Planting Bulbs, Corms, and Tubers

Not all plants start best from seed. Many, such as tulips, gladiolus, and dahlias, propagate best from underground storage organs (as discussed in Chapter 3). The methods for planting bulbs, corms, and tubers are similar to planting seed, except bulbs used for naturalizing or planted in grass. In these cases, don't prepare the soil in advance, instead use a handy bulb planter for forming holes.

For perennials, use a hand trowel to dig holes about three times deeper than the width of the bulb. This insulates the bulbs from extreme temperatures. Irises are one exception. Plant them with part of the rhizome above ground. Planting irises too deeply will kill them. Likewise, plant onions and garlic with the tops nearly exposed.

It is absolutely critical to place bulbs, corms, and other underground storage organs in the soil with the growing tip facing the sky. If you are not sure which end is the growing tip, check for roots. The growing tip is on the opposite end. Dahlias and other tuberous plants should have small growing shoots coming out of the tuber. Plant them so the tips of the shoots point up. Make sure you don't break or damage growing tips. Sprinkle a little bone meal in the hole before placing the bulb to help the roots develop. Place the bulb in the hole, fill with the soil removed from it, and press down gently.

Planting Seed at the Right Temperature

It is important to know the temperature tolerance of the seeds you plant. Cool-season plants will sprout and grow at 40°F. Due to the process of microbial breakdown, however, cold soil has few organic nutrients available to plants. But warm-season plants will rot at 40°F. Most plants germinate very well at temperatures between 60° and 70°F.

Saving Money on Seeds

When buying plants, seeds are much cheaper than transplants. Compare two extremes. Tetraploid pelargoniums cost $2.95 for a packet of only five seeds, nearly 60¢ for each plant. A transplant, however, costs around $3. Of course, you have to factor in the cost of growing the seed, but after doing that, even expensive seed is still a bargain. Then there are the seeds you buy on sale or wholesale, or those you save from your own plants. Outside of a few pennies for seed, soil, and water, the costs are negligible for a homegrown transplant.

Tucked away in its cozy little hiding place, protected by a tough seedcoat, a baby plant waits to make its grand entrance into the world. When conditions of light, temperature, and moisture are just right, which varies by the type of seed, the embryo bursts forth. It carries just enough nutrition in the seed for the incredible feat of breaking free and stretching upward. Afterwards, it makes its own food. Through the miraculous process of photosynthesis, plant cells convert light, air, water, and soil nutrients into sugars, starches, and proteins. Seeds may be direct seeded, which means planted directly into the garden where they will grow, or started in containers for later transplanting. Most plants are better suited to one method than the other.

Direct Seeding
This is the original plan for seed-bearing plants. They flower, set seed, and some seeds manage to get a foothold. Some types of garden seeds, especially those that develop extensive root systems, are best suited to direct seeding. Direct seeding begins with preparing a seed-bed. Begin by removing all weeds and cultivating the soil. Rent a rototiller or get a good workout turning the soil by hand. Rake the soil to remove any clumps, sticks, or rocks, and break the soil into fine particles. Water the area the day before planting so the soil is moist. You may want to treat the soil with an insecticide, such as diazinon (one of the less toxic of the chemical insecticides) or diatomaceous earth (an organic alternative), especially in soil freshly turned from sod. If soil-dwelling insects such as army-worms or cutworms get your plants before they emerge, you not only waste the money, time, and effort of planting, but you fall behind in the growing season. Space seed plantings to avoid wasting seeds and having to pull out healthy plants later.

You can broadcast seeds or plant them in rows. Spice dispensers, such as those for salt substitutes, make handy, free seed broadcasters. Those with smaller holes work for small-seeded crops, such as carrots; those with larger holes, are great for bigger seeds, such as marigolds. Fill the dispenser and gently scatter the seeds evenly over the prepared area. Scatter tiny seeds more evenly by mixing with fine sand for a carrying medium. To plant in rows, use a dibble, made from a stick or your finger, to poke a hole the appropriate depth into the soil, and drop a seed or two in each hole. Use either method for raised beds or wide rows.

I include broadcast seeding because many gardeners use it, but I don't. I think it wastes seed. It is faster than placing each individual seed where it belongs. Much of the time saved is imaginary, because thinning the thickly sprouted seeds takes time. Since it is more difficult for me to justify yanking out a perfectly healthy seedling than it is to space my plantings in the first place, I take the extra few minutes spacing seeds according to their size at maturity. Since I plant wide rows in raised beds, I space the seeds a certain distance apart from a center point. For example, carrot seeds are 3 inches apart on all sides and bean seeds are 4-inches apart.

Once planted, cover seeds lightly with fine soil. The standard rule of thumb is cover seeds with soil two or three times as deep as the seed's thickness. Gently press on soil over the seeds until dirt is firm. Remember to keep moist. Tender seedlings will die if allowed to dry out.

