What to Look for in Used Gardening Tools?

Ask yourself some general questions when looking at a used machine. Does it appear to have been well-maintained? Is it reasonably clean? Ask the seller to check the oil, and other applicable fluids or lubrication points. This will show you if the machine is currently in good condition. Also if a seller is not familiar enough with the machine to do this for you, he probably didn't perform routine maintenance. Ask for a "test drive." Evaluate how easily it starts, how comfortable it is for you to use, and how efficient the machine is for the type of job you have at home. Ask where you can take the machine for servicing, if necessary. This applies for new or used equipment, since not all places that sell garden equipment service what they sell. For specific tools, new or used, look for the following characteristics.

Chipper/shredders. Consider maneuverability, balance, the clutch system, and ease of feeding material into it. You don't want to lift heavy materials or shovel loads over your head to use the machine. A grate to regulate the size of material as it comes out will eliminate running material through twice.

Rototillers. Rear-tine machines are generally the easiest for most people to operate. After test driving, does the machine leave a well-prepared, fluffy seed-bed?

Lawn mowers. Variable speed drive offers a choice of working conditions, which is valuable because grass and mowing conditions vary. Opt for a mulching type of lawn mower if possible. Not only are they the most efficient, but they also are the most environmentally responsible. If looking at self-propelled mowers, try to find one with at least a five-horsepower motor. For the difference in price, it will last a lot longer than a smaller engine. For machines with baggers, test the bag. Look for ease of handling, removing, and emptying when full. If your yard is fairly even and free of debris, consider a push-reel mower.

String Trimmers. Try one long enough to determine if it is comfortable for you to use. Is it well balanced or too heavy? Correctly match the machine to your job at home. For grass edging, a small, curve-shaft trimmer should suffice. A mid-size trimmer will be more effective for weeds, but clearing the back forty acres may require a heavy-duty, two-handled model.

Hedge Trimmers. Make sure the tool can be sharpened; many cannot. Consider how much it weighs. Is it too heavy for you to operate comfortably for extended periods of time?

Leaf Blowers. Air speed and the volume of air the machine moves are equally important. Check the consistency of the sweep. Does it move material equally well at the edges and the center? If the machine has a vacuum attachment make sure material is not forced back through the fan blades.

What to Ask about Used Equipment

The gamble of buying used equipment is you may just be getting someone else's headache. Without being too intrusive, you may want to approach this by asking if the seller still plans to garden. If so, then either the equipment no longer suits his purposes, or the gardener's sick of it!

Get as much information as possible from the seller about a piece of equipment you're considering buying. Following are some good questions to ask.

1. What is the make, model, and year of the machine? A used machine may have a warranty in effect.
2. What was the maintenance schedule?
3. Has the machine been adjusted or repaired?
4. Where can you take the machine for service when needed?
5. Why is the equipment for sale? (You may even get an honest answer.)

After you have gleaned as much information as possible from the seller, call a local dealer. Grill the dealer for information, especially on potential problems of that particular machine. Ask about specific things to look for in a used model.

Buying New or Used Gardening Tools

If you have a Sunday newspaper handy, check the classified ads for used gardening equipment. From chippers to string trimmers, used equipment is a respectable market. Also look at yard sales and estate sales for used equipment.

When should you consider buying used equipment? The answer is if you are in the market for an item, and you find that the same investment will buy a better quality used machine than a new one. This is not all that unusual. Ask why the equipment is for sale. Two common reasons are the owner has either given up on gardening, or has purchased a more advanced model of machinery. Neither means there is anything necessarily wrong with the machine for sale.

NEW
Advantages
Warranty.
Broad choice of machines and
options.
No wear on working parts.
Clean and shiny. Looks great.
Service available when needed.

Disadvantages
Expensive.


USED
Advantage
Cheaper.

Disadvantages
No warranty.
May be worn out.
May need repairs.
Will have to find someone to
service it.

