Understanding Watering equipment

Watering equipment can be costly, but it may save you in the long run by lowering your water bills or pumping costs. Water containers are for carrying and dispensing water. Stores sell all kinds of expensive watering cans, but you can make cheap imitations. Plastic milk or water jugs are ideal. Punch holes in the bottom, put on the cap, and carry upside-down. Turn them over, and remove the cap to sprinkle water.

Garden hoses carry water from a faucet to its final destination. They vary in length and can be screwed together to cover long distances. Water pressure from the source forces water through the hose to the end. Rubber and vinyl hoses are the most common, and are available in 1/2-inch, 5/8-inch, 3/4-inch, and 1-inch diameters. Rubber lasts the longest and is least prone to kinking and splitting. For most uses a 5/8-inch size is the best buy. Look for hoses with a lifetime guarantee. Hoses go on sale in spring and fall.

Lawn sprinklers attach to a hose and spray water up and out. They are a tremendous improvement over hand watering for the time they save. Water pressure propels the spray in one of several patterns, with some types covering a larger area than others. The cheapest sprinklers cost between $5 and $8 and are small heads with holes punched in them. They rest on the ground and shoot water up over a limited area. These work all right for lawns, but in a border or vegetable garden the spray may be blocked by foliage. Rotating and pulse-jet sprinklers have moving parts that deliver an even spray. Impulse-jet types are the most versatile, because you can adjust them to water a range of patterns, including a full circle. Oscillating sprinklers have a rocking bar that sprays water. They are not the best for vegetable plots, flower borders, or landscaping plants, because so much water lands on foliage instead of near the roots. If you must use a sprinkler in these spots, elevate it with a step-ladder or other substitute so the spray lands unobstructed. Look for sales in spring and fall.
Drip irrigation systems deliver water through emitters to individual plants. They are great for putting just the right amount of water where needed, but can be costly to install.

Soaker hoses and porous hoses deliver water along their length either through a series of holes, the soaker hose, or through the porous skin. Use some soaker hoses to water lawns as the holes are large enough to send water spraying upward. Turn them over so the water sprays downward to water vegetables or flowers. These hoses conserve water by putting it only where desired by the gardener. Place one along each garden row, or wind through flower beds and landscaping, to save time moving them around. Attach a garden hose when ready to water. Though a soaker hose is a bigger initial expense than a garden hose or cheap sprinkler, the savings on water can pay for the hoses in a couple of seasons. They also will last indefinitely.

Timers shut the water off at a pre-determined time. Cheap ones simply turn it off after a preset time period, while you can program expensive computer models with a complete watering regime. Both models prevent waste from overwatering, but the less expensive mechanical type is simpler to use and should be sufficient for almost anyone.

Water gauges measure how much water lands at a given spot. Save money by placing an empty jar or can in areas you want to measure.

Gas- and Electric-Powered Tools for Your Garden

Most power tools constitute a hefty initial investment, which must be worked off over a period of time. They also represent a monetary commitment to run; they require fuel or electricity, maintenance, and, occasionally, repairs. The trade-off is they save time and effort.

Chipper/shredders reduce garden waste by three-quarters or more. They can be a real boon if you are clearing brush, especially if you cannot burn. Chippers and shredders chop branches, twigs, and leaves into a homogenous mix which can be used as mulch. Shredders also can speed up the process of composting. Since the heavy-duty branch-eaters also make short work of leaves, they are the most versatile. Gas-powered models are the fastest and noisiest. Both types can be dangerous. Rototillers cultivate soil. Models range from 1 horsepower, lightweight tiller / cultivators, designed mainly for mechanized weeding, to 14 horsepower tillers, made for breaking new ground. Sharp digging tines rotate and cultivate the soil to depths varying from 4 to 8 inches. Considering that most plant roots penetrate at least 1 foot deep, a rototiller alone cannot prepare the soil deeply enough to accommodate them. The digging tines may be mounted in the front or rear of the machine. Except for the most powerful models, those designed with rear-mounted tines can be difficult to control at tilling depths greater than 3 inches. Rototillers can be dangerous; never buy one without a deadman control. This safety feature stops the machine and the turning tines when engaged. Lawn mowers cut grass. It's that simple. You may push, follow a self-propelled mower, or ride in style, but you are still simply cutting grass. The only real difference in cutting grass is how much you sweat, and whether the clippings are dropped, bagged, or mulched. Mulching mowers grind the clippings into tiny pieces that work their way back to the soil level. The tiny clippings provide beneficial mulch and eliminate waste. Self-propelled mowers generally cost at least $100 more than similar push-powered models, and the self-propelled models are twice as likely to need repairs. If your yard is small and level, you can get by with the less expensive push mower. If you have hills or a lot of ground to cover the self-propelled model may be better for you.

