To Buy or Not to Buy

I had always wanted the biggest rototiller I could get. I still don't have it, and now you couldn't give me one. I did, however, buy myself a chipper/shredder for Mother's Day one year. What makes gardener's spring for these big-ticket items? What are the alternatives to buying?

For me the rototiller became a non-necessity when I changed gardening styles. By forming raised beds, I eliminated the need for a tiller,

the soil stays soft, and is easy to turn with a spade in the spring. In fact, a tiller would make more work by tearing up the beds. But the shredder was different. Lots of barnyard critters, weeds, and pine cones add up to lots of waste that requires managing on a regular basis. The shredder makes quick work of turning mountains into molehills.

When considering adding tools to your gardening ensemble, take a hard look at how often you will use a new piece of equipment. If, like that heavy-duty rototiller, it will only see action a couple of times a year, think about renting one only when you need it. It is less convenient to pick it up, lug it home, and return it after use. But think about the perks. There are no maintenance costs, no storage, no parting with the purchase price, and you still save money. For example, a tiller, with a five-year warranty, sells for around $800. A similar machine rents for $40 an hour. You can rent that machine once a year for twenty years, or twice a year for ten years, before you spend the amount it would cost to buy it. Other "occasional-use" equipment you might consider renting include the chipper/shredder, hedge trimmers, and leaf blower.

Neighborly cooperation can go a long way to saving money as well. Get a nearby gardening friend or two to share your rental. Most rental companies charge just as much for the half-hour it takes to drive the machine home as they do for the time it is in use. By splitting the expense with others, you cut down on wasted rental time.

A Fix for Hoses

My hoses seem to get shorter every year. That's because rather than throw them away after accidentally smashing the couplings or cutting them in half, I repair them.

There are two types of repair kits available at garden centers. They differ in how to secure the coupling. One type uses prongs that clamp down around the end of the hose, and the other applies a band at the hose end.

First cut away the damaged coupling or shredded section of hose. Soak the hose end in hot water for a few minutes to soften. If using a band repair kit, slide the band over the hose, and insert the fitting. Tighten the band as close to the coupling as possible. To repair with a prong-type kit, insert the fitting, and clamp the prongs down as tightly as possible with a pair of pliers.

Extend the Life of Wooden Tools

You can extend the life of any wooden handle the day you buy it. Use fine sandpaper to remove the finish. With your bare hands or a soft rag, generously rub the handle with boiled linseed oil. The warmth from your hands will help work in the oil, or leave a rag-oiled handle in the sun to warm the oil into the wood. Tung oil or vegetable oils such as olive or safflower oils also make good preservatives. The result is a smooth, water-resistant finish. Replenish with another rub whenever the wood begins to lose its satin feel.
Replace cracked shovel or fork handles. Digging puts a lot of stress on these tools, and having one give out at the wrong moment can be dangerous. Repair splits in hoe or rake handles by prying them open, filling with wood glue or epoxy, clamping till dry, and sanding smooth. It's usually quicker just to replace the handle. Don't ever try to get by with wrapping tape around a cracked handle. It is cheap, but it only hides a potentially worsening problem.

Handles come in different styles, but the method of replacement is about the same. Begin by removing the old handle. There is usually a screw or rivet holding the handle in place. Take the screw or rivet out of the tool socket carefully, without altering the socket shape. You may have to bang the old handle out with a chunk of pipe.

Install the new handle by securing the tool head, spade or fork, in a vise and pushing the handle into the socket. Soak the handle in hot water or coat the socket with a little oil or soap to help the handle slide in easily, especially with curved sockets. Tap the handle as far as it will go. Prevent the new handle from ever flying free by drilling a hole and inserting a nut and bolt through the metal socket into the handle.