Transplanting Bare-Root Stock

Some of the best bargains in woody plants are bare-root plants. The selection is phenomenal, and it includes roses, grapes, blueberry bushes, canefruit, and many shrubs and trees.

Late winter is the best time to buy and plant. It is also the best time to dig up and move young plants that you have propagated yourself.

Plant bare-root plants as soon as you get them home, or dig them up, to prevent life-threatening dehydration. Bare-root plants are totally unprotected. If you cannot plant them immediately, place the plants in a bucket of water for no more than a few hours.

Check the plant carefully at both ends. Trim any damaged or spindly roots and cut back the top-growth in proportion to the roots. This seems to be a hard step for most gardeners, but the roots establish the life-blood of the plant and they must get top priority.

Prepare the soil the same as for container plants to transplant. Position the bare-root plant at the proper depth, again usually the same depth at which it grew previously. Build a cone of soil in the bottom of the hole and arrange the roots around it. Backfill, and water well.

Transplanting Container or Root-Ball Plants

Container plants, similar to bedding plants, have their roots established in a growing medium. Unlike spring bedding plants though, it is best to transplant container plants when doRmant.

Perennials. Grow them in containers or special beds in the garden. Transplant at any time, but spring and fall are preferable. Top-growth is slower at these times, yet roots are still developing. At this stage the plant has the greatest chance of establishing roots before going dormant for the winter. The fun part about planting perennials is planning where you will plant them. Try arranging extensive borders using just the plants you propagate yourself (or sneak in a few store-bought plants if you must).

Make sure you plant perennials at the proper depth. Transplant most perennials at the same level they grew in the container or the field, usually with the crown at soil level. Perennials that tend to rot at the base grow better if planted higher. Plants that require dampness near the crown, such as Solomon's Seal and hostas should be planted lower.

Prepare a perennial bed by tilling and amending the soil at least a few days before planting. Ideally, this is a job for the previous fall. This gives the soil time to settle and mellow. If adding to an existing planting, begin by digging a hole about twice as big around as the roots of the plant and a few inches deeper. As for bedding plants, you can sprinkle in a little fertilizer or compost in the bottom and cover with soil. Water the potted plant and gently slide it from the container without breaking any roots. Carefully loosen some of the root soil. Tease any roots that have begun to grow in circles free of the root ball. Set in place and remove; refill the hole if necessary to adjust the planting depth. Backfill with soil from the hole and water well. As with bedding plants, pay perennials a little special attention until the roots are established.

Vines or climbers. Transplant vines or climbers from containers the same way as perennials. It is usually best to transplant in the spring to give the plant a chance to establish.

Install a trellis when planting climbers, or place the new plant near an existing support, such as a fence or tree. Supports, while necessary for climbers, pose a few challenges. Supports shelter the growing plant from essential rain or sprinkler water. If you use another plant as a support, the two will compete for water and nutrients. Plant climbers at least 1 foot from a support to reduce water deflection and allow for adequate air circulation. But plant them nearer tree trunks, however, since competing feeder roots spread out near the drip line rather than near the trunk.

Plant climbers grafted to a rootstock, such as wisteria and climbing roses, with the graft union below the soil level. This protects the union from extreme temperatures, and prompts the climber to send out its own roots. Also, clematis develops more buds if set about 2 inches deeper than it originally grew.

Shrubs and Trees. These are sold in containers or with the roots wrapped in burlap. The method for transplanting shrubs and trees is similar to the method used for other container plants, but on a larger scale. For roots wrapped in burlap, treat as you would a container plant, unless the soil crumbles. In that case don't worry, just proceed as for a bare-root plant. (See next section.)

Place the plant in the ground. Without burying the plant any deeper, backfill about halfway and water well. Finish filling the hole, water again, and gently firm the soil down. Shovel a ring of soil around the drip line. This forms a water-retaining well that pools water and funnels it to the plant's roots. Remove the well before hard frost or during heavy rains.

Trees require an additional Step. Many trees suffer root damage due to the effects of wind-rock. Winds rattle the tree, shaking it clear down to its unestablished roots. The motion tears tiny feeder roots, creates air pockets, and may prevent the tree from thriving. Place stakes or guy wires to keep the trunk in place while the roots gain strength. Don't make the common mistake of tying the tree down tightly. Tree roots need a little natural stress in order to grow strong. Make sure there is a little give in the tension of wires, or use a section of old rubber hose to tie the tree in place.

Transplanting Bedding Plants

Bedding plants and other small plants are easy to establish in the garden. They are already growing and have an active root system. Plant them in the spring as soon as it is warm enough for the species. But don't rush out with a new flat of plants, and stick them in the ground. First you must harden them off. Most bedding plants are grown under greenhouse conditions and are not yet ready to take on the real world. Here are four critical steps to success.

Hardening off. Toughen bedding plants first to stretch your plant dollars. Hardening off is a physical toughening of plant tissues. It takes only a few days and pays off in the survival rate and vigor of transplants. Whether bringing home plants from the garden center or preparing your homegrown transplants, this is a crucial step. Begin by placing the plants outside for about thirty minutes in a protected site, near a south wall for instance. Even a gentle breeze can seem like a howling gale to pampered plants. The next day increase the plants' time and exposure to the elements. Continue this routine for about a week.

Site preparation. While the plants are hardening off, prepare the site by removing all weeds, turning and amending the soil, and dusting with diazinon or diatomaceous earth to kill soil-dwelling bugs. Transplanting. Transplant on an overcast day or in the late afternoon. Use a garden trowel to dig holes for the transplants 1 to 2 inches deeper than the roots of the plants. Sprinkle a little fertilizer or 1 inch of compost at the bottom of each hole. Refill the hole so that the transplant rests at the same depth it grew in the container. Gently loosen the transplant's roots, and place in the hole. Pat into place, and water. Epsom salts (magnesium sulfate) makes a cheap fertilizer substitute for tomato transplants.

Coddle transplants. Coddle the transplants for a few days even though they have been hardened off. They will suffer less shock and will grow more quickly. Water frequently, but don't drown them. If the weather is windy, give them a wind break by placing a board or bale of straw between them and the prevailing wind. If it gets too hot or sunny, rig a shade cloth over them. A good start will result in more robust and productive plants when they mature.