To Buy or Not to Buy

I had always wanted the biggest rototiller I could get. I still don't have it, and now you couldn't give me one. I did, however, buy myself a chipper/shredder for Mother's Day one year. What makes gardener's spring for these big-ticket items? What are the alternatives to buying?

For me the rototiller became a non-necessity when I changed gardening styles. By forming raised beds, I eliminated the need for a tiller,

the soil stays soft, and is easy to turn with a spade in the spring. In fact, a tiller would make more work by tearing up the beds. But the shredder was different. Lots of barnyard critters, weeds, and pine cones add up to lots of waste that requires managing on a regular basis. The shredder makes quick work of turning mountains into molehills.

When considering adding tools to your gardening ensemble, take a hard look at how often you will use a new piece of equipment. If, like that heavy-duty rototiller, it will only see action a couple of times a year, think about renting one only when you need it. It is less convenient to pick it up, lug it home, and return it after use. But think about the perks. There are no maintenance costs, no storage, no parting with the purchase price, and you still save money. For example, a tiller, with a five-year warranty, sells for around $800. A similar machine rents for $40 an hour. You can rent that machine once a year for twenty years, or twice a year for ten years, before you spend the amount it would cost to buy it. Other "occasional-use" equipment you might consider renting include the chipper/shredder, hedge trimmers, and leaf blower.

Neighborly cooperation can go a long way to saving money as well. Get a nearby gardening friend or two to share your rental. Most rental companies charge just as much for the half-hour it takes to drive the machine home as they do for the time it is in use. By splitting the expense with others, you cut down on wasted rental time.

A Fix for Hoses

My hoses seem to get shorter every year. That's because rather than throw them away after accidentally smashing the couplings or cutting them in half, I repair them.

There are two types of repair kits available at garden centers. They differ in how to secure the coupling. One type uses prongs that clamp down around the end of the hose, and the other applies a band at the hose end.

First cut away the damaged coupling or shredded section of hose. Soak the hose end in hot water for a few minutes to soften. If using a band repair kit, slide the band over the hose, and insert the fitting. Tighten the band as close to the coupling as possible. To repair with a prong-type kit, insert the fitting, and clamp the prongs down as tightly as possible with a pair of pliers.

Extend the Life of Wooden Tools

You can extend the life of any wooden handle the day you buy it. Use fine sandpaper to remove the finish. With your bare hands or a soft rag, generously rub the handle with boiled linseed oil. The warmth from your hands will help work in the oil, or leave a rag-oiled handle in the sun to warm the oil into the wood. Tung oil or vegetable oils such as olive or safflower oils also make good preservatives. The result is a smooth, water-resistant finish. Replenish with another rub whenever the wood begins to lose its satin feel.
Replace cracked shovel or fork handles. Digging puts a lot of stress on these tools, and having one give out at the wrong moment can be dangerous. Repair splits in hoe or rake handles by prying them open, filling with wood glue or epoxy, clamping till dry, and sanding smooth. It's usually quicker just to replace the handle. Don't ever try to get by with wrapping tape around a cracked handle. It is cheap, but it only hides a potentially worsening problem.

Handles come in different styles, but the method of replacement is about the same. Begin by removing the old handle. There is usually a screw or rivet holding the handle in place. Take the screw or rivet out of the tool socket carefully, without altering the socket shape. You may have to bang the old handle out with a chunk of pipe.

Install the new handle by securing the tool head, spade or fork, in a vise and pushing the handle into the socket. Soak the handle in hot water or coat the socket with a little oil or soap to help the handle slide in easily, especially with curved sockets. Tap the handle as far as it will go. Prevent the new handle from ever flying free by drilling a hole and inserting a nut and bolt through the metal socket into the handle.

Hoes, Spades, Shovels, Forks, Rakes, and Edgers

Keep a bucket of oily sand nearby for keeping tools clean and rust-free. Two things this type of tool deserves are a place to call home and a bucket of oily sand. Mix a bottle of vegetable oil in with clean construetion sand. After each use, hose off dirt and plunge the tool into the bucket with the sand and oil. The sand scours the metal, and the oil coats it preventing rust. Then hang up the tool in its proper spot. If the handles are wood, coat them with varnish, or rub with linseed or tung oil to preserve.