Some lawn-mower models have a blade-brake-clutch safety system which allows you to disengage the blade action without shutting down the engine. This is a real plus for moving the machine around when it's not actually cutting, say from the garage to the yard. Another helpful feature is a rear-bagging model, as opposed to a side-bagging one; they tend to be more maneuverable. Rear-wheel-drive machines, not front-wheel-drive models, have better traction. If you have physical limitations or a huge lot, a riding mower or lawn tractor may be necessary. Lawn tractors cost more but have the advantage of various accessories from garden carts to snow blades. They are also slightly less prone to repair jobs than riding mowers. Most lawn tractors can't rival the carpetlike evenness walk-behind mowers leave, and expect to spend more money. Don't even consider a lawn tractor without a deadman control in the seat. With the control, as soon as the driver leaves the seat, the engine stops. Tip: Lawn mowers go on sale after the Fourth of July.

String trimmers cut unruly herbaceous growth from weeds to overgrown grass. There are gas- and electric-powered models, but unless you have enough weeds to warrant the gas type, a good pair of garden shears will work instead. Some trimmers can also edge lawns; turn them so the string spins vertically.

Hedge trimmers are for yards with lots of big hedges. Gas-powered models are easy to use, cordless, and have little vibration. But they are loud and expensive. Electric trimmers are cheaper and more lightweight. Those with reciprocating blades, two blades cutting against each other are the most efficient. For most uses, a 16-inch blade is sufficient.

Leaf blowers move leaves. In a large area, a blower will save effort and time over a rake. There are hand-carried, back-pack, and push types, some with attachments. They are loud and expensive, and they take all the fun out of raking leaves.

Understanding Gardening Tools

These are the fundamental tools necessary for gardening. They do not contribute to air or noise pollution, cost virtually nothing to operate, and require little cleaning and maintenance. Yet with a little people-power, these tools perform any task in the garden.

Cultivating tools primarily move around soil. They have a metal head and wooden, metal, or plastic handle. Look for carbon steel or stainless steel heads. If kept clean and dry between uses, carbon steel should not rust. Stainless steel is more expensive, but is rust-proof and makes work easier as soil falls away from it. Coatings on blades can wear off over time, making them a questionable expenditure. Wooden handles, such as hickory, are generally strong, and unlike metal or plastic, can be replaced if broken. Buy a handle that is of a comfortable length for you to use.

Forks loosen soil, cultivate, move bulky materials, such as weed piles and manure, and they lift root crops. In short, forks are versatile. Most forks have four, sturdy, metal prongs attached to a wooden or metal shaft. The best quality forks are those with the prongs and neck forged from a single piece of metal. Avoid forks pieced together or welded. Short-handled hand forks lift up plants and work well for knee-level weeding.

Hoes cultivate, weed, and form seed rows. They may have long or short handles with a blade attached. There are several types of hoes with specific uses. A Dutch hoe or scuffle hoe works well to remove small, surface weeds around plants. A combination hoe has prongs on one side for breaking up soil and a blade on the other for chopping or moving around soil. A triangular hoe creates V-shaped furrows. Hand hoes have short handles and small, narrow blades for cultivating between closely spaced plants.

Rakes create an even and level soil surface as well as rake debris. A forged metal, toothed head, attached to a wooden or metal handle, pulls material. Those with the most teeth work the fastest, because they cover more ground each time you rake. Flathead rakes last longer than bow-head types. Lawn rakes compared to cultivating rakes, are lightweight, and have flexible tines designed to move light debris such as leaves or mown grass.

Spades and shovels dig and turn soil. Splurge on a stainless steel one if you can, as it takes a lot of strain out of digging. A rounded spade turns over soil, while a pointed shovel digs into the ground as well.

Trowels are mini-shovels, great for digging small transplanting holes. They are especially handy for working in containers.

Other cultivating tools include pronged and tooth-wheeled models. The prongs or teeth break up the soil, but work well only after the soil has already been cultivated, and only to a shallow depth.

Pruning tools cut woody growth. Pruning is necessary to keep many plants in their prime . Short- or long-handled pruners, saws, and knives are examples of hand-held pruning tools.
Pruners work like scissors to snip branches. Buy pruners that give a clean, crisp cut. Ragged edges can leave plants open to infection. Get the best-quality stainless- or carbon-steel blade you can afford. Bypass pruners are the most versatile. Anvil pruners, unless kept very sharp, crush stems. Coated grips are worth the expense; they are more comfortable to use than bare steel.

