Organic or Synthetic Fertilizers

A common misconception is that synthetic fertilizers are better than organic. Another misunderstanding is that organic is better than synthetic. You can make political or environmental arguments for synthetic or organic fertilizer, but the plants can't tell the difference as long as the nutrients are available. However, don't forget the many benefits of adding humus to your soil, which only organic amendments can supply. Brand labels mean nothing to plants. It's the fertilizer analysis that countsthe list of three, sometimes four, numbers listed on the bag. They stand for the percentage of nitrogen (designated by the international chemical symbol N), phosphorus (P), potassium (K), and when present, sulfur (S), in the product, in that order. As mentioned in Chapter 1, these are the major elements plants need (except sulfur, which is a secondary element). Trace elements are also necessary, but manufacturers may or may not list them on labels. Organic fertilizers are much more likely to include these than manufacturers of chemical formulas.

Plants can only use nutrients that have been reduced to the molecular form. Chemical fertilizers work so fast because they have already been processed into the molecular form, whereas organic fertilizers must first be broken down by soil microbes. This activity depends on soil temperature. Below 70°F, soil microorganisms work slower, which makes the nutrients in organic fertilizer unavailable to plants in cold soils. Organic fertilizers release nutrients over a period of time, unlike synthetic fertilizers which make the nutrients available at time of application.

Chemical fertilizers dissolve fairly quickly in water, which makes them easily accessible to plants. Their labels instruct to water thoroughly after application. Unfortunately, this ready solubility also means that chemical fertilizers, unlike slow-release organics, leach more quickly from the soil.

For the best results with the least expense, strategically combine the two types of fertilizer. In the spring, while the soil is still cool, apply chemical fertilizer to lawn, flower borders, and vegetable gardens. Once the soil is warm, switch to compost or another low-cost organic source. Organic fertilizers are not necessarily more costly than synthetics. This is commonly misstated, because the measurable amount of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium in synthetic fertilizers costs less per pound than those in many commercially prepared organic fertilizers. But those aren't the only sources of organic fertilizer. Once you know, roughly, the fertilizer analysis of organic compounds, which varies with different sources, you can mix your own fertilizers balanced for your particular needs, at a fraction of the cost.

This is where ingenuity and the willingness to scrounge for something pays off. I never buy fertilizer, and you don't have to either. So long as you supply the plants' nutrient requirements, it just doesn't matter to them where the nutrients come from, whether it is an organic or synthetic source.

Feeding Plants on a Budget

The most common mistake gardeners make is thinking more is better. If a bag of fertilizer says to apply a cup for every 10 feet of row, then two cups must make plants really grow. That is not the case. Manufacturer's instructions are not arbitrary numbers that somebody guessed at. Manufacturers base their instructions on the ability of plant roots to absorb nutrients in a set amount of time. This rate varies with the type, age, and health of the plant, as well as the soil type and texture.

Never Amend Backfill

Not only is it cheaper to use the original soil to backfill a planting hole, it is better for the plant. By digging a hole and filling it with amendments or foreign soil, you create an artificial environment with a dramatic interface between it and the surrounding native soil. The result is water does not flow freely between the two media, and plant roots become entrapped in the planting hole, much like they would in a container. At first, the plant will look normal, in fact, most plants will appear to thrive. After a while, the plant becomes virtually potbound and dies, leaving the conscientious backfiller to wonder why.

Transplanting Bare-Root Stock

Some of the best bargains in woody plants are bare-root plants. The selection is phenomenal, and it includes roses, grapes, blueberry bushes, canefruit, and many shrubs and trees.

Late winter is the best time to buy and plant. It is also the best time to dig up and move young plants that you have propagated yourself.

Plant bare-root plants as soon as you get them home, or dig them up, to prevent life-threatening dehydration. Bare-root plants are totally unprotected. If you cannot plant them immediately, place the plants in a bucket of water for no more than a few hours.

Check the plant carefully at both ends. Trim any damaged or spindly roots and cut back the top-growth in proportion to the roots. This seems to be a hard step for most gardeners, but the roots establish the life-blood of the plant and they must get top priority.

Prepare the soil the same as for container plants to transplant. Position the bare-root plant at the proper depth, again usually the same depth at which it grew previously. Build a cone of soil in the bottom of the hole and arrange the roots around it. Backfill, and water well.

Transplanting Container or Root-Ball Plants

Container plants, similar to bedding plants, have their roots established in a growing medium. Unlike spring bedding plants though, it is best to transplant container plants when doRmant.

Perennials. Grow them in containers or special beds in the garden. Transplant at any time, but spring and fall are preferable. Top-growth is slower at these times, yet roots are still developing. At this stage the plant has the greatest chance of establishing roots before going dormant for the winter. The fun part about planting perennials is planning where you will plant them. Try arranging extensive borders using just the plants you propagate yourself (or sneak in a few store-bought plants if you must).

Make sure you plant perennials at the proper depth. Transplant most perennials at the same level they grew in the container or the field, usually with the crown at soil level. Perennials that tend to rot at the base grow better if planted higher. Plants that require dampness near the crown, such as Solomon's Seal and hostas should be planted lower.

Prepare a perennial bed by tilling and amending the soil at least a few days before planting. Ideally, this is a job for the previous fall. This gives the soil time to settle and mellow. If adding to an existing planting, begin by digging a hole about twice as big around as the roots of the plant and a few inches deeper. As for bedding plants, you can sprinkle in a little fertilizer or compost in the bottom and cover with soil. Water the potted plant and gently slide it from the container without breaking any roots. Carefully loosen some of the root soil. Tease any roots that have begun to grow in circles free of the root ball. Set in place and remove; refill the hole if necessary to adjust the planting depth. Backfill with soil from the hole and water well. As with bedding plants, pay perennials a little special attention until the roots are established.

Vines or climbers. Transplant vines or climbers from containers the same way as perennials. It is usually best to transplant in the spring to give the plant a chance to establish.

Install a trellis when planting climbers, or place the new plant near an existing support, such as a fence or tree. Supports, while necessary for climbers, pose a few challenges. Supports shelter the growing plant from essential rain or sprinkler water. If you use another plant as a support, the two will compete for water and nutrients. Plant climbers at least 1 foot from a support to reduce water deflection and allow for adequate air circulation. But plant them nearer tree trunks, however, since competing feeder roots spread out near the drip line rather than near the trunk.

Plant climbers grafted to a rootstock, such as wisteria and climbing roses, with the graft union below the soil level. This protects the union from extreme temperatures, and prompts the climber to send out its own roots. Also, clematis develops more buds if set about 2 inches deeper than it originally grew.