Hoes, spades, shovels, and edgers perform better if the edge is sharp. File tools to a sharp edge at least once a year.

The first rule is never misuse these cutting tools. They are meant to cut stems not wire. One wrong cut can ruin a good blade. Use soap and water to wash away sap or pitch; you may need a bit of turpentine or hand-cleaner for spots that are hard to remove. Scrub tool with steel wool to remove rust. Keep the moving parts lubricated with WD-40 or sewing machine oil. Check nuts and bolts periodically to make sure they are tight. Sharpen if cutting becomes difficult.

Understanding Planting Aids

From starting seeds to maintaining full-grown plants, there is equipment for every step of the way. Almost anything you can buy for those jobs has a free or cheap substitute.

Seed-starting pots are available in plastic or peat. There is no reason to pay for either. Save pots and flats whenever you purchase plants and reuse them. If you purchase less plastic, then you will not have to pay to throw it away.

Soil thermometers can help you decide when to seed temperature-sensitive plants. However, with practice, and perhaps a little trial and error, you'll soon develop a ''feel" for soil temperature that's just as dependable. Just touching the soil will tell you if it's warm enough to plant.

Dibbles make holes in soil for placing seeds. A stick, pencil, or finger performs the same.

Labels are useful for remembering what you planted. Make your own by cutting waxed milk cartons into strips and writing on the plain side with a permanent market. Or push a stick through the seed packet and into the soil.

Plant ties and supports hold plants in place as they grow. Instead of using ties from the garden center, substitute cloth strips, plastic garbage bag ties, twine, or twist-ties, and your plants will never know the difference. Wire tomato cages are too small to support most mature tomato plants. They are great, though, as supports for many types of flowering plants. Use a pair of wire cutters to snip the cage just above the first horizontal wire for two small flower supports. For tomatoes and other vining crops, welded wire fencing, hopefully salvaged, makes a good support. Twine is great for many garden jobs, and it is often free from anyone who feeds baled hay to livestock. Metal fence posts are available in various lengths, are reasonably priced, will last forever, and will support the weight of any crop.

Plant protectors from waxed paper hot caps to entire greenhouses, can really extend the life of plants.

Comforts and Conveniences in gardening

Some items just make gardening easier, and for that reason they may be worth the cost, but there are cheap substitutes you can use for quite a few of them.

Garden gloves protect your hands. Heavier material provides more protection. Cheap cloth gloves keep your hands clean. Heavy-duty leather gloves protect against thorns during pruning or brush-cutting, and guard against blisters after hours of hoeing or spading.

Knee pads or kneelers are valuable for anyone whose knees or back aches after weeding or performing other ground-work. Knee pads allow more free movement than a kneeler that must be picked up and moved every few minutes as you move.

Handle grips are rubber tubes that fit over tool handles, such as hoes, rakes, and spades. They reduce wear on both handles and hands. For a cheap substitute wrap handles with foam pipe insulation, and attach the foam neatly with electrical tape.

Wheelbarrows haul soil, garden waste, and other loads from one place to another. The bed, constructed of metal, plastic, or wood, attaches to one or two wheels, depending on the design. For large or heavy loads, the two-wheeled version is the easiest to use. Metal won't crack like plastic, but it will rust.

Understanding Watering equipment

Watering equipment can be costly, but it may save you in the long run by lowering your water bills or pumping costs. Water containers are for carrying and dispensing water. Stores sell all kinds of expensive watering cans, but you can make cheap imitations. Plastic milk or water jugs are ideal. Punch holes in the bottom, put on the cap, and carry upside-down. Turn them over, and remove the cap to sprinkle water.