Loppers are long-handled pruners used to cut branches in hard-to-reach places. The leverage created by the long handles makes cutting small branches a snap, and the shears can handle limbs 2 inches thick or more.

Tree pruners cut high branches. They work on a lever system, and some models can extend your reach up to 15 feet high. For most jobs though, a ladder and loppers will suffice.

Saws prune heavy branches. Of the several types available, a Grecian saw is one of the most versatile. It has a curved handle and teeth designed to cut only as you pull towards youself, making it easier to use in tight spaces. Bow saws work quickly, but are unwieldy to use in close quarters.

Knives have many uses in the garden. Use them for pruning, taking cuttings, grafting, and harvesting. A good pocket knife with a sharp, carbon-steel blade is a fine investment.

Shears can trim hedges, snip grass, cut back perennials, or create topiary masterpieces. Look for those with straight, sharp blades on sturdy wooden handles.

Lawn-care tools control where and how your grass grows.

Edgers make a clean cut at the border where grass meets another ground cover, such as pavement or planting beds. A sharp, half-moon-shaped head slices away sod. A sharp spade or garden knife does the same job.

Hand-held weeders such as ball weeders or a notched asparagus knife are useful for popping weeds out of the lawn without tearing up the turf.

Push-reel mowers may be a relic whose time has returned. Rotating blades cut grass evenly and provide a workout at the same time. Compared to motorized models, they are cheap to purchase, and they don't have any operating costs, except for occasionally sharpening the blades. Push-reel mowers also don't emit pollutants from burning fuel.

Spreaders apply fertilizer to lawns. There is a shoulder-carried version in which you turn a crank to spin granules out onto the lawn. But the more useful option is a hopper on wheels that you push. Most let you adjust the rate of application to your needs.

Save water through Planning

Most of us have more water than we know what to do with. Even in and regions there are occasional deluges of rain. Rainbarrels are not a new idea, but still a useful one. Position clean, empty barrels beneath downspouts or up on blocks around the garden. Barrels, positioned a few inches above the ground, can incorporate spigots and drip tubing for a cheap, gravity-flow irrigation system. A barrel positioned high above the ground creates strong water pressure, and far-flowing water. This time-honored method is excellent for flower or vegetable gardens.

Lawns are water hogs. They also consume their share of fertilizer, mowing time, and expense. Compared to native landscaping or a xeriscaped yard they are a ludicrous luxury. (Xeriscaping is the landscaping art of combining drought-tolerant plants, garden design, and water-conserving tactics to create a low-maintenance landscape.)

Consider reducing water and other bills by creating a smaller lawn. You may even find that by enlisting the services of a paid professional landscaper, you could save buckets of money. Or try gradually replacing some of the grass with less thirsty landscape plants.

Be aware of which plants require the most water. Group them together so you don't waste water on plants that don't need it. Plants such as rhododendrons, azaleas, and ferns need more water than cacti. Also, if your yard has a naturally moist microclimate, put the water hogs there, not on the driest point of the property. Consider landscape points of interest that doesn't require water, such as a dry creek-bed of rock. Make it appear wet by varnishing the rocks. Position sprinklers to avoid watering sidewalks, streets, decks, and other structures; they won't grow.

Water Loss Means We All Lose

In a perfect world every drop of water you put on your plants would run straight to the roots and would be used immediately by the plant. But we have to deal with water loss. Knowing how to reduce it saves water and money.

Moisture is lost from the soil in several ways, but you can cut these losses. By incorporating lots of humus into the soil, you will lessen the amount of water that percolates through the soil and out of reach. Humus is a water magnet. A lot of water is also lost through evaporation from the soil surface. Thanks to capillary action through the soil, which draws water up from below, evaporation can deplete water from deep in the ground. Keeping the soil surface covered with mulch (see pages 109111) protects against this. Another line of defense against evaporation is to get less of the soil surface wet in the first place. This means replacing a sprinkler with a drip system, soaker hose, or individual water containers for landscape or large vegetable plants. Finally, transpiration, the way in which plants metabolize water, can steal amazing quantities of water from your soil. One large shade tree on a hot sum mer day can transpire several hundred gallons of water. Misting plants on hot, dry days helps limit the amount transpired and reduces plant stress.

As mentioned, air evaporation is also a major water waster if you use an overhead sprinkler. Water early in the morning or at night for the least water loss. If you want to keep your water bill down, never water during hot, windy weather.