Shrubs and Trees. These are sold in containers or with the roots wrapped in burlap. The method for transplanting shrubs and trees is similar to the method used for other container plants, but on a larger scale. For roots wrapped in burlap, treat as you would a container plant, unless the soil crumbles. In that case don't worry, just proceed as for a bare-root plant. (See next section.)

Place the plant in the ground. Without burying the plant any deeper, backfill about halfway and water well. Finish filling the hole, water again, and gently firm the soil down. Shovel a ring of soil around the drip line. This forms a water-retaining well that pools water and funnels it to the plant's roots. Remove the well before hard frost or during heavy rains.

Trees require an additional Step. Many trees suffer root damage due to the effects of wind-rock. Winds rattle the tree, shaking it clear down to its unestablished roots. The motion tears tiny feeder roots, creates air pockets, and may prevent the tree from thriving. Place stakes or guy wires to keep the trunk in place while the roots gain strength. Don't make the common mistake of tying the tree down tightly. Tree roots need a little natural stress in order to grow strong. Make sure there is a little give in the tension of wires, or use a section of old rubber hose to tie the tree in place.

Transplanting Bedding Plants

Bedding plants and other small plants are easy to establish in the garden. They are already growing and have an active root system. Plant them in the spring as soon as it is warm enough for the species. But don't rush out with a new flat of plants, and stick them in the ground. First you must harden them off. Most bedding plants are grown under greenhouse conditions and are not yet ready to take on the real world. Here are four critical steps to success.

Hardening off. Toughen bedding plants first to stretch your plant dollars. Hardening off is a physical toughening of plant tissues. It takes only a few days and pays off in the survival rate and vigor of transplants. Whether bringing home plants from the garden center or preparing your homegrown transplants, this is a crucial step. Begin by placing the plants outside for about thirty minutes in a protected site, near a south wall for instance. Even a gentle breeze can seem like a howling gale to pampered plants. The next day increase the plants' time and exposure to the elements. Continue this routine for about a week.

Site preparation. While the plants are hardening off, prepare the site by removing all weeds, turning and amending the soil, and dusting with diazinon or diatomaceous earth to kill soil-dwelling bugs. Transplanting. Transplant on an overcast day or in the late afternoon. Use a garden trowel to dig holes for the transplants 1 to 2 inches deeper than the roots of the plants. Sprinkle a little fertilizer or 1 inch of compost at the bottom of each hole. Refill the hole so that the transplant rests at the same depth it grew in the container. Gently loosen the transplant's roots, and place in the hole. Pat into place, and water. Epsom salts (magnesium sulfate) makes a cheap fertilizer substitute for tomato transplants.

Coddle transplants. Coddle the transplants for a few days even though they have been hardened off. They will suffer less shock and will grow more quickly. Water frequently, but don't drown them. If the weather is windy, give them a wind break by placing a board or bale of straw between them and the prevailing wind. If it gets too hot or sunny, rig a shade cloth over them. A good start will result in more robust and productive plants when they mature.

Windowpanes or Grow Lights

The final consideration for starting seeds indoors is their individual light requirements. Most seeds germinate best in darkness, but some won't sprout without a little light. Knowing the light requirements of the seeds you sow prevents mysterious disappointments.
The light level is just as important after the seeds sprout. If grown at room temperature, they need supplemental light to prevent spindly growth. Plants grown on windowsills will do fine if the microclimate near the window is cool enough.

The alternative is to purchase cool-watt fluorescent lights. Sold as shop lights in 4- and 8-foot lengths, the lights are inexpensive and perfectly adequate for the task. They do not radiate the full sun spectrum, but unless you intend to hold seedlings until they flower, they won't need the full sun spectrum. The range of light waves from shop lights are just what seedlings need. Hang the lights within a few inches of the plants' tops, and adjust the lights as the seedlings grow.

Start Your Own Seeds in Containers

You can start transplants either indoors in containers or in a cold frame. Start them under controlled conditions to get a jump on the growing season. For gardeners in areas with short growing seasons, this is standard practice. Also, plants that originated in the tropics, such as tomatoes or peppers, require a long, warm growing season to ripen fruit. Start them as transplants.
Starting seeds in containers requires seeds, a growing medium, and containers. Quell that stingy urge to use garden soil in containers. As discussed in Chapter 1, it compacts and carries disease organisms to which seedlings may succumb. A bag of seed-starting medium is not a bad investment, or mix your ow.
The next consideration is the container. The only requirements for transplant containers is that they must be at least 21/2 inches deep to allow for young, spreading roots, and they must have drainage holes. Those nicely matching plastic models at the garden center are a landfill nightmare. If you must buy them, use them carefully, wash thoroughly, and re-use them.

Do you need some suggestions to get started looking for free containers? Piece together wooden flats from scrap lumber, but make sure they are not painted or coated with a toxic preservative. Don't use old painted wood or treated lumber as it may contain toxins that could leach into the container soil. Cut milk cartons lengthwise and slice a few holes
in the bottom for drainage. Large, wax-coated cereal boxes and styrofoarn take-out containers are made to order. For a built-in greenhouse effect save plastic boxes from delis or bakeries. Poke holes in the bottom, fill, plant, and put the lid on. Wash out used margarine or yogurt cups and plastic trays from snack foods. Save toilet paper rolls, cut in half, arrange on a tray, and fill. Learn to find food-safe containers.

If you start seeds indoors, scrounge up trays to place beneath the draining containers. A shallow box lined with plastic wrap, plastic container lids, or cookie trays will work in a pinch.

Temperature is critical to how many seeds germinate and develop. Room temperature, 65° to 70°F works well to germinate most plants. Heating mats or tape underneath the seed containers encourage roots to grow downward. Once plants sprout, however, remove the bottom heat as cooler temperatures produce sturdier plants.

Sow the seed as for direct seeding. Don't worry about spacing. As soon as the seedlings show two to four leaves, carefully lift by the leaves and transplant into individual containers. Never pick up tiny seedlings by the stem because they will crush easily.

Planting Bulbs, Corms, and Tubers

Not all plants start best from seed. Many, such as tulips, gladiolus, and dahlias, propagate best from underground storage organs (as discussed in Chapter 3). The methods for planting bulbs, corms, and tubers are similar to planting seed, except bulbs used for naturalizing or planted in grass. In these cases, don't prepare the soil in advance, instead use a handy bulb planter for forming holes.

For perennials, use a hand trowel to dig holes about three times deeper than the width of the bulb. This insulates the bulbs from extreme temperatures. Irises are one exception. Plant them with part of the rhizome above ground. Planting irises too deeply will kill them. Likewise, plant onions and garlic with the tops nearly exposed.

