try trapping them with a baited mousetrap, but the best deterrent is a cat who’s a good hunter. Castor oil as a repellent works fairly well. You can also surround plants with small moats of sharp gravel.

As for diseases, they, too, are mercifully few on healthy perennials. You may encounter mildew or other fungal diseases. These problems appear as spots or a powdery coating on leaves, and severely affected plants may have distorted growth and buds that fail to open. If the problem is bad, tear out the plants or resort to spraying with a fungicide.
If fungal problems are chronic in your garden, your best line of defense is good air circulation, particularly in hot, humid summer weather. Also, be sure to pick off and discard sick leaves or clean up fallen affected leaves around the base of your plants. Regular, even watering right at the roots (that is, not splashing the leaves) is also wise.
Of course, an easy way to avoid both pests and diseases is not to grow vulnerable plants! You can deliberately seek out varieties touted as resistant.

Preparing perennials for winter

If you live in a cold are and want to overwinter your tender perennials, simply dig up the roots or entire plant and bring it indoors to a nonfreezing spot to spend a few months as a dormant or semi-dormant houseplant. Pot the plants in any good soil and grow them in a cool (40–50°F) and bright area. Keep them barely moist. The idea here is to just keep them alive until you can plant them back outside after the danger of frost next spring. Then with warmer temperatures and brighter light, they’ll spring back to life. You can also trim and prune down your perennials and use mulch to protect them through the winter.

Off with its head! Deadheading your plant

Deadheading is just a gardening term that refers to the practice of removing spent flowers or flower heads. Not only does it leave your perennials looking nicer, but it also encourages more blooms. Deadheading works by thwarting the plant’s natural inclination to go from flower to seed and thus finish up for the year. If you deadhead, the chemical messages that put that process in motion are stopped and the plant redirects its energies into making more buds and thus more flowers. You can keep a perennial in bloom a lot longer by doing this. So make a habit of deadheading your perennials every time you walk by. Toss the faded flowers on the compost pile. Or bring your clippers along and cut bouquets while the flowers are still in their prime — cutting fresh flowers has the same effect as later deadheading!

Supporting with stakes or rings

Because some perennials are tall, or tall and broad, a little support is a good thing. It not only keeps the plant more in bounds and manageable, but it also prevents the plant from keeling over under its own weight. You’ve been waiting for those flowers — don’t let them cast downward or flop on the ground! Using a stouter or larger support than you think you need never hurts — if your perennials are healthy and happy, they’re probably going to need it. Resourceful gardeners like to rig their own plant supports, and certainly, nothing’s wrong with bending some old coat hangers or recycling sticks and stakes of various kinds, including tree branches or twigs. But your local garden center, home store, or favorite mail-order catalog may well have a perfectly affordable alternative , saving you the time and effort.
Here are a few important tips to remember about using perennial supports:

• Install early. Press a peony hoop (a ring on legs that’s useful for many more perennials than just peonies) over the plant well before it reaches the hoop’s height. This way, you can center the support right over the plant, and when the perennial does grow as expected, the stems, leaves, and flowers will froth over the hoop and hide it from view — without a struggle. Early installation also reduces the risk of damaging the root system as you poke the support in.
• Press the support in deeply. At first, the support may be equal to the job, but as the plant grows ever-larger, the stake or hoop may lean or slump. Anchoring the support deeply at the outset can make the support more stable and stronger. A foot or more into the ground is usually best, depending on the plant.
• Help out with ties. As the plant grows, check on it and fasten the stem or stems to the support at regular intervals. To avoid abrading the plant tissue, use soft material (not wire! Try string or cloth); if you loop it once around the stem and create a second loop for attaching to the support, the plant will be able to move in a breeze but still be held gently but firmly to its appointed place. (Use green string or cloth, and you’ll hardly be able to see it.)
• Be tidy! Remove and store or discard the support at season’s end. This step will also remind you to cut back the perennial (and mulch if your winters are cold). With a season’s experience under your belt, you should now know whether the support is the right one for the job and thus worth saving or replacing. If you need something more substantial, add it to your springtime shopping list.

