Understanding Free Seeds

Compared to the overall cost of gardening, seed is really a bargain. But why pay for them when they are all around you for free? If you have plants, you have seeds. You should know, however, that seeds from hybrid plants don't produce plants just like their parents. Hybrids are the result of cross-fertilization between two or more species. Open-pollinated plants, on the other hand, are fertilized naturally"in the open"and are likely to produce offspring similar to the parent plant. If you plan to collect seed for future seasons' plantings, you will have better results if you choose seeds or plants that are labelled "open-pollinated" or ''OP" in a catalog or nursery.

The seed-saving process is simple and basically the same for all seed-bearing plants.

Annuals are the easiest plants from which to collect seed. Start with them if you are new to the practice. Many perennials are also easy to propagate from seed. Since biennials don't flower or set seed until their second year, they may require protection over the winter to stay alive long enough to yield seed.

Step 1: Let one or more plants of a chosen variety go to seed. First the plant must flower, then fruit, such as a tomato, pea-pod, rose-hip, apple, or seed head will form. Leave on the plant until it is past ripe or about to fall off.

Step 2: Pick fruit or seed head. Remove seeds.

Step 3: Dry seeds thoroughly before packaging in envelopes or airtight containers.

Step 4: Label and store seeds in a cool, dry place.

Step 5: When ready to use, test seeds for germination.

Step 6: Sow.

What to Look for in Used Gardening Tools?

Ask yourself some general questions when looking at a used machine. Does it appear to have been well-maintained? Is it reasonably clean? Ask the seller to check the oil, and other applicable fluids or lubrication points. This will show you if the machine is currently in good condition. Also if a seller is not familiar enough with the machine to do this for you, he probably didn't perform routine maintenance. Ask for a "test drive." Evaluate how easily it starts, how comfortable it is for you to use, and how efficient the machine is for the type of job you have at home. Ask where you can take the machine for servicing, if necessary. This applies for new or used equipment, since not all places that sell garden equipment service what they sell. For specific tools, new or used, look for the following characteristics.

Chipper/shredders. Consider maneuverability, balance, the clutch system, and ease of feeding material into it. You don't want to lift heavy materials or shovel loads over your head to use the machine. A grate to regulate the size of material as it comes out will eliminate running material through twice.

Rototillers. Rear-tine machines are generally the easiest for most people to operate. After test driving, does the machine leave a well-prepared, fluffy seed-bed?

Lawn mowers. Variable speed drive offers a choice of working conditions, which is valuable because grass and mowing conditions vary. Opt for a mulching type of lawn mower if possible. Not only are they the most efficient, but they also are the most environmentally responsible. If looking at self-propelled mowers, try to find one with at least a five-horsepower motor. For the difference in price, it will last a lot longer than a smaller engine. For machines with baggers, test the bag. Look for ease of handling, removing, and emptying when full. If your yard is fairly even and free of debris, consider a push-reel mower.

String Trimmers. Try one long enough to determine if it is comfortable for you to use. Is it well balanced or too heavy? Correctly match the machine to your job at home. For grass edging, a small, curve-shaft trimmer should suffice. A mid-size trimmer will be more effective for weeds, but clearing the back forty acres may require a heavy-duty, two-handled model.

Hedge Trimmers. Make sure the tool can be sharpened; many cannot. Consider how much it weighs. Is it too heavy for you to operate comfortably for extended periods of time?

Leaf Blowers. Air speed and the volume of air the machine moves are equally important. Check the consistency of the sweep. Does it move material equally well at the edges and the center? If the machine has a vacuum attachment make sure material is not forced back through the fan blades.

What to Ask about Used Equipment

The gamble of buying used equipment is you may just be getting someone else's headache. Without being too intrusive, you may want to approach this by asking if the seller still plans to garden. If so, then either the equipment no longer suits his purposes, or the gardener's sick of it!

Get as much information as possible from the seller about a piece of equipment you're considering buying. Following are some good questions to ask.

1. What is the make, model, and year of the machine? A used machine may have a warranty in effect.
2. What was the maintenance schedule?
3. Has the machine been adjusted or repaired?
4. Where can you take the machine for service when needed?
5. Why is the equipment for sale? (You may even get an honest answer.)

After you have gleaned as much information as possible from the seller, call a local dealer. Grill the dealer for information, especially on potential problems of that particular machine. Ask about specific things to look for in a used model.