It is absolutely critical to place bulbs, corms, and other underground storage organs in the soil with the growing tip facing the sky. If you are not sure which end is the growing tip, check for roots. The growing tip is on the opposite end. Dahlias and other tuberous plants should have small growing shoots coming out of the tuber. Plant them so the tips of the shoots point up. Make sure you don't break or damage growing tips. Sprinkle a little bone meal in the hole before placing the bulb to help the roots develop. Place the bulb in the hole, fill with the soil removed from it, and press down gently.

Planting Seed at the Right Temperature

It is important to know the temperature tolerance of the seeds you plant. Cool-season plants will sprout and grow at 40°F. Due to the process of microbial breakdown, however, cold soil has few organic nutrients available to plants. But warm-season plants will rot at 40°F. Most plants germinate very well at temperatures between 60° and 70°F.

Saving Money on Seeds

When buying plants, seeds are much cheaper than transplants. Compare two extremes. Tetraploid pelargoniums cost $2.95 for a packet of only five seeds, nearly 60¢ for each plant. A transplant, however, costs around $3. Of course, you have to factor in the cost of growing the seed, but after doing that, even expensive seed is still a bargain. Then there are the seeds you buy on sale or wholesale, or those you save from your own plants. Outside of a few pennies for seed, soil, and water, the costs are negligible for a homegrown transplant.

Tucked away in its cozy little hiding place, protected by a tough seedcoat, a baby plant waits to make its grand entrance into the world. When conditions of light, temperature, and moisture are just right, which varies by the type of seed, the embryo bursts forth. It carries just enough nutrition in the seed for the incredible feat of breaking free and stretching upward. Afterwards, it makes its own food. Through the miraculous process of photosynthesis, plant cells convert light, air, water, and soil nutrients into sugars, starches, and proteins. Seeds may be direct seeded, which means planted directly into the garden where they will grow, or started in containers for later transplanting. Most plants are better suited to one method than the other.

Direct Seeding
This is the original plan for seed-bearing plants. They flower, set seed, and some seeds manage to get a foothold. Some types of garden seeds, especially those that develop extensive root systems, are best suited to direct seeding. Direct seeding begins with preparing a seed-bed. Begin by removing all weeds and cultivating the soil. Rent a rototiller or get a good workout turning the soil by hand. Rake the soil to remove any clumps, sticks, or rocks, and break the soil into fine particles. Water the area the day before planting so the soil is moist. You may want to treat the soil with an insecticide, such as diazinon (one of the less toxic of the chemical insecticides) or diatomaceous earth (an organic alternative), especially in soil freshly turned from sod. If soil-dwelling insects such as army-worms or cutworms get your plants before they emerge, you not only waste the money, time, and effort of planting, but you fall behind in the growing season. Space seed plantings to avoid wasting seeds and having to pull out healthy plants later.

You can broadcast seeds or plant them in rows. Spice dispensers, such as those for salt substitutes, make handy, free seed broadcasters. Those with smaller holes work for small-seeded crops, such as carrots; those with larger holes, are great for bigger seeds, such as marigolds. Fill the dispenser and gently scatter the seeds evenly over the prepared area. Scatter tiny seeds more evenly by mixing with fine sand for a carrying medium. To plant in rows, use a dibble, made from a stick or your finger, to poke a hole the appropriate depth into the soil, and drop a seed or two in each hole. Use either method for raised beds or wide rows.

I include broadcast seeding because many gardeners use it, but I don't. I think it wastes seed. It is faster than placing each individual seed where it belongs. Much of the time saved is imaginary, because thinning the thickly sprouted seeds takes time. Since it is more difficult for me to justify yanking out a perfectly healthy seedling than it is to space my plantings in the first place, I take the extra few minutes spacing seeds according to their size at maturity. Since I plant wide rows in raised beds, I space the seeds a certain distance apart from a center point. For example, carrot seeds are 3 inches apart on all sides and bean seeds are 4-inches apart.

Once planted, cover seeds lightly with fine soil. The standard rule of thumb is cover seeds with soil two or three times as deep as the seed's thickness. Gently press on soil over the seeds until dirt is firm. Remember to keep moist. Tender seedlings will die if allowed to dry out.

When starting vining plants, such as pole beans, scarlet runner beans, or sweet peas, plant a support along with them. Another prime candidate for direct seeding is a lawn. Till and amend the soil; most lawns benefit from tilling in peat moss or other organic matter. Rake until as even as possible, then compact with a roller, a large metal drum you rent and fill half-full with water for weight.

Seed evenly with a spreader by walking across the area first in one direction, then perpendicular to the first pattern, and finally at a diagonal. This pattern prevents bare spots.

The best germination depends on good seed, warm temperatures, and constant moisture. Until the grass is about 1 inch tall, water it every day. Spread a grass seed mulch over the seed to reduce water loss. You will save money substantially by planting your own lawn rather than laying sod or hiring someone else to install it either way.

Tips on Planting Many Types of Plants

Garden Vegetables
This may sound a little obvious, but grow what you like to eat. No matter how good a crop you turn out, it's a waste of time and money if no one eats it. The second important consideration for a cost-effective plot is to grow only those crops which are cheaper to grow than buy. Why toil over a bed of spuds when you can buy 10 pounds for $1.59? Actually, there are a couple of sound exceptions to this rule. If your heart's desire is for a vegetable variety unavailable at the grocery store, grow your own. If you worry about an organic diet, grow your own. But if cost is a factor, leave the cheap vegetables to the truck farmers.

Herbs
Herbs are among the most trouble-free plants to grow, rarely bothered by pests or diseases. This is an endearing quality to the gardener who likes to save time and money. Most are attractive plants that add beauty to the landscape and many are exquisitely fragrant. They fit in anywhere; interplant into a border or grow in containers, a windowbox, or a pot on a sunny kitchen windowsill.

Look at some of the wonderful ways you can save money through the benefit of homegrown herbs. Grow gourmet cooking herbs such as Italian parsley or cilantro, that are often difficult to find in grocery stores. Common culinary herbs such as dill, oregano, sage, and tarragon transcend into gourmet delights when homegrown and just-picked fresh. Moreover, all herbs seem to taste better when you know you didn't have to pay the high prices they bring at the market. Grow mints, chamomile, and lemon balm, among others, to create your own soothing teas at a fraction the cost of store-bought. You can also dry herbs to use and enjoy all through the year, or to give as gifts.

Small Fruits
Berries and other small fruits add a touch of sweetness to the summer garden. While expensive in the supermarket, most small fruits are easy to grow.

Annual and Perennial Flowers
We appreciate flowers for their marvelous colors, textures and aromas. Annuals provide color all season, while gardeners wait patiently for perennial favorites. By blending the two types, you can create a lasting portrait in living color.