Garden hoses carry water from a faucet to its final destination. They vary in length and can be screwed together to cover long distances. Water pressure from the source forces water through the hose to the end. Rubber and vinyl hoses are the most common, and are available in 1/2-inch, 5/8-inch, 3/4-inch, and 1-inch diameters. Rubber lasts the longest and is least prone to kinking and splitting. For most uses a 5/8-inch size is the best buy. Look for hoses with a lifetime guarantee. Hoses go on sale in spring and fall.

Lawn sprinklers attach to a hose and spray water up and out. They are a tremendous improvement over hand watering for the time they save. Water pressure propels the spray in one of several patterns, with some types covering a larger area than others. The cheapest sprinklers cost between $5 and $8 and are small heads with holes punched in them. They rest on the ground and shoot water up over a limited area. These work all right for lawns, but in a border or vegetable garden the spray may be blocked by foliage. Rotating and pulse-jet sprinklers have moving parts that deliver an even spray. Impulse-jet types are the most versatile, because you can adjust them to water a range of patterns, including a full circle. Oscillating sprinklers have a rocking bar that sprays water. They are not the best for vegetable plots, flower borders, or landscaping plants, because so much water lands on foliage instead of near the roots. If you must use a sprinkler in these spots, elevate it with a step-ladder or other substitute so the spray lands unobstructed. Look for sales in spring and fall.
Drip irrigation systems deliver water through emitters to individual plants. They are great for putting just the right amount of water where needed, but can be costly to install.

Soaker hoses and porous hoses deliver water along their length either through a series of holes, the soaker hose, or through the porous skin. Use some soaker hoses to water lawns as the holes are large enough to send water spraying upward. Turn them over so the water sprays downward to water vegetables or flowers. These hoses conserve water by putting it only where desired by the gardener. Place one along each garden row, or wind through flower beds and landscaping, to save time moving them around. Attach a garden hose when ready to water. Though a soaker hose is a bigger initial expense than a garden hose or cheap sprinkler, the savings on water can pay for the hoses in a couple of seasons. They also will last indefinitely.

Timers shut the water off at a pre-determined time. Cheap ones simply turn it off after a preset time period, while you can program expensive computer models with a complete watering regime. Both models prevent waste from overwatering, but the less expensive mechanical type is simpler to use and should be sufficient for almost anyone.

Water gauges measure how much water lands at a given spot. Save money by placing an empty jar or can in areas you want to measure.

Gas- and Electric-Powered Tools for Your Garden

Most power tools constitute a hefty initial investment, which must be worked off over a period of time. They also represent a monetary commitment to run; they require fuel or electricity, maintenance, and, occasionally, repairs. The trade-off is they save time and effort.

Chipper/shredders reduce garden waste by three-quarters or more. They can be a real boon if you are clearing brush, especially if you cannot burn. Chippers and shredders chop branches, twigs, and leaves into a homogenous mix which can be used as mulch. Shredders also can speed up the process of composting. Since the heavy-duty branch-eaters also make short work of leaves, they are the most versatile. Gas-powered models are the fastest and noisiest. Both types can be dangerous. Rototillers cultivate soil. Models range from 1 horsepower, lightweight tiller / cultivators, designed mainly for mechanized weeding, to 14 horsepower tillers, made for breaking new ground. Sharp digging tines rotate and cultivate the soil to depths varying from 4 to 8 inches. Considering that most plant roots penetrate at least 1 foot deep, a rototiller alone cannot prepare the soil deeply enough to accommodate them. The digging tines may be mounted in the front or rear of the machine. Except for the most powerful models, those designed with rear-mounted tines can be difficult to control at tilling depths greater than 3 inches. Rototillers can be dangerous; never buy one without a deadman control. This safety feature stops the machine and the turning tines when engaged. Lawn mowers cut grass. It's that simple. You may push, follow a self-propelled mower, or ride in style, but you are still simply cutting grass. The only real difference in cutting grass is how much you sweat, and whether the clippings are dropped, bagged, or mulched. Mulching mowers grind the clippings into tiny pieces that work their way back to the soil level. The tiny clippings provide beneficial mulch and eliminate waste. Self-propelled mowers generally cost at least $100 more than similar push-powered models, and the self-propelled models are twice as likely to need repairs. If your yard is small and level, you can get by with the less expensive push mower. If you have hills or a lot of ground to cover the self-propelled model may be better for you.