When starting vining plants, such as pole beans, scarlet runner beans, or sweet peas, plant a support along with them. Another prime candidate for direct seeding is a lawn. Till and amend the soil; most lawns benefit from tilling in peat moss or other organic matter. Rake until as even as possible, then compact with a roller, a large metal drum you rent and fill half-full with water for weight.

Seed evenly with a spreader by walking across the area first in one direction, then perpendicular to the first pattern, and finally at a diagonal. This pattern prevents bare spots.

The best germination depends on good seed, warm temperatures, and constant moisture. Until the grass is about 1 inch tall, water it every day. Spread a grass seed mulch over the seed to reduce water loss. You will save money substantially by planting your own lawn rather than laying sod or hiring someone else to install it either way.

Tips on Planting Many Types of Plants

Garden Vegetables
This may sound a little obvious, but grow what you like to eat. No matter how good a crop you turn out, it's a waste of time and money if no one eats it. The second important consideration for a cost-effective plot is to grow only those crops which are cheaper to grow than buy. Why toil over a bed of spuds when you can buy 10 pounds for $1.59? Actually, there are a couple of sound exceptions to this rule. If your heart's desire is for a vegetable variety unavailable at the grocery store, grow your own. If you worry about an organic diet, grow your own. But if cost is a factor, leave the cheap vegetables to the truck farmers.

Herbs
Herbs are among the most trouble-free plants to grow, rarely bothered by pests or diseases. This is an endearing quality to the gardener who likes to save time and money. Most are attractive plants that add beauty to the landscape and many are exquisitely fragrant. They fit in anywhere; interplant into a border or grow in containers, a windowbox, or a pot on a sunny kitchen windowsill.

Look at some of the wonderful ways you can save money through the benefit of homegrown herbs. Grow gourmet cooking herbs such as Italian parsley or cilantro, that are often difficult to find in grocery stores. Common culinary herbs such as dill, oregano, sage, and tarragon transcend into gourmet delights when homegrown and just-picked fresh. Moreover, all herbs seem to taste better when you know you didn't have to pay the high prices they bring at the market. Grow mints, chamomile, and lemon balm, among others, to create your own soothing teas at a fraction the cost of store-bought. You can also dry herbs to use and enjoy all through the year, or to give as gifts.

Small Fruits
Berries and other small fruits add a touch of sweetness to the summer garden. While expensive in the supermarket, most small fruits are easy to grow.

Annual and Perennial Flowers
We appreciate flowers for their marvelous colors, textures and aromas. Annuals provide color all season, while gardeners wait patiently for perennial favorites. By blending the two types, you can create a lasting portrait in living color.

Turf and Ground Covers
Choices in ground covers have expanded wildly in the last few years. From play turf to low-maintenance 'Blue Carpet' juniper, there is something for every lifestyle and every pocketbook. As nice as a lawn is, consider the time and expense that goes into maintaining it, and alternatives become all the more attractive. Many tolerate drought much better than a lawn, which saves you money on watering. And most add visual interest to the landscape that turf can't touch. Those listed tend to spread readily to cover the area, another valuable characteristic.

Climbers and Vines
Climbers and vines add interest to spaces that might otherwise go bare. Use them to create a privacy screen or to obstruct an unpleasant view. Quick growing annuals are handy for a nearly instant solution to such landscape problems, while perennials provide long-term cover. Growing and training vines is easy. Direct seed or transplant annuals where you want them to grow, and provide a trellis or other support structure at planting time. Plant perennial vines as you would other perennials. The method differs somewhat for container plants and bare root plants.

Landscape Shrubs
The main reason for landscape shrubs is to provide visual interest in the yard or garden. Those that stand out remain attractive even after their main growing season. Shrubs also provide a haven for birds.

Shade and Landscape Trees
Few things in life are more rewarding than trees. They provide shade, privacy, and good company. Recommended types on the next page are low-maintenance, and offer at least two seasons of interest.

The Value of a Plant's Character

What characteristics do you look for in the plants you choose? Do you prefer a particular size and shape, a certain flower color, or productivity in food plants? As mentioned before, only the plants that suit your taste as well as your site, belong in your garden. But once you have decided your preferences for the more obvious qualities, consider some characteristics that will really save you money in the long-run.

Disease Resistance
Two rose bushes are next to each other in a border garden. One is practically defoliated, with the remaining leaves covered in black blotches. The other has full leaves and boasts blooms to boot. What makes the difference? Some plants are just naturally more resistant to disease than others are, and we don't always know why. Perhaps the cuticle, the waxy coating, on the leaves of the healthy rose bush is thicker, less acidic, or tougher than that of the sick rose bush. Physical and chemical attributes account for much of the mystique of natural resistance. We may not know exactly whysome plants resist illness, but we know disease resistance exists. Unfortunately, resistance often varies with climate or locale. Still, resistant varieties help you save money fighting plant diseases or replacing lost plants. Look for varieties that are resistant to diseases that are particularly prevalent in your area. Don't assume that just because you bought certified disease-free plants or resistant varieties, your plants will never get sick. The rest is up to you. Just as you can keep susceptible plants healthy with proper care, disease-resistant plants can get sick if not maintained properly.