Turf and Ground Covers
Choices in ground covers have expanded wildly in the last few years. From play turf to low-maintenance 'Blue Carpet' juniper, there is something for every lifestyle and every pocketbook. As nice as a lawn is, consider the time and expense that goes into maintaining it, and alternatives become all the more attractive. Many tolerate drought much better than a lawn, which saves you money on watering. And most add visual interest to the landscape that turf can't touch. Those listed tend to spread readily to cover the area, another valuable characteristic.

Climbers and Vines
Climbers and vines add interest to spaces that might otherwise go bare. Use them to create a privacy screen or to obstruct an unpleasant view. Quick growing annuals are handy for a nearly instant solution to such landscape problems, while perennials provide long-term cover. Growing and training vines is easy. Direct seed or transplant annuals where you want them to grow, and provide a trellis or other support structure at planting time. Plant perennial vines as you would other perennials. The method differs somewhat for container plants and bare root plants.

Landscape Shrubs
The main reason for landscape shrubs is to provide visual interest in the yard or garden. Those that stand out remain attractive even after their main growing season. Shrubs also provide a haven for birds.

Shade and Landscape Trees
Few things in life are more rewarding than trees. They provide shade, privacy, and good company. Recommended types on the next page are low-maintenance, and offer at least two seasons of interest.

The Value of a Plant's Character

What characteristics do you look for in the plants you choose? Do you prefer a particular size and shape, a certain flower color, or productivity in food plants? As mentioned before, only the plants that suit your taste as well as your site, belong in your garden. But once you have decided your preferences for the more obvious qualities, consider some characteristics that will really save you money in the long-run.

Disease Resistance
Two rose bushes are next to each other in a border garden. One is practically defoliated, with the remaining leaves covered in black blotches. The other has full leaves and boasts blooms to boot. What makes the difference? Some plants are just naturally more resistant to disease than others are, and we don't always know why. Perhaps the cuticle, the waxy coating, on the leaves of the healthy rose bush is thicker, less acidic, or tougher than that of the sick rose bush. Physical and chemical attributes account for much of the mystique of natural resistance. We may not know exactly whysome plants resist illness, but we know disease resistance exists. Unfortunately, resistance often varies with climate or locale. Still, resistant varieties help you save money fighting plant diseases or replacing lost plants. Look for varieties that are resistant to diseases that are particularly prevalent in your area. Don't assume that just because you bought certified disease-free plants or resistant varieties, your plants will never get sick. The rest is up to you. Just as you can keep susceptible plants healthy with proper care, disease-resistant plants can get sick if not maintained properly.

Drought Resistance
Plants that evolved in arid places had to adapt in order to survive. Thin leaves, a glossy coating, fuzzy stems, or fleshy plant parts all help prevent water loss. Cacti are the classic example of drought resistance. But other plants also tolerate a lack of water. Remember that newly transplanted specimens usually will need to be kept moist until they adapt to their new surroundings.

Cold Hardiness
Frost damage can affect plants in many ways. Spring frosts may kill flowering buds, ruining a flowering or fruiting season, but causing little or no permanent damage. Severe winter cold may split branches or stems, which can kill the plant.
Gardeners who live in cold climate areas, including high elevations or northern latitudes, learn quickly to rely on short-season, late-blooming, and cold-hardy plants. If you garden in such an area, look for these designations when choosing varieties. Plants that evolved in cold climates developed some clever tricks for foiling frost. Short-season varieties take less time to flower or fruit than others of their type. They don't really tolerate cold, they avoid it. Late bloomers don't break bud in the spring until after hard frosts, hopefully. And cold-hardy perennials, shrubs, and trees have a unique method of surviving winter's chill, called super-cooling.
Cool temperatures alone don't cause winter damage. Dehydrating winds, bright sun, and temperature fluctuations all contribute to damage. Water retained in cells, freezing and swelling, and thawing and refreezing causes structural damage to plants. Cells burst and irreparably damage tissues.

Sun and Heat Tolerance
Severe cold as well as unrelenting heat, can damage plant tissues. With too much sun and heat, blossoms fade and fall, leaves drop, and fruit fails to develop. Even if plants are well-watered, the rate of transpiration (see Chapter 1) often outpaces the ability of the roots to absorb and replace lost moisture. But some plants have found ways to beat the heat.

Why You Should Go Native

The plants best suited to your area are those nature put there. Check with your County Extension Service for ideas and sources. The trick to incorporating native plants is to get rid of any images of perfectly mowed grass surrounded by a neatly trimmed hedge. Wander out into the country and look at how nature arranges plants. A word of caution is necessary here. Not only is it bad manners to go out and lift plants from the wild, in many cases it is downright illegal. Check with your local Audubon Society Chapter or native plant society to determine whether a plant is endangered. Removing endangered plants from the wild is prohibited, and even collecting seeds from such plants may be restricted. In the case of others, you must have permission from a private property owner before digging up desirable natives. You can, however, make note of the plants you want, and gather seeds in the fall. Going native doesn't necessarily mean including only local plants in the landscape. Your hometown surely is unique, but there are other regions throughout the world with similar climateslatitude, altitude, and distance from large bodies of water. Plants from similar zones often grow equally as well in one as in another. For instance, Rugosa roses, native to the Far East, thrive in seaboard towns everywhere. Alpine plants from Switzerland flourish in rock gardens in Minnesota and Oregon. Cacti from Arizona prosper in any dry area. The idea is to use plants found in similar regions.

Nursery Shopping Strategy

The very best way to get top-quality plants from your local garden center or nursery is to get the best service. The people who work there are your most valuable resource. They know the quality of their product, their wholesalers, when the plants arrived, how they were cared for, and any problems that may exist. Do yourself a favor; get to know these folks.

Know When to Shop
Plants arrive at the garden center from the supplier in the best possible condition, given the rigors of shipment. They sometimes go downhill from there. When scouting for plants, call and ask when the store expects to receive their shipment from their best supplier, and show up when the plants arrive. Not only will you get the healthiest possible plants, but you will also get first pick.
You won't get a bargain if you wait for plants to go on sale. If a plant has been sitting on a rack for months, especially if it doesn't receive proper care, then it probably won't amount to much. The best bets among such plants are perennials, but only if the price is really low. If you feel you can bring a plant around, then by all means take a cheap gamble. Otherwise, spend wisely, and buy early.


Signs of a Good Investment
Blossoms are the one feature that attract buyers most readily. Yet seedlings that have been forced into bloom in order to make them more tempting to buyers can actually result in less productive plants in the long run. The stress of life with few roots and a big head slows plant vigor.

Look for compact, vigorous plants that appear healthy. Pass by plants with dead or yellowing leaves or those that have grown leggy. Be wary of unstable stems or plants that look poorly rooted. Well-rooted plants will recover from transplant shock much more quickly than those with poorly developed roots. If you can find plants that are not yet in bloom, consider them first.