You really don’t know whether a perennial needs support until you grow it. Whether a support is necessary depends not only on the type of plant but also on cultural conditions — a plant that may be self supporting in full sun in a protected location may need to be staked if grown in a shady spot or one with a lot of wind. Perennials that do need support need it every year.

Preparing for the actual Perennial Planting

How to plant your perennials has a lot to do with how you acquired them, whether by mail-order, from the local nursery, or as a division from a fellow gardener.
If you purchased your plants mail-order as pots or bare roots, here’s what to do when they’re delivered to your home:

1. Unpack immediately, and inspect the plants. As with potted ones, you want to be on the lookout for obvious problems of pests or rot. And you want to see crisp roots. You shouldn’t see any green stem or leaf growth yet, or at least not much.
2. Hold the plants in a cool, dark place until you’re ready to plant them — perhaps for a few days or a week at the most. The refrigerator is also fine. Mist them lightly if they seem dry. If you can’t plant right away, pot them, water well, and care for them in a sheltered location.
3. On planting day, rehydrate the roots by soaking them in a bucket of tepid water for a few hours.

Here’s how to handle plant divisions (see “Dividing perennials” for info on doing the separation):

• Keep plant divisions moist. Don’t let them dry out! This idea is especially important if you’re not prepared to plant the divisions in your garden right away. Place them in a plastic bag or box and sprinkle on some water or temporarily pot them; water well.
  
• Clean them up. Clip off or tug out weeds and limp, yellowing, or damaged foliage. Cut off flowering stalks (don’t worry, they’ll generate new ones soon enough). Right now, you just want to the divisions to devote their energy to establishing their roots in your yard.
• Plant in a prepared area and keep an eye on them. Don’t just toss divisions on the ground and hope for the best, even if your friend characterized them as tough guys. They need time, water, and weeding to get their legs under them.

Fall planting for Perennials

Autumn turns out to be a fine time to plant many perennials in temperate climates. The soil and air are cooler now and sunlight is less intense, so the weather’s less stressful for newcomer plants. Competition from weeds isn’t likely to be a big problem, either.
In some regions, rainfall becomes more regular, too, which helps provide the moisture the perennials need to start good root growth. And their roots do grow — the plants simply aren’t programmed to start producing lots of new leaves or flowers at this time of year. Yes, the perennials will soon head into winter dormancy, but fall planting often gives these perennials a head start over their spring-planted counterparts.
When spring rolls around, you may notice the difference. The fall-planted perennials should be raring to grow, larger and more robust. You can expect a good show. All this, plus you won’t have to elbow through crowds at the garden center. You now know something that many gardeners don’t. Seize this opportunity!
Fall planting also applies to perennials you want to dig up and move to a new spot and to divisions (strong, rooted pieces of overgrown plants).
When getting ready for fall planting, make sure you do the following:

• Buy good, strong plants. These plants have the best chance to establish themselves in your garden.
• Mulch a little at planting time, about 1⁄2 to 1 inch, to hold in soil moisture and warmth; mulch even more as winter arrives, another 2 or 3 inches after the ground freezes, to protect the plants during the cold months.
  
• Cut back the top growth, just to further urge the plant to concentrate on root growth.

Here are some things to avoid during fall planting:

• Fertilizing: Fertilizing inspires a fresh spurt of young shoots and leaves, which are vulnerable to cold damage. You want perennials to enter their winter dormancy.
• Plant late-bloomers: Late bloomers (like asters, mums, black-eyed Susan, and perennial ornamental grasses) are better planted in spring.

Make doubly sure, before you find out the hard way, which plants relish fall planting and which do not. You can always double check at wherever you buy perennials in the fall. Reputable nurseries don’t sell plants that resent being planted this time of year. Some fall-planting favorites are daylilies, peonies, oriental poppies, and rhizomatous iris.