Rotate Crops

Many diseases and soilborne insects that attack plants remain in the soil even after you harvest the crop. They wait there to reinfest susceptible plants. If you plant the same crop or a closely related one in that site a disease or insect will probably attack the new planting. Prevent this needless loss by rotating your crops each year. The practice costs nothing and could save a lot.

Crop rotation requires only a little planning. If you plant tomatoes in one bed this year, then don't plant tomatoes or a related crop in the same bed for the next two years. If possible, it is best to let at least three years pass before planting where the same or related crop grew before.

Integrate and Interplant

It is the nature of disease organisms and pests to take the easiest route. What could be easier than moving down a row of your favorite host plants and attacking one after the other of them? Organic gardeners have known for generations a way to confound many pests, especially those that prefer one particular crop over others, and it doesn't cost a cent.

Interplanting mixing and mingling different species of plants in a garden bordereffectively confounds many types of pests. It slows the progression of diseases when the plant next to an infected one is not susceptible to the disease-causing organism. For pests, the turbulent scene of mixed textures, colors, and odors, jams their plant-seeking radar.

Weed out the Competition

The first line of defense is to kick the competition when it's down. Don't allow weeds to get a foothold. Not only are they unsightly, weeds are real enemies of any gardener. They rob the soil of water and nutrients meant for cultivated plants. Many harbor diseases or serve as alternate hosts for pests. If allowed to grow, they may shade plants from sunlight, block air circulation around foliage, or crowd out crops entirely.

Rather than battle established weeds and the problems they create, get them before they get you. One tactic is to spray a pre-emergent herbicide, which kills weeds before they emerge. Another weed combatant is a heavy, water-permeable fabric that acts as a weed mat, laid out between landscape plants. It physically blocks weeds from sprouting. It's not cheap, but the time and money you save over other forms of fighting weeds may make it a good choice for your garden. A similar tactic is to put down a thick layer of mulch.

Young weeds are easy to scrape away with a hoe. Cultivate carefully around tender, young plants to avoid damaging roots. Use a scuffle hoe or toothed-wheeled weeder to tear out weeds while they are still small. When all else fails, get down on your knees and yank up weeds by their roots. It's good exercise and a well-weeded patch leaves any gardener with a real sense of accomplishment.

A Healthy Environment

So much of the information already discussed contributes to your plants' overall health. The best site, proper planting, and transplanting, using resistant varieties, adequate watering, drainage, and nutritional support all help keep plants in optimum condition. Healthy plants have an edge. They are less susceptible to physical stress, attack by disease, or infestation of pests. In fact, studies show insects recognize and prefer ailing plants.

The best way to manage your garden is to keep a watchful eye on plants. Take time to notice any which may be particularly susceptible to problems. Watch for puddling after rainthis signals poor drainage which could suffocate roots. Look for unusual growth patterns, spots on leaves or stems, curling leaves, or anything that looks out of the ordinary. Glance around the plants for any evidence of pests, but realize that unless they are causing actual damage you may not need to take any action.

Make sure plants are not overcrowded; occasionally thin or divide them as necessary. This is especially important for good air circulation around perennials and shrubs. Damp, stagnant air trapped near foliage often leads to disease.

Animal droppings for compost

Many gardeners buy compost starters to get a pile fired up. These are basically high-nitrogen products that may or may not work, depending on what else is in your pile. Fresh green weeds, with a little soil clinging to their roots, or a shovelful of soil or compost, tossed at intervals into the pile will suffice. But for a great, cheap pile activator, try alfalfa. Toss in handfuls from bales (old or rained-on bales are the cheapest) or use an alfalfa meal product. Horse feed, rabbit food pellets, even some brands of cat litter, are almost pure alfalfa meal.

Pets, except dogs and cats, can contribute significantly to the nitrogen content of a compost pile, some will even do the work of turning
If you live in an area where it is possible, and you like animals, keep a pet rabbit or some chickens. Rabbit waste, collected in a bucket beneath the hutch, is high in nitrogen, a fact attested to by the urea odor. But emptied routinely into the compost pile, you avoid the odor, while adding its riches to the pile.
Chickens are even better than bunnies. Toss your compost materials into an enclosed chicken run and let them turn it all into a homogenized, highly nutritious blend. Every few weeks rake out the run and add to the compost pile. Chickens will also produce fresh eggs for breakfast, and they love to eat garden bugs!

Ready, Set, Compost!