When buying perennials always look at the roots, because that is the future of the plant. A healthy root system ensures the plant will live to bloom for years to come.

No matter what type of plant you are buying, look it over thoroughly for any signs of pests or diseases. Never buy sick or infested plants at any price.

Two More Tricks to Cheap Seeds

Once upon a time I ran a bedding plant business. I think I made about $200 that year. But from that experience I learned something so obvious it's embarrassing. Wholesale is cheaper than retail. And nowhere is that more obvious than in the seed business.
Owning a small greenhouse business has its advantages, not the least of which is you get to write things off on your taxes and maybe even realize a profit. You also get to buy from wholesale distributors. The price is always much less than retail. The catch is you must buy in quantity. This is not really a problem since most seed keeps for years, or you could resell some, perhaps at a reasonable mark-up, to gardening pals.

If you are not interested in going into business, then watch those seed-rack displays. Seed companies only sell seed packaged for the current year. At the end of each season, you can get mega-bargains on this year's product. Often seeds that sold for $1 a packet, sell at ten packets for $1 when the stores are clearing inventory. Garden centers offer the least drastic discounts, while grocery stores, hardware stores, and other stores not normally in the garden supply business just want to get rid of them. A word of caution, however, is remember that the perfect environment for storing seed is a cool, dry place. Don't buy from seed racks exposed to rain or excess summer heat. The seed may be ruined.

Dealing with Seed Bargains

Mail-order catalogs and display racks everywhere from garden centers to grocery and hardware stores sell seeds. Which sources offer the best bargains?

Mail-order seed companies are big business. Pick up a catalog and wander through those glossy pages of perfect plants; you can't help but be tempted to order many. Rule number one is to take the pictures with a grain of salt. Your plants probably won't look just like the picture-perfect ones.

Compare several catalogs, and you will quickly find that most are selling the same seeds, packaged a little differently in a range of prices. Look for the best-priced varieties with the color, flavor, texture, growth habit, or other traits you desire. Hint: It's not always the biggest company that offers the smallest price. Furthermore small seed companies often focus on local conditions and offer varieties that will thrive in your immediate area. Check them first if there are any near you.

Gardening magazines often have a seed-savers exchange section. Someone has saved variety X and would like to trade for Y. These are a great way to get seedsoften rare or heirloom varieties that are hard to find elsewhere. There are seed-saving clubs, such as the Seed Savers Exchange, the members of which trade thousands of seed varieties. (See page 156 for address.) Finally, plant associations abound for nearly every kind of plantfrom alpines to water lilies. National groups usually send out a newsletter in which members often list plants they have to offer. If you have a real passion for a particular kind of plant, get involved with the local chapter of the appropriate association. (Of course, the really cheap way is to become friends with someone who is already a member and borrow a copy of the newsletter!)

Where to Find Homeless Plants

Digging up someone else's landscape is obviously a bad idea, but there are a number of valuable resources for finding unwanted plants. Landscape companies frequently redesign existing plantings, both residential and commercial. Construction firms remove existing plants everyday when expanding structures, usually with a bulldozer. If you make contact with these people and offer to remove unwanted plants for free, you may find yourself with more plants than you can handle.

No matter what the source of a secondhand plant, transplant only healthy-looking specimens. A free diseased plant can become quite costly.

Slightly Used Plants

Another way to save on plant costs is to ''reuse" grown plants from your own garden, or those unwanted by others.

One of the best reasons to belong to a garden club, apart from the friendship, is that members give each other or sell cheaply perfectly good plants. Plant swaps or sales are standard among clubs and a great way to increase your plant collection. If you're not a member of a formal club, create the same opportunities simply by talking with others about your garden and theirs. Once people know you are a plant nut, they offer you all kinds of plant items.


Plants move around some people's yards more than the people. A shrub just doesn't prosper in a particular corner. A rose bush might clash with a climbing vine. It's actually a lot like moving furniture around until you create just the perfect setting in your outdoor room. Furniture doesn't suffer transplant shock, however. The first rule of thumb for digging up and relocating any plant is to wait until the plant is dormant. This causes the least possible amount of stress on the plant. Fall is usually the best time. For most perennials, dig down around the perimeter of the plant to create a rootball large enough to accommodate the plant. For shrubs and trees, a burlap wrap will help hold the rootball in place. Dig a trench around the perimeter of the plant branches, the dripline, and use a fork or spade to pull as much soil away from roots as possible to create a ball of soil. Tip the rootball up with the edge of a shovel, and shuffle the burlap underneath. Repeat around the plant, shifting the burlap until it encircles the roots. For heavy shrubs or trees, you may need to slide a board or two underneath the rootball to create enough leverage to move the plant. Lift the plant carefully and transport.

You can dig up plants routinely sold bare rootsuch as roses, grapes, raspberries, blueberries, and many shrubsand treat them the same way as a bare-root transplant . A younger plant has better chances of survival.

Bulbs, Corms, and Tubers

These are underground plant parts used to store energy for the coming year. Plants that grow from bulbs include common favorites, such as crocus, daffodil, narcissus, and tulips, as well as a range of others. They routinely develop offsets, smaller versions of themselves that you can separate from the parent.

Reap the bounty of tiny bulbs by lifting a clump with a fork and carefully pulling the bulblets free. Pot them and let grow for a year or two before planting outside. Some of the more common bulbs reproduce as follows:

Lilies form little bulbs along the length of the stem, which you can pluck and plant.

Gladiolus grow from corms, similar to underground bulbs, and you can separate them the same way.

Dahlias grow from large, fleshy tubers. In most parts of the country, you must dig them up every fall and bring them in from the cold. In the spring, as buds form, cut the tuber into sections. Make sure you include a couple of buds on each section.

Divide and Multiply

Dividing is a quick way to multiply your collection of perennials, succulents, and some suckering shrubs. Dividing yields two or more plants from one, and it is healthier for the original plant than being left to overcrowd itself.

The best time to divide most plants is from late fall to early spring. Avoid especially cold or wet periods as these make it tough for the divided plants to reestablish. Plants with fleshy roots, such as irises, peonies, and poppies, have a better chance of rooting if divided in late summer.

Begin by gently digging around the base of the plant to expose the perimeters of it. Then carefully lift the plant with a garden fork. Shake or brush off as much soil as possible so you can see what you are doing. Often with older plants, there will be a dead spot of brown stems in the center of the plant. Cut this out and divide the remaining growth. The simplest way to divide most plants is to grasp large sections by hand and gently, but firmly, pull them apart. Plants that can't be pulled apart can be cut through with a sharp spade. Make sure you leave a few buds on each division.