Buying New or Used Gardening Tools

If you have a Sunday newspaper handy, check the classified ads for used gardening equipment. From chippers to string trimmers, used equipment is a respectable market. Also look at yard sales and estate sales for used equipment.

When should you consider buying used equipment? The answer is if you are in the market for an item, and you find that the same investment will buy a better quality used machine than a new one. This is not all that unusual. Ask why the equipment is for sale. Two common reasons are the owner has either given up on gardening, or has purchased a more advanced model of machinery. Neither means there is anything necessarily wrong with the machine for sale.

NEW
Advantages
Warranty.
Broad choice of machines and
options.
No wear on working parts.
Clean and shiny. Looks great.
Service available when needed.

Disadvantages
Expensive.


USED
Advantage
Cheaper.

Disadvantages
No warranty.
May be worn out.
May need repairs.
Will have to find someone to
service it.

To Buy or Not to Buy

I had always wanted the biggest rototiller I could get. I still don't have it, and now you couldn't give me one. I did, however, buy myself a chipper/shredder for Mother's Day one year. What makes gardener's spring for these big-ticket items? What are the alternatives to buying?

For me the rototiller became a non-necessity when I changed gardening styles. By forming raised beds, I eliminated the need for a tiller,

the soil stays soft, and is easy to turn with a spade in the spring. In fact, a tiller would make more work by tearing up the beds. But the shredder was different. Lots of barnyard critters, weeds, and pine cones add up to lots of waste that requires managing on a regular basis. The shredder makes quick work of turning mountains into molehills.

When considering adding tools to your gardening ensemble, take a hard look at how often you will use a new piece of equipment. If, like that heavy-duty rototiller, it will only see action a couple of times a year, think about renting one only when you need it. It is less convenient to pick it up, lug it home, and return it after use. But think about the perks. There are no maintenance costs, no storage, no parting with the purchase price, and you still save money. For example, a tiller, with a five-year warranty, sells for around $800. A similar machine rents for $40 an hour. You can rent that machine once a year for twenty years, or twice a year for ten years, before you spend the amount it would cost to buy it. Other "occasional-use" equipment you might consider renting include the chipper/shredder, hedge trimmers, and leaf blower.

Neighborly cooperation can go a long way to saving money as well. Get a nearby gardening friend or two to share your rental. Most rental companies charge just as much for the half-hour it takes to drive the machine home as they do for the time it is in use. By splitting the expense with others, you cut down on wasted rental time.

A Fix for Hoses

My hoses seem to get shorter every year. That's because rather than throw them away after accidentally smashing the couplings or cutting them in half, I repair them.

There are two types of repair kits available at garden centers. They differ in how to secure the coupling. One type uses prongs that clamp down around the end of the hose, and the other applies a band at the hose end.

First cut away the damaged coupling or shredded section of hose. Soak the hose end in hot water for a few minutes to soften. If using a band repair kit, slide the band over the hose, and insert the fitting. Tighten the band as close to the coupling as possible. To repair with a prong-type kit, insert the fitting, and clamp the prongs down as tightly as possible with a pair of pliers.

Extend the Life of Wooden Tools

You can extend the life of any wooden handle the day you buy it. Use fine sandpaper to remove the finish. With your bare hands or a soft rag, generously rub the handle with boiled linseed oil. The warmth from your hands will help work in the oil, or leave a rag-oiled handle in the sun to warm the oil into the wood. Tung oil or vegetable oils such as olive or safflower oils also make good preservatives. The result is a smooth, water-resistant finish. Replenish with another rub whenever the wood begins to lose its satin feel.
Replace cracked shovel or fork handles. Digging puts a lot of stress on these tools, and having one give out at the wrong moment can be dangerous. Repair splits in hoe or rake handles by prying them open, filling with wood glue or epoxy, clamping till dry, and sanding smooth. It's usually quicker just to replace the handle. Don't ever try to get by with wrapping tape around a cracked handle. It is cheap, but it only hides a potentially worsening problem.

Handles come in different styles, but the method of replacement is about the same. Begin by removing the old handle. There is usually a screw or rivet holding the handle in place. Take the screw or rivet out of the tool socket carefully, without altering the socket shape. You may have to bang the old handle out with a chunk of pipe.

Install the new handle by securing the tool head, spade or fork, in a vise and pushing the handle into the socket. Soak the handle in hot water or coat the socket with a little oil or soap to help the handle slide in easily, especially with curved sockets. Tap the handle as far as it will go. Prevent the new handle from ever flying free by drilling a hole and inserting a nut and bolt through the metal socket into the handle.