Some lawn-mower models have a blade-brake-clutch safety system which allows you to disengage the blade action without shutting down the engine. This is a real plus for moving the machine around when it's not actually cutting, say from the garage to the yard. Another helpful feature is a rear-bagging model, as opposed to a side-bagging one; they tend to be more maneuverable. Rear-wheel-drive machines, not front-wheel-drive models, have better traction. If you have physical limitations or a huge lot, a riding mower or lawn tractor may be necessary. Lawn tractors cost more but have the advantage of various accessories from garden carts to snow blades. They are also slightly less prone to repair jobs than riding mowers. Most lawn tractors can't rival the carpetlike evenness walk-behind mowers leave, and expect to spend more money. Don't even consider a lawn tractor without a deadman control in the seat. With the control, as soon as the driver leaves the seat, the engine stops. Tip: Lawn mowers go on sale after the Fourth of July.

String trimmers cut unruly herbaceous growth from weeds to overgrown grass. There are gas- and electric-powered models, but unless you have enough weeds to warrant the gas type, a good pair of garden shears will work instead. Some trimmers can also edge lawns; turn them so the string spins vertically.

Hedge trimmers are for yards with lots of big hedges. Gas-powered models are easy to use, cordless, and have little vibration. But they are loud and expensive. Electric trimmers are cheaper and more lightweight. Those with reciprocating blades, two blades cutting against each other are the most efficient. For most uses, a 16-inch blade is sufficient.

Leaf blowers move leaves. In a large area, a blower will save effort and time over a rake. There are hand-carried, back-pack, and push types, some with attachments. They are loud and expensive, and they take all the fun out of raking leaves.

Understanding Gardening Tools

These are the fundamental tools necessary for gardening. They do not contribute to air or noise pollution, cost virtually nothing to operate, and require little cleaning and maintenance. Yet with a little people-power, these tools perform any task in the garden.

Cultivating tools primarily move around soil. They have a metal head and wooden, metal, or plastic handle. Look for carbon steel or stainless steel heads. If kept clean and dry between uses, carbon steel should not rust. Stainless steel is more expensive, but is rust-proof and makes work easier as soil falls away from it. Coatings on blades can wear off over time, making them a questionable expenditure. Wooden handles, such as hickory, are generally strong, and unlike metal or plastic, can be replaced if broken. Buy a handle that is of a comfortable length for you to use.

Forks loosen soil, cultivate, move bulky materials, such as weed piles and manure, and they lift root crops. In short, forks are versatile. Most forks have four, sturdy, metal prongs attached to a wooden or metal shaft. The best quality forks are those with the prongs and neck forged from a single piece of metal. Avoid forks pieced together or welded. Short-handled hand forks lift up plants and work well for knee-level weeding.

Hoes cultivate, weed, and form seed rows. They may have long or short handles with a blade attached. There are several types of hoes with specific uses. A Dutch hoe or scuffle hoe works well to remove small, surface weeds around plants. A combination hoe has prongs on one side for breaking up soil and a blade on the other for chopping or moving around soil. A triangular hoe creates V-shaped furrows. Hand hoes have short handles and small, narrow blades for cultivating between closely spaced plants.

Rakes create an even and level soil surface as well as rake debris. A forged metal, toothed head, attached to a wooden or metal handle, pulls material. Those with the most teeth work the fastest, because they cover more ground each time you rake. Flathead rakes last longer than bow-head types. Lawn rakes compared to cultivating rakes, are lightweight, and have flexible tines designed to move light debris such as leaves or mown grass.