Drought Resistance
Plants that evolved in arid places had to adapt in order to survive. Thin leaves, a glossy coating, fuzzy stems, or fleshy plant parts all help prevent water loss. Cacti are the classic example of drought resistance. But other plants also tolerate a lack of water. Remember that newly transplanted specimens usually will need to be kept moist until they adapt to their new surroundings.

Cold Hardiness
Frost damage can affect plants in many ways. Spring frosts may kill flowering buds, ruining a flowering or fruiting season, but causing little or no permanent damage. Severe winter cold may split branches or stems, which can kill the plant.
Gardeners who live in cold climate areas, including high elevations or northern latitudes, learn quickly to rely on short-season, late-blooming, and cold-hardy plants. If you garden in such an area, look for these designations when choosing varieties. Plants that evolved in cold climates developed some clever tricks for foiling frost. Short-season varieties take less time to flower or fruit than others of their type. They don't really tolerate cold, they avoid it. Late bloomers don't break bud in the spring until after hard frosts, hopefully. And cold-hardy perennials, shrubs, and trees have a unique method of surviving winter's chill, called super-cooling.
Cool temperatures alone don't cause winter damage. Dehydrating winds, bright sun, and temperature fluctuations all contribute to damage. Water retained in cells, freezing and swelling, and thawing and refreezing causes structural damage to plants. Cells burst and irreparably damage tissues.

Sun and Heat Tolerance
Severe cold as well as unrelenting heat, can damage plant tissues. With too much sun and heat, blossoms fade and fall, leaves drop, and fruit fails to develop. Even if plants are well-watered, the rate of transpiration (see Chapter 1) often outpaces the ability of the roots to absorb and replace lost moisture. But some plants have found ways to beat the heat.

Why You Should Go Native

The plants best suited to your area are those nature put there. Check with your County Extension Service for ideas and sources. The trick to incorporating native plants is to get rid of any images of perfectly mowed grass surrounded by a neatly trimmed hedge. Wander out into the country and look at how nature arranges plants. A word of caution is necessary here. Not only is it bad manners to go out and lift plants from the wild, in many cases it is downright illegal. Check with your local Audubon Society Chapter or native plant society to determine whether a plant is endangered. Removing endangered plants from the wild is prohibited, and even collecting seeds from such plants may be restricted. In the case of others, you must have permission from a private property owner before digging up desirable natives. You can, however, make note of the plants you want, and gather seeds in the fall. Going native doesn't necessarily mean including only local plants in the landscape. Your hometown surely is unique, but there are other regions throughout the world with similar climateslatitude, altitude, and distance from large bodies of water. Plants from similar zones often grow equally as well in one as in another. For instance, Rugosa roses, native to the Far East, thrive in seaboard towns everywhere. Alpine plants from Switzerland flourish in rock gardens in Minnesota and Oregon. Cacti from Arizona prosper in any dry area. The idea is to use plants found in similar regions.

Nursery Shopping Strategy

The very best way to get top-quality plants from your local garden center or nursery is to get the best service. The people who work there are your most valuable resource. They know the quality of their product, their wholesalers, when the plants arrived, how they were cared for, and any problems that may exist. Do yourself a favor; get to know these folks.

Know When to Shop
Plants arrive at the garden center from the supplier in the best possible condition, given the rigors of shipment. They sometimes go downhill from there. When scouting for plants, call and ask when the store expects to receive their shipment from their best supplier, and show up when the plants arrive. Not only will you get the healthiest possible plants, but you will also get first pick.
You won't get a bargain if you wait for plants to go on sale. If a plant has been sitting on a rack for months, especially if it doesn't receive proper care, then it probably won't amount to much. The best bets among such plants are perennials, but only if the price is really low. If you feel you can bring a plant around, then by all means take a cheap gamble. Otherwise, spend wisely, and buy early.


Signs of a Good Investment
Blossoms are the one feature that attract buyers most readily. Yet seedlings that have been forced into bloom in order to make them more tempting to buyers can actually result in less productive plants in the long run. The stress of life with few roots and a big head slows plant vigor.

Look for compact, vigorous plants that appear healthy. Pass by plants with dead or yellowing leaves or those that have grown leggy. Be wary of unstable stems or plants that look poorly rooted. Well-rooted plants will recover from transplant shock much more quickly than those with poorly developed roots. If you can find plants that are not yet in bloom, consider them first.

When buying perennials always look at the roots, because that is the future of the plant. A healthy root system ensures the plant will live to bloom for years to come.

No matter what type of plant you are buying, look it over thoroughly for any signs of pests or diseases. Never buy sick or infested plants at any price.