You can make composting as easy and cheap as that leaf-dropping tree. All you need are the ingredients and as much time as you are willing to devote to the project.

For the sake of appearances, or ease of handling, you may wish to enclose the pile in a bin. My favorite siding for this job is a 10- to 12 1/2-foot length of 48-inch-wide hardware cloth, 1/2- by 1-inch mesh. It is sturdy enough to be freestanding, forms a circle of perfect dimensions for composting, and won't leak any small pieces of the pile. Bend over a few of the wires on one edge to form hooks to attach it to the other edge in a cylinder. It's cheap, easy to use, lasts forever, and stores almost anywhere. Lumber scraps and chicken wire, salvaged concrete blocks, or bales of straw arranged together will also serve the purpose.

The dimensions of the pile affect how quickly it breaks down. Research has determined that the pile must be at least 3 feet high by 3 feet across in order to have enough mass to retain the heat generated in composting. As the microbes work, temperatures can reach 140°F inside the pile. These high temperatures kill weed seeds and disease organisms. Piles about 4 feet by 4 feet will work fine, but piles much larger than 5 feet around take a lot of work to keep actively composting. Larger

piles require constant turning to keep oxygen supplied to those busy microbes.

There are no hard and fast rules for building a compost pile. Gardeners generally recommend layering nitrogen materials and carbon materials with a bit of soil, with finished compost or activator sprinkled throughout the pile as it is built. The first time you turn the pile this neat arrangement is shot. The most convenient way to compost is to toss in whatever is available at the moment. Weeds go in when you pull them, soil, and all. Toss in eggshells, coffee grounds, and melon rinds after breakfast. Throw cornstalks on the pile at the end of summer.

You can add many items whole to the compost pile, and they will degrade fine. But larger items, such as cornstalks, hedge trimmings, and spent broccoli plants, will break down much more quickly if chopped into smaller pieces first. When they are cut into pieces there is much more surface area on which the microbes can work. Reduce large pieces by running over a shallow pile of them with a lawn mower, hacking with an ax, or throwing them in a chipper/shredder.

Keep the pile moist as you add materials to it. An occasional sprinkling with the garden hose provides the microbes with water they need to survive. Don't let piles get dripping wet, however, as precious plant nutrients will leach out. Cover your pile during rainy weather or if it is within sprinkler range.

Turning the pile provides aerobic conditions for you and the pile. You get the exercise, and the pile gets a fresh supply of oxygen for those hard-working microbes. If using a bin, disassemble it, grab a fork, and start working. Turn the outsides of the old pile into the center so they will be exposed to microbial action. Sprinkle the pile with water intermittently as you turn it. The more frequently you turn the pile, the more quickly the compost will decompose.

What Does It Take to Make Compost?

The good news is that anybody can make compost. Actually, compost will make itself without anybody. Consider a maple tree near a fence line. Each year it sheds its leaves, and some of those leaves are blown against the fence where they pile up. In time, the bottom layer of those leaves is no longer recognizable as leaves, but transformed into a dark, sweet-smelling, crumbly soil.
All organic matter rots. You can speed up the process by combining different types of matter, ventilating the mix to add oxygen, and keeping it moist. When you control the circumstances, the process speeds up considerably. You can make compost in weeks, not years.

In terms of composting, gardeners consider organic matter primarily a carbon-based material or a nitrogen-based material. Microbes burn approximately one part of nitrogen for every twenty-five parts of carbon they digest. So you need at least one part of nitrogen material for every twenty-five parts of carbon material. More nitrogen material is fine if you have it. Materials high in nitrogen, such as alfalfa meal, blood meal, or urea, act as pile activators by jump-starting the microbes into action. Which materials are nitrogen and which are carbon? In general the easiest way to tell is that materials higher in nitrogen are green and those higher in carbon are brown. Other ingredients add phosphorus, potassium, and trace minerals. Egg shells, wood ashes, banana skins, melon rinds, orange peels, stale bread, apple peels, potato skins, pea pods, and tea leaves are great for composting.

There are a few things that, although they are organic matter, do not belong in a garden compost pile. Leave the following out of the compost pile:

• Weeds that have gone to seed. The seeds may survive.
• Obviously diseased or insect-infested material.
• Any meat, grease, or fat. It stinks and attracts vermin.
• Cat and dog feces, which may transfer parasites to the garden.
• Grass clippings or weeds that have been treated with weed killers. Chemicals may persist and poison the garden.
• Pine needles or large branches. They don't harm the pile but take years to decompose.