Spades and shovels dig and turn soil. Splurge on a stainless steel one if you can, as it takes a lot of strain out of digging. A rounded spade turns over soil, while a pointed shovel digs into the ground as well.

Trowels are mini-shovels, great for digging small transplanting holes. They are especially handy for working in containers.

Other cultivating tools include pronged and tooth-wheeled models. The prongs or teeth break up the soil, but work well only after the soil has already been cultivated, and only to a shallow depth.

Pruning tools cut woody growth. Pruning is necessary to keep many plants in their prime . Short- or long-handled pruners, saws, and knives are examples of hand-held pruning tools.
Pruners work like scissors to snip branches. Buy pruners that give a clean, crisp cut. Ragged edges can leave plants open to infection. Get the best-quality stainless- or carbon-steel blade you can afford. Bypass pruners are the most versatile. Anvil pruners, unless kept very sharp, crush stems. Coated grips are worth the expense; they are more comfortable to use than bare steel.

Loppers are long-handled pruners used to cut branches in hard-to-reach places. The leverage created by the long handles makes cutting small branches a snap, and the shears can handle limbs 2 inches thick or more.

Tree pruners cut high branches. They work on a lever system, and some models can extend your reach up to 15 feet high. For most jobs though, a ladder and loppers will suffice.

Saws prune heavy branches. Of the several types available, a Grecian saw is one of the most versatile. It has a curved handle and teeth designed to cut only as you pull towards youself, making it easier to use in tight spaces. Bow saws work quickly, but are unwieldy to use in close quarters.

Knives have many uses in the garden. Use them for pruning, taking cuttings, grafting, and harvesting. A good pocket knife with a sharp, carbon-steel blade is a fine investment.

Shears can trim hedges, snip grass, cut back perennials, or create topiary masterpieces. Look for those with straight, sharp blades on sturdy wooden handles.

Lawn-care tools control where and how your grass grows.

Edgers make a clean cut at the border where grass meets another ground cover, such as pavement or planting beds. A sharp, half-moon-shaped head slices away sod. A sharp spade or garden knife does the same job.

Hand-held weeders such as ball weeders or a notched asparagus knife are useful for popping weeds out of the lawn without tearing up the turf.

Push-reel mowers may be a relic whose time has returned. Rotating blades cut grass evenly and provide a workout at the same time. Compared to motorized models, they are cheap to purchase, and they don't have any operating costs, except for occasionally sharpening the blades. Push-reel mowers also don't emit pollutants from burning fuel.

Spreaders apply fertilizer to lawns. There is a shoulder-carried version in which you turn a crank to spin granules out onto the lawn. But the more useful option is a hopper on wheels that you push. Most let you adjust the rate of application to your needs.

Save water through Planning

Most of us have more water than we know what to do with. Even in and regions there are occasional deluges of rain. Rainbarrels are not a new idea, but still a useful one. Position clean, empty barrels beneath downspouts or up on blocks around the garden. Barrels, positioned a few inches above the ground, can incorporate spigots and drip tubing for a cheap, gravity-flow irrigation system. A barrel positioned high above the ground creates strong water pressure, and far-flowing water. This time-honored method is excellent for flower or vegetable gardens.

Lawns are water hogs. They also consume their share of fertilizer, mowing time, and expense. Compared to native landscaping or a xeriscaped yard they are a ludicrous luxury. (Xeriscaping is the landscaping art of combining drought-tolerant plants, garden design, and water-conserving tactics to create a low-maintenance landscape.)

Consider reducing water and other bills by creating a smaller lawn. You may even find that by enlisting the services of a paid professional landscaper, you could save buckets of money. Or try gradually replacing some of the grass with less thirsty landscape plants.

Be aware of which plants require the most water. Group them together so you don't waste water on plants that don't need it. Plants such as rhododendrons, azaleas, and ferns need more water than cacti. Also, if your yard has a naturally moist microclimate, put the water hogs there, not on the driest point of the property. Consider landscape points of interest that doesn't require water, such as a dry creek-bed of rock. Make it appear wet by varnishing the rocks. Position sprinklers to avoid watering sidewalks, streets, decks, and other structures; they won't grow.