You can dust any cuts with a fungicide to curb infection. Cut back the tops and place the new plants in the ground at the same height they were growing before, and water.

How to Take Root Cuttings

Step 1: Gently dig through the soil to expose young, growing roots, approximately pencil-size. Herbaceous perennials may be thinner.

Step 2: With a sharp knife cut the root straight across, and place an angled cut further down the root. This way you can tell which end is up.

Step 3: If you must transport the cutting, wrap it in a moist paper towel.

Step 4: Remove any fibrous roots. You can divide long cuttings and shorten thinner ones to between 3 and 5 inches. Make a fresh, slanted cut in each piece to designate top and bottom.

Step 5: Dip cutting into rooting hormone.

Step 6: Insert cutting into moist rooting medium with the slanted end down and the straight-cut-end level with the surface. For thin roots, lay them sideways, and cover lightly with soil. You can root some species, such as lilac and sumac, directly into the garden site.

Step 7: Pot or transplant roots after a few leaves develop.

Leave it alone, except to water, until the end of the next growing season. If the roots are strong, then cut the new plant from the parent and transplant.

A variation, called serpentine layering, involves anchoring a long stem to the soil in several spots. It's a great way to make several copies of plants, such as clematis or climbing roses, that send out long, flexible stems.

Some plants, raspberry and blackberry varieties in particular, reproduce readily by tip-layering. It works like simple layering, except you bury the tip of the vine.

Another technique is air layering, whereby you trick the stem into believing it has been anchored in the soil. Remove any leaves that are in the way. Make a sleeve from plastic wrap and fit it over or around the stem; wrap the bottom with tape. Make a slanted cut upwards into the stem with a sharp knife, and quickly pack around the stem with moist sphagnum moss using the back of the knife. Pull the sleeve up, pack fully with more damp moss, and seal the top of the plastic sleeve firmly with tape. Eventually roots will show through the plastic. At this point, cut the stem off just below the new root ball and pot up the new plant.

How to Take Leaf Cuttings

Step 1: Cut a healthy leaf from the parent plant.

Step 2: If you must transport it, wrap leaf in moist towel.

Step 3: Place it in moist rooting medium. There are different ways to do this. The leaf may be set upright so the blade is in contact with the rooting medium. You also can cut several nicks along the length of the veins, and press the leaf flat, vein-side down in the rooting medium. Or cut the leaf lengthwise and insert into rooting medium with the cut-side down to expose the veins.

Step 4: Cover with clear plastic.

Step 5: Water it and keep away from direct sunlight.

Step 6: Pot new plants after a few leaves appear.

If you master the art of taking stem cuttings, you may find yourself suddenly surrounded by new plants. Some plants root more easily than others. If a cutting doesn't root well in the spring, try again later in the season. Since plants mature at different rates, in different climes, and even in different years, there always will be some variability. Keep records to refine the practice for your area.

This method of creating free plants is well-suited to houseplants. Roots form along the veins and usually several new plantlets emerge from each leaf cutting.

How to Take Stem Cuttings

Step 1: With a sharp knife, slice the stem of the parent plant approximately 1 inch beneath a node.

Step 2: If you must transport the cutting, gently wrap it in a moistened, absorbent paper towel.

Step 3: Trim end of stem to just below a node. Often you can take several cuttings from each collected stem. Snip off any flowers and all but two or three leaves.

Step 4: Dip in rooting hormone, if desired. These products prompt root cells to divide. Place cuttings in moist rooting medium. Some plants, such as pelargonium and coleus, will root in a glass of water.

Step 5: Cover cuttings with plastic.

Step 6: Pot or transplant cuttings when new growth shows.
you get plants and make friends. If you appear presentable, courteous, and knowledgeable, you will assuage any fears that you might damage their precious plants. Offer to propagate a cutting for the gardener, as well as yourself. This one almost always works!

Take cuttings from the stem, leaves, or roots of various plant species. Stem cuttings are referred to as softwood, greenwood, or hardwood. Softwood cuttings are those taken in the spring before new growth begins to harden. They are the easiest to root.

Greenwood cuttings are taken in the summer before the stems have fully matured. They root a little slower, but on average are more likely to survive. Hardwood cuttings are taken from mature stems at the end of the growing season. They are usually the slowest to root. Leaf cuttings, reserved for fleshy-leaved plants, can be taken anytime during the growing season. Root cuttings are taken from dormant shrubs or trees. Often one method works better than the others for a specific plant; even varieties within a species respond differently.

Cutting a piece from a plant and having a whole new plant form may seem like magic to non-gardeners, comparable to cutting off your finger and growing a twin.
you get plants and make friends. If you appear presentable, courteous, and knowledgeable, you will assuage any fears that you might damage their precious plants. Offer to propagate a cutting for the gardener, as well as yourself. This one almost always works!
Take cuttings from the stem, leaves, or roots of various plant species. Stem cuttings are referred to as softwood, greenwood, or hardwood. Softwood cuttings are those taken in the spring before new growth begins to harden. They are the easiest to root. Greenwood cuttings are taken in the summer before the stems have fully matured. They root a little slower, but on average are more likely to survive. Hardwood cuttings are taken from mature stems at the end of the growing season. They are usually the slowest to root. Leaf cuttings, reserved for fleshy-leaved plants, can be taken anytime during the growing season. Root cuttings are taken from dormant shrubs or trees. Often one method works better than the others for a specific plant; even varieties within a species respond differently.
Cutting a piece from a plant and having a whole new plant form may seem like magic to non-gardeners, comparable to cutting off your finger and growing a twin.

Why Sowing Seeds is Satisfying?

Some plants just won't give you the satisfaction of saving and using your own seed. They are do-it-yourselfers or self-sowers. If you don't pluck every last spent blossom from plants such as calendula, French marigolds, forget-me-nots, or sweet alyssum, they will seed themselves back. Personally, I like this approach. You not only save money, but also time and effort.

Often second-generation seeds won't grow up to look just like their parents, which is fine as long as they produce interesting or attractive plants. When weeding in the spring look for familiar seedlings, lest you accidently cull volunteer flowers (self-sown plants that pop up unexpectedly).
Self-Sowing Plants:

Allowing plants to self-sow can save you money, time, and effort. But you have to be prepared for some surprises. Here's a brief guide to well-known self-sowers.

Will Grow True to Type:
Blue Cornflower, Calendula, Dill, French Marigold, Godetia, Love-in-a-Mist, Nasturtiums, Sweet Alyssum, Yellow Corydalis, Violets, Pansies.

Type Will Change With New Generation:
Forget-me-not, Foxglove, Snapdragon.

Sowing Saved Seeds

The final step toward renewing your plant population is to sow the seeds. Chapter 6 describes how to start seeds and when to transplant. There is one other consideration, however, with home-cured seeds. Some types need a little help to sprout.