How Much Water Is Just Right?

While there is no one answer to the question of how much water is just right for all gardens, there are some useful general guidelines. The most efficient and cost-effective way to water any plant is to fill the entire root zone with water, and let the soil become almost dry be fore the next watering. The amount of dryness depends on the plant. Let the top 2 or 3 inches dry out for most established plants. Let the soil around a large tree dry down several inches, but keep new or tiny plants moist to the top inch or so of soil.

Water most plants deeply and infrequently. When using a sprinkler, measure how many inches of water you apply by setting jars at intervals along sprinkler pathways. This will also tell you if the sprinkler gives even coverage.

Remember soil type affects how much water is necessary. Water sandy soils more frequently than clay soil. To make sure you are delivering enough water to where it is needed, use a soil probe or shovel before you water to determine the extent of dryness. Repeat the process after watering to see how deeply the water has penetrated into the soil.

Lawns. Use an overhead sprinkler. Water to a depth of at least 6 inches as soon as grass fails to spring up after walking on it. Avoid frequent, shallow waterings as they lead to shallow roots, which are far more susceptible to heat or drought. Aeration, or removal of soil plugs, helps send water to the root zone. Renting an aerator every other year or so also will help to reduce thatch build-up and combat compaction.

Vegetables, Bedding Plants, and Perennials. Water 6 to 12 inches deep every four to ten days for established plants. Don't wait for plants to wilt before the next watering. Wilting slows growth and reduces crop yields.

Soaker hoses or drip irrigation are efficient ways to water here. They can save up to 60 percent of the water used by a sprinkler. Place mulch over the hose to prevent evaporation.

A cheap version of drip irrigation is container watering. Bury a container, such as a plastic 1-gallon milk jug that has had 2 or 3 holes punched in the bottom, next to or between individual plants. Keep the containers filled with water and allow them to seep water directly into plant root zones. Tailor the size of the container to the size of the plant.

Sprinklers are not the best for vegetable gardens because they waste a vast amount of water. More water lands on the leaves, where it evaporates, than anywhere else. Hand watering is as much a waste of time as it is water. Unless you stand there for a few hours with a water wand, you cannot wet the soil deeply enough to do a worthwhile job.

Cultivate unmulched soil to increase water absorption. Crusted soil forms a barrier against water penetration.
Trees, Shrubs, and Landscape Plants. Water throughout the drip line of plants for the most efficient intake of water. Soaker hoses (see page 31) allow you to wind around individual plants. They are great for such shrubs as roses that are susceptible to moisture-loving disease organisms. Since no water rests on the leaves the diseases can't establish their spores. To allow water to slowly seep down into the soil, mound a ridge of soil around the outside of the drip line to form a basin and fill with water. Remove this soil during rainy weather to prevent waterlogged roots.

Plants on landscape berms. Check and water more frequently since they have more exposed soil from which water may evaporate.

New woody transplants. Water thoroughly both the nursery soil within the root ball and the native soil surrounding it. Failure to do so may prevent the roots from venturing into the surrounding soil, which can eventually kill the plant. Dead plants are an investment wasted.

Plants in containers. Water as soon as the surface feels dry. Keep a close eye on thirsty plants such as fuschias, which often need watering once or twice daily in hot, dry weather.

Watering your plants

If you still use a lawn sprinkler to water a vegetable garden or landscape planting, or if you use an overhead watering system on hot, windy days you are wasting water. The idea of watering is to deliver an adequate amount of water to plant roots, no more, no less, and nowhere else.

There are several factors that determine how much water you need to apply and the best method of application. For starters, rainfall is a factor. No matter what plants you are watering in what type of soil, the amount of watering necessary depends on how much nature already supplies.

Another factor is the soil type. Remember that sandy soils drain quickly and that clay holds moisture for a longer period of time. These are functions of how the water moves through the soil, which affects its availability to plant roots. One inch of water applied in sandy soil will percolate down 12 inches. In good loam 1 inch of water will go down 6 to 10 inches, and in clay it will penetrate about 4 or 5 inches. Once water has filtered down beneath plant root zones it is effectively gone.

Finally, consider the plants you are watering. Some plants need much more water than others. New plants, from seeded lawns to bedding transplants and burlap-balled shrubs, require lots of frequent watering to establish their roots. On the other hand, established native plants need very little rainfall supplementation; they have naturally adapted to the area. Some plants, such as madrona, flannel bush, and western dogwood, suffer if watered in the summer.