Water Sprinkler Timers

If you have a good idea how much watering your plants need but don’t want to or can’t be there, the water timer’s for you. Though no bigger than a coffee can, some of these gadgets contain a small computer that you can program for watering time and duration. Others have a clever intermittent feature that delivers the water in on-off cycles (for instance, five minutes on followed by a ten-minute rest) over a period of time (say, three hours) before shutting off automatically. This allows the soil to efficiently absorb the water with far less runoff and evaporation.

The fancy battery-operated types with all the settings are handy if you need all these features, but if you’re after simplicity and dependability, you can’t beat the spring-operated ones. One end of the timer attaches to the faucet, the other to the hose end — you have no batteries, no wires to worry about. Some timers are more elaborate (and expensive) than others, so have a clear idea of your needs as well as your technological savvy when you go shopping. You can find water timers wherever gardening supplies are sold, as well as at specialty greenhouse supply companies.
Water timers are most often used with professional installed sprinkler systems

What is Hose-end sprinklers?

Here’s another way to put your good hose to work: A hose-end sprinkler is designed to screw into a standard hose and rest on the ground wherever you drag it and set it down; it then delivers water in a spray pattern in the immediate area. Clever designers have come up with all sorts of nifty alternatives, so you should have no trouble finding a sprinkler you like and that suits the lay of your particular landscape. Here’s a rundown of the common ones:

• Fixed-spray sprinkler: These sprinklers are the simplest types and are perfectly satisfactory for watering small areas. They deliver a fine, soft rain, rather casually (that is, without a super-reliable pattern). Use them on the lawn or for watering flowerbeds and shrubs; they’re less effective under trees because they fling water up into the branches, where it’s neither needed nor especially appreciated. You may have to run the water on low or get a heavier model if it tends to flip over on its side or upside down, a common problem.
• Whirlybird sprinkler: A spring-loaded arm breaks the shooting stream of water into droplets as it snaps back into place, which makes this sprinkler revolve. This deceptively simple design can actually accomplish a very thorough watering job in a circular shape.
  
• Rain tower: The rain tower is just an impulse sprinkler like the whirlybird, but it’s elevated on an adjustable tripod contraption so it can water a broad circle. Therefore, it’s terrific for watering large areas of tall plants, such as a corn patch or vegetable garden.
• Oscillating sprinkler: You have to set or assign these sprinklers their job, which can be a full-yard swing from left to right and back again, or a half-swing to the left or right, or just a held, stationary position. Oscillating sprinklers are marvelous for watering lawns and broad plantings. Splurge on the more expensive units; they last much longer and offer a greater range of settings that can make your watering more accurate and efficient. Compared to a whirlybird sprinkler, oscillating sprinklers tend to lose a lot of water to evaporation.
• Tractor (traveling) sprinkler: The tractor sprinkler is a little more hightech, at least for a homeowner. The small water-driven tractor scoots slowly across a lawn, using the laid-out hose as a guide. Meanwhile, a simple revolving sprinkler mounted on top does the watering. Some models have three speeds, for lighter to deeper watering.

Understanding Garden Nozzles

An awful lot of hose accessories are out there. Rarely are they expensive, so you can give one a try and see how you, and your plants, like it. Here are some of the common ones; they all screw onto the end of a standard hose:

• Watering wand: This gadget extends your reach for watering hanging baskets or irrigating the back of a deep flowerbed. The rose, or head, at the end of the wand delivers the water in a gentle, drenching spray. The watering wand is also nice for watering potted plants and seedlings if you keep the water pressure low so you don’t dislodge the little plants. Get a wand with a thumb-operated on-off valve so you can move from plant to plant without wetting things you don’t mean to or wasting water.
• Jet-spray nozzle: Usually brass, this tool focuses water into a strong, stiff spray. It’s ideal for hosing off muddy tools and boots or cleaning a walkway or driveway.
• Adjustable round nozzle: A refinement of the jet-spray nozzle, this nozzle can also deliver a softer spray right on down to a mist — all by twisting it until the water is coming out the way you want.
• Misting head: Though small, this tool can be a bit pricier because it usually comes in brass or brass-coated die-cast metal. It delivers water in a fine mist, nice for little emerging seedlings.
• Pistol-grip nozzle: Usually made of tough, UV-resistant plastic, this nozzle is a favorite among gardeners because you can vary the intensity of the spray by applying pressure to the trigger and thus use it throughout your garden.
• Fan head: This tool delivers a drenching sweep of water from its broad, broom-head-like end, making it a good choice for bigger watering projects like irrigating a newly planted shrub or rosebush.
• Multiple-head nozzle: These nozzles are showing up more frequently on the market. They have several types of nozzles built into one head and are quite handy.

Repairing a hose

Hoses seem to undergo more abuse than just about any other type of gardening tool, and chances are that sooner or later you’re going to find yourself owning a hose with some end or thread damage. When this happens, determine whether repairing the hose end is worth the trouble. If the hose wasn’t cheap and the damage is minor, by all means, give it a try.
For hoses that develop leaks, patch kits are available wherever hoses are sold. Always patch only when the hose is completely dry.

Hose storage and placement accessories

Coils and hose caddies are nice accessories to have. You see, a hose comes coiled and stores well coiled in its original direction and loop size — in other words, a hose has coil memory. Letting the hose return to this state when not in use is better for the hose’s longevity.
A hose guide is a simple but worthwhile gadget. A stake anchors the guide in the ground or in pre-drilled holes in your patio or pathway, and it holds the hose in place, even along curves or around corners. In this way, the hose can’t stray onto a path or across your garden plants.

Garden Hose Sizes

The most common hose size is 5⁄8 of an inch in diameter, which works very well with typical municipal water pressure (30 to 50 pounds per square inch). You may have cause to go down to 1⁄2 inch or up to 1 inch — the skinnier one delivers water more slowly; the fatter one, more quickly. Length depends on how far you have to reach the hose. For flexibility, you may want to buy your hose in 25-foot segments rather than longer lengths and just join them together as needed for different areas of the garden. Also, shorter lengths are lighter and thus easier to lug around.

Hose materials and construction

The best, most long-lived hose is one that’s composed of layers. The inner layer needs to be flexible, a nice smooth rubber or synthetic tube. To protect it and give it toughness, it’s covered or coated with at least one outer layer of nylon fabric or mesh. The outer skin beyond that, the part you touch and see, needs to be of a material that doesn’t break down after prolonged exposure to sun and weather. It also needs to resist punctures and scratches. Usually, the outer layer is vinyl, or a vinyl-rubber blend, and it’s often green or black. Multi-layered hoses may seem a bit fatter or heavier than the inexpensive alternatives, but as usual, you get what you pay for. The standard, vinyl-coated, layered hose comes in different forms: namely three-ply, four-ply, and five-ply. As with anything, heavier duty versions, like the five-ply, are more expensive. Heavier duty hoses don’t kink as often, can take higher water pressures, and last longer. For occasional watering jobs, the lower ply will work fine; for more frequent use and longer life, go with the higher ply.
Other types of hoses include

• The soaker or leaky hose: This hose “sweats” water slowly out along its entire length via tiny holes.
• The flat hose: Made of cotton canvas, the flat hose is lightweight and compact.
• The patio hose: The end of the patio hose is designed to attach to a sink faucet.

One more thing to look for when hose-shopping: The fittings at the ends should also be of good quality. Their job is to attach seamlessly to a faucet (or sprinkler, if at the other end) without leaking or spraying. How do you judge quality? If they’re cast brass rather than cheap metal, they’re built to last. A stamped, galvanized steel fitting never seems to hold up over time.