Most vegetable seeds don't need special attention to germinate. Soaking large vegetable seeds for one to two hours helps accelerate the process, but it is not absolutely necessary. Most flowers also don't require special treatment. A few perennial and shrub seeds, however, have unusual requirements.

Certain seeds, such as yarrow, or some varieties of aster or dianthus, remain dormant for a long time and will germinate best after their second year in storage. Others, such as some forms of primula or rhododendron, only germinate well when sowed fresh. Soaking seeds of camellia, cystitus, and other shrubs greatly enhances their germination rates.

Some seeds, such as those of lupine or peonies, are so tough they should be scarified. This means gently nicking or sanding the seed coat to give the embryo an escape route.

Testing Stored Seeds

Faster germination results in more vigorous plants. For this to occur a high percentage of the seeds should sprout within the normal time for its type. To determine how well your seeds have survived storage, perform a germination test.

Moisten a paper towel or coffee filter, place ten or twenty seeds on it, and seal in a zip-seal plastic bag. Open daily to check for germination. After the appropriate amount of time has passed for that type of seed, count the number of sprouts to figure the percentage.

Five out of ten seeds and ten out of twenty seeds gives a 50 percent rate. More seeds in the test will yield more accurate results. Seeds that show a better than 70 percent germination rate are average, over 80 percent are good, and better than 90 percent are great to plant.
Don't bother planting poorly germinating seeds. They won't produce superior plants, a necessity for getting the most from your gardening dollar. Always start with the best seed possible, even if you have to go out and buy it.

Storing Seeds

You can find good, cheap containers for storing seeds around your house, including old prescription bottles, glass jars with screw-on lids, and plastic film canisters. These containers all protect from outside moisture and pests. If you have some very small packets of seeds, label and store them within a larger container.

Seeds must be kept dry and cool, otherwise they rot or sprout. Humidity of less than 60 percent, and temperatures between 32°F and 41°F are ideal. Add a packet of desiccant powder (such as silica gel) or powdered milk, to combat high humidity. The gel absorbs best. Under good conditions, many types of seed will remain viable for years. The longer you store seeds, the less viable and vigorous they will be. The following table lists some common seeds and their storage life expectancies. Commercially packed seed may store longer than home-grown.

HOW TO COLLECT VEGETABLE SEEDS

Asparagus. Only female plants produce the berries which contain seeds. Harvest when berries turn red.

Beans & Peas. Leave the pods on the plant until dry.

Broccoli. Let buds flower and develop until pods form. Collect after the pods have dried on the plant.

Cabbage. This biennial sends up seed stalk which develops pods. Pick after pods have turned yellow.

Carrot. Seeds on this biennial ripen about 60 days after flowering. Carrots cross with the weed Queen Anne's Lace, so don't allow it nearby.
Cauliflower. Pick after pods turn brown.

Corn. Different varieties cross-pollinate. Keep them separated by at least 100 feet or cover ears with a paper bag before the silks emerge. Hand-pollinate by covering tassels with a paper bag to collect pollen, and then by sprinkling pollen over silks. Allow the ears to ripen on the plant. Husk corn, and hang it until kernels are dry.

Cucumbers. Different cultivars cross-pollinate, so isolate them. Pick after cucumbers turn yellow. Scrape out seed pulp and wash seeds.

Dill. Let seeds dry on plant.

Eggplant. Pick when fruit turns dull and wrinkly. Separate seeds from flesh.

Lettuce. Wait for the last plants to bolt, then let flower. Harvest when fluffy, white seeds form.

Melons. Harvest fruit when ripe, scrape out seeds, rinse, and dry.

Okra. Allow pods to ripen on plant.

Onion. Harvest flowering tops as soon as black seeds are visible. Dry for a few weeks, then gently rub off the seeds.

Peppers. Wait until the fruit has reached the appropriate color for its variety; most turn red. Cut off the top of the pepper and shake or scoop out seeds.

Potatoes. Seeds do develop, but planting from seed potatoes is easiest. Dig up future seed potatoes and let dry in the sun to improve storage. Never do this with eating spuds, because they turn green and bitter.

Pumpkins & Squash. Allow fruit to ripen fully and scrape out seeds.

Radishes. Let flower and harvest when seed pods are dry.

Spinach. Let seeds ripen on plants.

Sunflowers. Allow them to dry on the stalk. You may need to cover sunflowers to protect from birds.

Tomatoes. Pick overripe fruit; squeeze pulp and seeds into a jar. Allow to ferment at room temperature for three or four days. Stir daily and pour off any liquid and floating seeds. Keep only the seeds that sink; rinse and dry them.

Turnips. Dig up this biennial, and overwinter 1-year-old plants in a root cellar. Replant in spring for seed production. Harvest seed pods when dry.

Collecting Seeds

Once you have seeds, the next step is to gather and prepare them for storage. For most plants, it is critical to wait until the seeds are ripe before you harvest them. Failure to do so results in seeds with a low germination rate and poor vigor. Some exceptions are snap beans, lettuce, radishes, spinach, and tomatoes, which germinate fairly well when a little underripe. Although the seeds must be ripe, it also is important to make sure they are not yet rotten or expelled by the plant when harvesting. A dry, sunny day is perfect for gathering seeds or seed fruit.

The method of harvest depends on the type of plant. Many annual flowers, lettuce, and onions release their seeds as soon as they mature. Tie a small paper bag over the developing seed head to catch them as they fall. Wait until fleshy fruits, such as melons, tomatoes, rose hips, shrub berries, or tree fruit, are a little overripe to pick. Scrape the seeds from the flesh of the fruit, soak to remove any residue, and allow to dry completely. Some plants produce capsules or seed pods; snap them off, break open, and shake the seeds out over white paper.

The moisture content of stored seeds is critical to their viability. (Viability determines whether or not it will sprout.) Seeds must be kept as dry as possible. Spread clean seeds out on newspapers in a dry place for at least one week. Hang an incandescent lightbulb overhead to raise the temperature slightly and dry the surrounding air. Temperatures much over 100°F as well as any other factors causing the seeds to dry too quickly will damage them. Some seeds will dry just fine on the plant; poppy seeds and peas are good examples. An alternate method is to wrap the seeds in paper, and place in a jar with an equal weight of silica gel. Small seeds will dry in about ten days, while larger ones can take up to sixteen days. Test for dryness by bending the seeds. Those that snap back are not ready for storage, but those that break are ready.

Going to Seed

The first step in seed-saving is to let your plants produce the seed. Choose the very best example of each type of plant as the parent for the next generation. Look for good color, fine flavor, superior size, texture, or yield, and disease or insect resistance. In short, choose plants with unique qualities that set them apart from the rest. Never collect seed from diseased plants, because some diseases are seed-borne. Growing conditions during seed development affect the quality of seeds, so take good care of the expectant plants.

To set seed, the plant must be pollinated. Some plants, such as beans, lettuce, peas, and tomatoes are self-pollinating, which means the flowers on the plant produce and accept their own pollen. Others require pollen from a second plant, delivered either by the breeze or the bees. This can complicate seed-saving when related plants cross-pollinate, thereby affecting the seed crop.

In the garden, usually only plants of the same species can cross-pollinate. If you grow several varieties of a species, cover selected plants, or individual flowers, to prevent cross-pollination. For wind-pollinated crops, such as beets, chard, corn, and spinach, use muslin or spun-bonded polypropylene to keep away the tiny grains of pollen. For insect-pollinated crops, such as broccoli, carrots, or squash, cheesecloth will keep the bugs away from the flowers.

Once you cover plants that are normally pollinated by insects, you become responsible for their pollination. They can be hand-pollinated by gently stroking flowers with a fine artist's paintbrush.

The process becomes simpler if you grow only one variety of each plant, or if you don't mind the effects of crossing two cultivars.

Often a cross between two types, say of tomatoes or carrots, doesn't result in any tremendous surprises. But let two cultivars of the species Cucurbita pepopumpkins, zucchini, scallop, crooknecks, acorn squash, spaghetti squash, and some gourdsmingle, and you could find some real oddballs in next year's pumpkin patch.

Understanding Free Seeds

Compared to the overall cost of gardening, seed is really a bargain. But why pay for them when they are all around you for free? If you have plants, you have seeds. You should know, however, that seeds from hybrid plants don't produce plants just like their parents. Hybrids are the result of cross-fertilization between two or more species. Open-pollinated plants, on the other hand, are fertilized naturally"in the open"and are likely to produce offspring similar to the parent plant. If you plan to collect seed for future seasons' plantings, you will have better results if you choose seeds or plants that are labelled "open-pollinated" or ''OP" in a catalog or nursery.

The seed-saving process is simple and basically the same for all seed-bearing plants.

Annuals are the easiest plants from which to collect seed. Start with them if you are new to the practice. Many perennials are also easy to propagate from seed. Since biennials don't flower or set seed until their second year, they may require protection over the winter to stay alive long enough to yield seed.

Step 1: Let one or more plants of a chosen variety go to seed. First the plant must flower, then fruit, such as a tomato, pea-pod, rose-hip, apple, or seed head will form. Leave on the plant until it is past ripe or about to fall off.

Step 2: Pick fruit or seed head. Remove seeds.

Step 3: Dry seeds thoroughly before packaging in envelopes or airtight containers.

Step 4: Label and store seeds in a cool, dry place.

Step 5: When ready to use, test seeds for germination.

Step 6: Sow.

What to Look for in Used Gardening Tools?

Ask yourself some general questions when looking at a used machine. Does it appear to have been well-maintained? Is it reasonably clean? Ask the seller to check the oil, and other applicable fluids or lubrication points. This will show you if the machine is currently in good condition. Also if a seller is not familiar enough with the machine to do this for you, he probably didn't perform routine maintenance. Ask for a "test drive." Evaluate how easily it starts, how comfortable it is for you to use, and how efficient the machine is for the type of job you have at home. Ask where you can take the machine for servicing, if necessary. This applies for new or used equipment, since not all places that sell garden equipment service what they sell. For specific tools, new or used, look for the following characteristics.

Chipper/shredders. Consider maneuverability, balance, the clutch system, and ease of feeding material into it. You don't want to lift heavy materials or shovel loads over your head to use the machine. A grate to regulate the size of material as it comes out will eliminate running material through twice.

Rototillers. Rear-tine machines are generally the easiest for most people to operate. After test driving, does the machine leave a well-prepared, fluffy seed-bed?

Lawn mowers. Variable speed drive offers a choice of working conditions, which is valuable because grass and mowing conditions vary. Opt for a mulching type of lawn mower if possible. Not only are they the most efficient, but they also are the most environmentally responsible. If looking at self-propelled mowers, try to find one with at least a five-horsepower motor. For the difference in price, it will last a lot longer than a smaller engine. For machines with baggers, test the bag. Look for ease of handling, removing, and emptying when full. If your yard is fairly even and free of debris, consider a push-reel mower.

String Trimmers. Try one long enough to determine if it is comfortable for you to use. Is it well balanced or too heavy? Correctly match the machine to your job at home. For grass edging, a small, curve-shaft trimmer should suffice. A mid-size trimmer will be more effective for weeds, but clearing the back forty acres may require a heavy-duty, two-handled model.

Hedge Trimmers. Make sure the tool can be sharpened; many cannot. Consider how much it weighs. Is it too heavy for you to operate comfortably for extended periods of time?

Leaf Blowers. Air speed and the volume of air the machine moves are equally important. Check the consistency of the sweep. Does it move material equally well at the edges and the center? If the machine has a vacuum attachment make sure material is not forced back through the fan blades.

What to Ask about Used Equipment

The gamble of buying used equipment is you may just be getting someone else's headache. Without being too intrusive, you may want to approach this by asking if the seller still plans to garden. If so, then either the equipment no longer suits his purposes, or the gardener's sick of it!

Get as much information as possible from the seller about a piece of equipment you're considering buying. Following are some good questions to ask.

1. What is the make, model, and year of the machine? A used machine may have a warranty in effect.
2. What was the maintenance schedule?
3. Has the machine been adjusted or repaired?
4. Where can you take the machine for service when needed?
5. Why is the equipment for sale? (You may even get an honest answer.)

After you have gleaned as much information as possible from the seller, call a local dealer. Grill the dealer for information, especially on potential problems of that particular machine. Ask about specific things to look for in a used model.

Buying New or Used Gardening Tools

If you have a Sunday newspaper handy, check the classified ads for used gardening equipment. From chippers to string trimmers, used equipment is a respectable market. Also look at yard sales and estate sales for used equipment.

When should you consider buying used equipment? The answer is if you are in the market for an item, and you find that the same investment will buy a better quality used machine than a new one. This is not all that unusual. Ask why the equipment is for sale. Two common reasons are the owner has either given up on gardening, or has purchased a more advanced model of machinery. Neither means there is anything necessarily wrong with the machine for sale.

NEW
Advantages
Warranty.
Broad choice of machines and
options.
No wear on working parts.
Clean and shiny. Looks great.
Service available when needed.

Disadvantages
Expensive.


USED
Advantage
Cheaper.

Disadvantages
No warranty.
May be worn out.
May need repairs.
Will have to find someone to
service it.